Ok, had the carb rebuilt on my 1984 Olds Cutlass -3.8l v6 . Ran great to get it home. Went to start it next day, and did the same thing that brought me to replacing the carb. Which was tried to fire but unless I was spraying a can of carb spray in it , then it shuts down. So, I change the fuel pump -which I just changed 3 years ago. Im at a loss. It did sit for almost a year after the cab was redone. Friend of mine said I should change it to an electric and bypass the mechanical all together. I dont even know where to start with that idea. As far as, which one to get for that engine, if it would be better, etc. Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

Make sure your problem is the carburetor before you do a swap. Check all of those vacuum hoses.

Here's a thread I found with a quick Google search and @joe_padavano actually replies in it. Or a guy posing as him.

https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/c...drajet.217487/

 

I hate it when people do that.

Seriously, the dual jet on that G-body is computer controlled. There are about a bazillion failure modes that can cause it to run poorly. Most of them are easy to fix. The problem is that you can't just bolt a new carb on and expect it to run right. There is a very detailed adjustment process in the Chassis Service Manual that MUST be followed EXACTLY to dial the carb in on the specific engine. Failure to follow this adjustment process will just result in wasted time and money. The computer system controls the distributor as well as the carb, so bypassing it causes all kinds of problems unless you replace both the carb and distributor with non-computerized versions. They you have to dial those in for your specific application, including carb jetting and distributor mechanical and vacuum advance curves. For a stock vehicle, simply getting the original carb adjusted correctly is a much smarter way to go.

 

So what do you suggest I do first? As far as process of elimination....

 

Well, diagnosis 101 comes to mind. If the car won't start without starting fluid, either the accelerator pump isn't working or the choke isn't working. If you look down the carb while moving the throttle, does fuel squirt out into the bores? When the car is cold, if you pump the accelerator once, does the choke close?

 

Purchase & own an original paperback OEM version of the 1984 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual (CSM). That's your beginning point. It's essential you own this manual - that's your very first jumping off point. You're quite fortunate (at the moment) because there's someone on eBay selling the entire set of original OEM paperback 1984 Oldsmobile manuals. Buy them before they're gone.

1984 OLDSMOBILE CHASSIS AND ELECTRICAL SERVICE SHOP MANUALS CUTLASS Supreme

 

So I got frustrated, went out there pumped 3 times and it turned right over and stayed running. It will still start right up. But I am smelling some strong gas fumes

 

Read Post #3 & Post #6...again.

 

Just bought the listing! Thanks !