If feels good moving forward again but it will still be baby steps with the way the inflation is. I seen what you and Mark were saying about .080 or .090 to get them around 65 or 64 cc or so. Is the school of thought to remove the same amount off the intake so it matches up? I will be talking to my machinist after Xmas.

 

I believe a bit extra is needed off the intake face, hopefully Mark will chime in. If the machine shop is assembling it, they will know if it doesn't fit and cut accordingly. Yeah, hear you on inflation and the exchange is murder. You got a bit more cam than mine, it should turn out pretty nice.

 

I went off ARP site and found the shortest 7/16" by 7/16" rocker arm stud off Amazon. I went with ARP 135-7101 off Amazon Canada there are a few with similar specs.

 

Wouldn't it make sense to just order all the correct parts from Cutlassefi and be done with it ?

 

Not a bad suggestion but Mark is a one man show and sometimes it takes time to get parts from him. He isn't 20 and has many irons in the fire. Plus Dave is probably buying a couple of things here and there, as he can afford them, until all parts are accumulated. Remember his car won't be hitting the road till April, he has time.

 

Like you eluded to, Mark is very busy, I mentioned it to him on fb but he must have forgot, I can get the small things, I just want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.

 

Yeah sorry guys, I've been tied up with some Dyno starter issues and finalizing the Stroker small block build I posted a few weeks ago, along with my other stuff.
Dave, let me know if you still need help. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the offer, I can get that small stuff, if those parts I posted above are correct lol. Mark I hope my buddy called you, I would love to see that build

 

Copy and paste of a message from comp............ I'd recommend going with our beehive spring for that engine. 26995-16. They can be set at 1.700 or better at 1.650. That will keep you a little tighter on coil bind. Your machinist will sort that out for you.




I dont even see 300 lbs of pressure on the specs, cannot be the right ones.

 

Beehive springs do not require the extreme pressures to avoid valve float.
The retainers are smaller, thus lighter. In addition, the beehive design discourages "harmonics".
And to think, Oldsmobile "invented" and first used them in 1958.
Unfortunately, they were dropped when the "second generation" engine was developed after 1964.

 

Thanks so much, love those facts, had nl idea olds invented that so long ago

 

I Just picked up my Speedmaster heads from the Machine shop that I bought LAST year during the 30% off sale (he only took 3 days to mill/setup though). I had mine cut to achieve 64cc combustion chambers and had him do a Valve Job (using the Speedmaster SS Valves) and set the Valve Springs to 115lbs Open since that's what Lunati gave me for a spec with my roller cam (this included cutting the spring pockets) I'm using these springs: Trick Flow® by PAC Racing Dual Valve Springs TFS-16315-16 with Trick Flow® Steel Valve Spring Retainers TFS-51400423 and Comp 648 Valve Locks machine shop supplied the seals (Vition). I chose the TFS/PAC springs over the Edelbrock because they were closer matched in rate to what Lunati recommended AND I believe of higher Quality (Springs are pretty vital) The Machinist did say that 1 head had to be cut .010 more than the other to achieve equal cc! Not the best Quality Control going on over there at Speedmaster.

I'm reusing these parts from another set of heads: Crower 86050S-16 poly locks ARP studs from Mondello and I'm pretty sure my guideplates are PCE251.1001 all those fit under stuck Valve Covers.

 

Thanks those springs look good, good name as well.

 

Got some more pieces to the puzzle, I will be dropping the heads off to the machinist after the new year, soon as he's done with the top end I hope to get it home and get it ready for some paint, slow build but Im happy. Post 87 updated with part list and costs so far.

 

115 OPEN? I’m sure you meant 115 closed/seat but that’s still not nearly enough, no less than 140 with ANY Hyd roller. And you shouldn’t have had to cut the spring pockets. Lots of choices that’ll go right in on those heads.

 

I thought that to Mark when I read that, but it still looked like the right ones, here the specs

 

Someone needs to double check that.

 

If the trick flow springs wont work, send me a pm please with the cost of the right springs and retainers thanks. I'm going to be seeing my machinist sometime in April to have the heads dropped off to get stripped down and milled so I would like to have everything I need for him. I wish you had a Canadian partner so I could get them ported with your cnc program lol.

 

Email Mark, best way to contact him. Glad you are moving forward, sounds good. The second machine shop said 1 month, 7 months ago to fix the last machine shops screw up on my 358. Everything is so backed up here, Saskatchewan is still booming. Looking forward to see your motor done.

 

Thanks bud, i cant wait to see yours get done as well, the motor should de done by june but there will be still so much left to do before i do the swap. Got to swap the fuel system over to electric and i really dont want drum brakes with the power it should make.

 

Yeah, I hear you, should probably convert to disk up front as well.

 

June 2023 UPDATE:

Some pics of a few parts, Hope to get it back in July but I dont no, I really would like to throw some paint on it and share some pics.

Slowest build in the world going on, over 2 years now lol
Build has gone over the 10K USA cost with no taxs, shipping, Brokerage, Convert to Canadian cost and stuff I have forgoten lol

Machinist to break down Heads, inspect, cut to 65 CC or so
rebuild them as needed, cut the intake to make fit, port match

Key Notes:
Post 87 has the cost breakdown, parts
Post 98 has the cam card

 

Glad you are getting close. Mine in slower, I plan on calling the second machine shop next week, hell maybe this afternoon. It is closing in on a year since what was supposed to take a month or two to fix the first shop **** ups. I will be around $7K without heads myself. I may just polish the #6 chambers, new seals, roller springs, 2004R and do the 3.08 posi swap this Winter. Awesome Dave.

