NASCAR block is in!
#1
NASCAR block is in!
Well it's been awhile since I posted but I just got my HP block in from Greg Godon last week! Now to order a crank from Moldex or Bryant! Anyone have any Imput on the 2 manufacturers? Just sold a Harley to finance this so I gotta order it soon! Just gotta figure out the specs though!
#5
Was reading in my olds in motion series and they noted that 2.750-3.00 inch mains were typically used for superspeedways! This is an AJ Foyt block that has 2.75 inch mains and was unused although the Foyt engine shop did about $6500.00 in machine work prep!
#8
Yup. All you need now is a set of Batten heads and a Victor intake.
#9
No I'm not sure what I'll run for final displacement. I've been told keep it near 400 but I also know in Bill Trovatos book he says go big! It will be procharged. I'm not sure on heads either. I hear wenzler heads are good but finding a set of battens that aren't abused is gotta be harder than finding an hp block!
#10
Any thoughts on crank manufacturer or final displacement? I'm thinking 434 so I could bore it again if I need to do a rebuild. Also oldsmobiledave brings a good point! Which heads do I use? Goal is 800-1200hp with boost. Also have nitrous but not sure I want that in the equation.
#11
Any thoughts on crank manufacturer or final displacement? I'm thinking 434 so I could bore it again if I need to do a rebuild. Also oldsmobiledave brings a good point! Which heads do I use? Goal is 800-1200hp with boost. Also have nitrous but not sure I want that in the equation.
I wouldn't be hell bent on doing the most displacement. Things to consider are wall thickness after boring and your final rod ratio/piston height. Don't stuff the longest stroke possible in it just to maximize displacement. You'll need a shorter rod and/or piston in order to do so. And make sure you have ample wall thickness to facilitate good ring seal under boost.
Depending on how the bores check out I'd consider something around a 426 configured like this;
3.875 stroke
4.185 bore
That would enable you to use an off the shelf piston, (1.175cd) with a ring pack low enough for boost but not necessarily in the oil ring.
On top of that a readily available 6.200 H beam will round out the combo. You'd have a reasonable rod ratio of 1.6.
Jmo
Let me know when you're ready for a cam. Maybe I can help there.
Best of luck in your project!!
Last edited by cutlassefi; March 31st, 2014 at 02:59 PM.
#12
Well as far as boost goes I want to be able to keep it Lower for street use and then crank it up for track use hence the 8-1200. I'll be using a f2 procharger most likely along with methanol and occasional nitrous since the car already had it when I bought it! I agree with not going hog wild on stroke but I'm also not to worried on bore thickness with the hp block but it will be sonic checked for sure!
#14
Well as far as boost goes I want to be able to keep it Lower for street use and then crank it up for track use hence the 8-1200. I'll be using a f2 procharger most likely along with methanol and occasional nitrous since the car already had it when I bought it! I agree with not going hog wild on stroke but I'm also not to worried on bore thickness with the hp block but it will be sonic checked for sure!
Make sure whoever bores it does it with a BHJ Bor Tru. That is essentially a raw block. I'll bet the bores aren't in the correct spot.
#16
CNC programs are somewhat flawed because of the reference point used but it is better than the way most do it.
#18
Greg Godon was telling me that Warren Johnson told him that cranks don't make horsepower. Warren stated that whoever had a better turn around time got the nod. I understand it has to hold up and that they both use the best materials I just am curious if anything makes one more likely to get the nod from me!
#20
If you have the setup for 2.75" mains then do that. You'll be ordering a custom crank anyway. I'll bet Ford 351C or similar bearings will fit, or be made to fit. You'll never see a performance difference on the 2.75 vs the 2.50 mains. I wouldn't think twice about using the larger mains, especially with the Hp level you're chasing.
I'm sure more than 1 of the aftermarket crank companies will be able to provide you with the crank you need.
Thanks.
I'm sure more than 1 of the aftermarket crank companies will be able to provide you with the crank you need.
Thanks.
#22
#23
Sorry I was talking about the specs for the crank not the manufacturer. I started this thread to see who might have had experience with moldex or Bryant. I just was hoping I could get info to help me choose who I want to make the crank after I get the specs from BTR.
Cutlassefi you bring up valid points and I'll ask Bill why I should or shouldn't just go with the 2.75 inch main. Hell with a ton of boost and nitrous I dought I'll notice a loss of minute horsepower from .25 inches more of bearing drag!
Cutlassefi you bring up valid points and I'll ask Bill why I should or shouldn't just go with the 2.75 inch main. Hell with a ton of boost and nitrous I dought I'll notice a loss of minute horsepower from .25 inches more of bearing drag!
#25
I just was hoping I could get info to help me choose who I want to make the crank after I get the specs from BTR.
Gotcha.
Cutlassefi you bring up valid points and I'll ask Bill why I should or shouldn't just go with the 2.75 inch main. Hell with a ton of boost and nitrous I doubt I'll notice a loss of minute horsepower from .25 inches more of bearing drag!
Gotcha.
Cutlassefi you bring up valid points and I'll ask Bill why I should or shouldn't just go with the 2.75 inch main. Hell with a ton of boost and nitrous I doubt I'll notice a loss of minute horsepower from .25 inches more of bearing drag!
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