I double checked my wiring and everything looks right. I am running a Mallory magnetic breakerless and followed the wiring for it. Any suggestions would be welcome.

 

So the car will run with the key in the start position but when you let go of it & it moves back to run it dies?

 

Yes. I am swapping in a HEI for now having fun getting it in the right spot, had enough for tonight.

 

You seem to be missing 12v to your box and/or your distributor (small red wire) with the key in the on position if it is running only in start.

 

I will check in the key on position for 12 volts. There was 12 volts at that wire when the HEI was there, someone must have added it. I may just add a new wire from the fuse box, maybe I screwed up soldering but a brand new wire won't hurt.

 

The old points ignition system had two power wires, one that provided +12V in the START position and one resistor wire that provided +9V in the RUN position. Either you have not connected that second wire or you have not replaced the resistor wire with copper to ensure full 12V to the MSD.

 

Might try looking where they actually hooked up to the fuse box. Like Joe said above, sounds like your only hooked up to the start circuit.

 

Yah I bypassed that wire, there was 12 volts at it, was running the HEI. I ran a power wire from the ignition terminal in the fuse box, it now runs. I broke in the cam and set the timing then I had to move the distributor to get it to restart again must have set it too low. Hopefully the cam is OK. This friggin car caused me to miss good fishing last night, I still caught 3, 2 were decent but not the 4 and 6 pounders my Wife and Daughter caught while I was fighting with this car.

 

Glad you got it.

 

Anyone have a match? It might not make it to the nearest cliff. This car has fought me all along the way. I seem to have to turn the distributor to get it to start and stay running. I adjusted the choke, it will start and stall with no restart till U touch the distributor. The tach is not working, was before, hooked up to the negative side of the Accel coil. Of course I went to go get gas, now working, one victory! I noticed the gauge was climbing, was going to hook up the fan under hood, controller not working. There was water shooting out of the thermostat housing. I high tailed it home and let it cool. Well I swapped in my RobbMc thermostat housing with different bolts. I noticed the passenger side bolt was totally stripped! An hour plus later after tapping that side to 3/8", fixed. I also checked my rocker arm torque, as there was a tick. Replaced a bunch that I should have swapped in the first place. Still slightly there but could be the crack in the Sanderson header, no wonder I always had an exhaust leak. I patched it with high temp putty but who knows if it held. If the tick remains, I will try all new rocker arms. The replacements were used but much better. I should have left the 260 in there.

 

I have fixed everything, used a hose clamp to fix the gear indicator, realized that my tach wire should go to yellow wire, not the negative coil post. Something killed the battery stone dead, brand new battery. I am hoping it was the cruise wire, I hooked it up to the acessory spade in the fuse box. The module hold down plate was loose, wasn't sitting straight or down far enough and I changed the module. The air gap was huge and I adjusted it as much as possible, still looks big, will pick up a feeler gauge tonight. It won't start, better not be a bad new module.