 

Thanks alot, so weird our builds are on such similar paths lol, again I love what you got going on and I'm super pumped every time I check in whats going on with your build. Cant remember if I told you but I called Saunders and he said 750 for the day to dyno and tune whenever Im ready.

 

A dyno sounds awesome and you know the tune will be right that way. I just called the machine shop, still not done supposedly they are doing 20 engines a month for the oil field. I have to go into Saskatoon in August, if not done then, I will take it from there to ABC in Regina, supposedly really good but a long wait, where have I heard that before? Oh yeah, everything to do with my build.

 

Longest motor build in the world is still happening. I went to the machine shop this afternoon since we got sent home from work due to heat stress. Looks like he is almost done, just needs to finish the rockers up on one side and then the intake, he said 2 weeks lol so I will be picking it up in the middle of the month to bring home and get it ready for some paint. He gave me some bad news while I was there, and did confirm he only cut the heads to 70CC so that will make my build only 9.25-1, he knew I wanted 9.5 - 10 range, apparently he added 10CC instead of subtracting that from my piston info. Also looking at the timing chain he had it installed at 12-6 so when the disb gets stabbed in down the road in will need to be aimed at cylinder 6 unless I get him to roll it 180 and then I can use 1. I plan on getting the tanks inc tank, in tank fuel pump, regulator and wiring for it in Nov, probably get the dyno and tune done by end of year and get the new transplant installed in March so I have it all ready to go for next spring, I will keep this updated as I go and believe me I no its slow. I hope Im still good with the cam Mark choose for me but not sure now due to the lower compression.

 

Looking good, your short block was done before mine and my head chambers still need polishing. A few us, including the factory service manual, align the dots at 12 and 6. I still put it in at #1, just put it where you have plenty of room to adjust the distributor. Usually nearly touching the firewall is perfect.

 

Don’t worry about 12 and 6 and 3 and 7 or whatever. Once you’re ready to fire it just bump it over until it pushes your finger out of the number one Cyl. Then put the Dist in and point the rotor at whatever tower you want number 1 to be. You’re making this more difficult than it needs to be.

 

sounds good Mark, I'm looking forward to doing my first one.

 

You can now run 87, which isn't so bad at the current price. The one big advantage is our 91 octane in Saskatchewan is non ethanol, I know it differs, Province to Province. Looks like you guys get 94 octane there, we don't. I assume the machine shop degreed the cam?

 

Yes he did.

 

[QUOTE=skyhigh;1521774]And he told you he put it in “straight up” or “per the cam card”?

 

[QUOTE=cutlassefi;1521780]Good question, I didn't no to ask that, all I asked is if he degreed the cam.

 

[QUOTE=skyhigh;1521791]Ask him. If he tells you he put it in “straight up” then didn’t degree it. Plain and simple.

 

So I went to the shop friday to pick the motor up, shocker, its not done. He needs another week because he said the intake didn't fit after cutting the heads .030, funny I told him that would happen and yet again he not listening to me. So he's getting the intake back Monday and assured me that it will be ready for pickup this Friday Oct the 6th, so much for my June deadline with him. So in thinking about him milling the heads .030 that still seems like its not anywhere near enough? I have read that .006 is about a CC so does that mean its only about 5CC he removed? So his other conversation I had with him is he said the heads CC at 77, all you guys say its more like in the 80's, I think he is not being truthful about the heads being 70CC right now. I'm for sure just grabbing the engine Friday and just getting it home so I can paint it on the weekend. I'm up in the air on getting John Saunders Racing( gonna be the new builder) to strip the heads again and getting them to 67CC or so and cut the intake again when I get the engine there for a dyno and tune. I was told 750.00 for an all day dyno and tune session and Im not sure if I should get the heads re done or just do the dyno session as is, Im really starting to question myself on what to do.

 

If he didn't know that would happen when you mill heads, should he be doing any of your work ? If the heads cc 77 now, what did you tell him you wanted ? 77 cc's would be about what you get when you only remove .030". Find out what they were when he started and what they are now. How far in the hole do the pistons sit ?

 

as cast there 77CC, I told him I wanted them 65CC, He claims he cut them to 70CC with a .030 mill, he also said pistons were 0.13 in the hole. There certainly have been lot of red flags to say the least, between Christians build and mine it seems we found the shops that seem to wing it.

 

Agree, questionable work with huge wait times. I would have got Cutlassefi to build my 358, same price in the end with aluminum heads vs reusing my iron heads. I am probably sending my 403 stroker stuff next fall to wait in line for Mr Robinson(CANADIANOLDS) for the year or so wait.

 

sounds like he's worth the wait, busy for reason I wish I could have done things differently as well, live and learn so they say.

 

May I ask how you are picking these shops ? Are you tearing up yellow page ads out of a phone book. throwing them in a hat and picking one out of a hat ? Do you do a "walk through" of the shop you are considering ? Are you choosing them based on cost ? Are they recommended by "Olds people" ?