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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 07:43 PM
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My Build

Month 13 - Engine build Well......I've been cleaning my garage for the past 2 weeks In preparation for my dust free build. As a recap.....I got my motor disassembled w/ no main caps and assembly bolts.....Thanks Kevin for all the bolts....big help
Ended up using a reputable shop in Glen Burnie, MD....Ellison's Machine Shop....Ken Ellison....Great guy....He was the only one I could find that could match the caps I bought on ebay and line bore them to match the block Well to keep this post short, I would love for you guy's to review my build specs to make sure I got all the bases covered....I only won't to do this once.......please chime in Don, Mark, Joe, Capt jim, and many more...........I know that you guy's could probably do this with your eye's closed
Thanks again for your help!!!
Eric M
see below
VVVVVVV
Old Aug 19, 2015 | 07:45 PM
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Machine work Well, below is a copy of machine work done....Ken said to always double ck all clearances....so I'll be measuring everything I can with a micrometer and a feeler gauge....crank journals(cut 10), bearing thickness(20) and crank(10)....connecting rods(10), bearings(20) and crank(10) all this is a guess...haven't measured yet, but he had me buy 20 bearings
To review my build overall....1970 350 30 over, SP 2320 flat tops, comp xe268 cam, comp 1441 roller tips, double roller chain, stock intake, carb and dual exhaust....th350 built for tight shift, 2500 stall....342 posi rear.....my goal has always been a nice street/driver with some extra getup that can run fine on pump gas 9.5 cr with 68cc heads and felpro gaskets....anyway more to follow below
Thanks again for your input
Eric M
VVVVV
Attached Files ellison0001.pdf (870.2 KB, 4 views
Old Aug 19, 2015 | 07:47 PM
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Questions on engine build Below is my cart at Summit....the last purchase for my build... all except push rods....Ken said to measure after assembly....which brings me to my ?'s, why would Summit sell the 1441 kit with rods? Are they the stock length?....the way I see it, is with resurface of block and heads...no milling for comp....should be close to stock length with the thicker felpro gaskets?Also this kit makes it adjustable? This sucks, cause I'd love to seal her up this weekend...without having to wait for rods
On piston clearance SP says to tight? Why don't they correct this? Ken said 25 for cast and 35 for forged.....is this enough? Haven't measured yet?
Heads were cut with 442 valves and I said something about more valve guide clearance on centers? he didn't replace and said they are good?
If I understand it right....I need to drill an 1/8" hole in the new replacement rear galley plug to lube dist gear?
My friend Steve is also helping with my build ...he also hasn't done a motor in over 30 yrs and never has done an olds, but a good reader
Last ? , do I need to measure piston to deck clearance or am I good with no milling?


Thanks again for your guidance!!
Eric M

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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 07:18 PM
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You need the 2321 5.8 cc dished forged pistons or you will 10 to 1+.
Old Aug 20, 2015 | 07:42 PM
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the plug to lube the distributor gear should have .040 or .060 hole, sorry i cant remember which, but 1/8 is way too big. I think its .060, maybe someone will chime in on that.
Old Aug 21, 2015 | 06:37 AM
  #6  
olds 307 and 403's Avatar
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A lot of guys prefer .004" minimum or scufing and over heating can occur. Unless the pistons Mark has suggested to Mahle come to be, we will only have the ancient Speed Pro offering that will keep compression in the mid 9's with early heads.

Last edited by olds 307 and 403; Aug 23, 2015 at 06:20 AM.
Old Aug 21, 2015 | 05:55 PM
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.040 on the rear galley plug. And go with what Christian said, the L2321, not the L2320 or your compression will be too high for pump gas. So much for your guy knowing what he's doing. Sorry but apparently even simple math isn't his strong suit.
And is the crank cut .010 under or .020 under, you mention both.

Last edited by cutlassefi; Aug 21, 2015 at 05:59 PM.
Old Aug 21, 2015 | 07:44 PM
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So is this wrong calc's.....this is what I based my build on and I already purchased the 2320's......they are ready to install
Thanks for all the replies
Any thing else to know/Do during assembly


Eric M


SpeedProCR_zps0bdee62a.png
Old Aug 21, 2015 | 07:55 PM
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Yes Mark, my crank is cut 20 under.....
Thanks for the reply to my PM......I put a link in it to my car build thread, where I also posted these ?'s...just forgot to mention...I got no response there....so I figured I better put it here
I keep going back to Adams thread (cam selection needed) this is where Don posted this calc.....I also see where you talk about stroke and rod lengths....let me know what to measure and I'll do it Sun.....gotta work 2maro.....and maybe you can recalc for me?
Thanks for your time
Eric M
Also we never cc'd my heads....maybe I should?
Old Aug 23, 2015 | 06:31 AM
  #10  
olds 307 and 403's Avatar
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The KB calculator gets 9.8 to 1 with 68cc chambers with the pistons .025" in the hole. I believe the .030" number may be high if any amount is removed from your deck. I believe the cheap Felpro head gasket is .041" thick with a 4.230" bore opening. Also factor in the amount of material removed to square the block and heads, could push you well over 9.6 to 1. CC your heads and you will need to know where the pistons sit as well in the block.
Old Aug 26, 2015 | 08:40 PM
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Thanks 307(you got a Name?)
I measured my clearances tonight.......he cut them 25...So I guess I have redone? Also noticed that all he did to my deck was wire it...so the only milling was to resurface heads (.000???) Also Mark suggests in another thread...the actual stroke and reconditioned rod lengths are shorter than factory specs? Which will reduce my CR and I haven't CC'd my heads yet....but will this weekend.
Thanks again
Eric M
Old Aug 26, 2015 | 09:08 PM
  #12  
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My name is Christian Rae. CC the heads and if the pistons sit .030" in the hole you may be fine. Hard to tell until final mock up. 9 to 1 with the dished pistons is an easier fix. Expensive Cometic head gaskets is the only way to decrease compression.
Old Aug 30, 2015 | 07:55 AM
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FWIW- my 5.8cc pistons sat .025 in the hole after a .020 crank cut with stock rods. Your heads may come in around the 66cc range at which point, as Christian said- you'll be up to high. Even at 9.4:1 static I still have spent a lot of time tuning to avoid early detonation- today's gas is sh*t and the difference between 9.5-9.6 is minimal in terms of power but major in terms of detonation potential.

You 100% need to CC those heads. They can be anywhere from 64-69cc. I was shooting for 9.8 at the beginning of my build and I can say I'm very happy I stayed more conservative.
Old Aug 30, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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Thanks Christian and Adam.....I ordered a 100ml burette and will measure cc's when I get it? In the meantime I started to measure everything and the 1st was piston clearance.......Dick Miller responded back with .040 (forty thousandth's) and of coarse my machinists bored my block just .025......so will have to have redone Also I'm going to temp install crank and piston to ck deck clearance? I'll post new calcs once I'm done?
Thanks again for your time!
Eric M
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