i was driving my car today to go have lunch with my dad when i had to step on it just a little nothing crazy but after that my car started idling very hard and nearly stalling, i was in traffic a bit and my temp got to a high of around 198-200ish but once i was going it would drop to 187 +/-3 degrees. so i thought it might not like the heat so i pulled over at a park and BSed on my phone for a while and let it cool down but when i started up there wasn't any difference, i got home and pulled out my timing light and its at about 12-13 degrees BTDC where it usually likes to run smoothest, i can't seem to find the problem, it almost feels like it's running on 5 cylinders or something, my whole car shakes nearly to the point of being uncomfortable. i'm waiting for it to cool down enough to pull #1 and check to see if my distributor is on #1 while at TDC. any ideas would be awesome!

 

If your timing hasn't changed, then your chain hasn't jumped.

The distributor runs off the camshaft - If the cam jumps a tooth, then the ignition timing will be off, too.

Maybe you ARE running on too few cylinders... or maybe you got something stuck in a carb. jet... or maybe you've got a problem with your points or condenser or coil...

- Eric

 

should i pull the distributor and make sure its on the right tooth? is there a way to check the carb without pulling it?, also the point, condenser, and coil have all been replaced. should i still reset the points? i'm not used to this points stuff lol im just too broke at the moment to go HEI

 

Unless you've removed the distributor, there is no way it could have skipped to another tooth. It is connected to the camshaft by a gear.

You need to systematically evaluate your engine in order to find the problem.

Start somewhere, and proceed from there.
I would start with the electrical system, as it is easy to check and can also go bad easily.
You have checked you timing. It hasn't moved. That means you didn't jump a tooth on the chain, and means it is likely that your dwell angle hasn't changed markedly.

Next, confirm that the dwell is okay.
Next, check that you don't have any resistance through your points.
Check your spark. Is it weak or strong? If you have a weak spark, you need to check the things that make the spark, like the coil and the condenser.
Check your spark plug wires: pull one wire at a time with the engine idling and a tachometer attached. Each time you pull a plug, the engine should slow down. If it doesn't, then that plug is not firing. If a plug isn't firing, it's probably the wire, but it could also be the distributor cap.

Is this a newly rebuilt engine? If so, it would be a good time to check the compression. If you've wiped a cam lobe, compression will be down in that cylinder if it's an intake valve, and will probably be high if it's an exhaust.

Otherwise, check your fuel system. Is the fuel pump working? The manual tells you how to test it. Is the fuel filter clogged? If these are good, it may be time to pull the carb. and confirm that your needle and seat are good and that your float level is correct. Blow through ALL the galleries and jets with a good carb. cleaner and reassemble.

Keep looking - you'll find the problem sooner or later.

Others will now give you advice on what to do if the exhaust smells too lean, too rich, too oily, or too sweet, and other diagnostic observations that will help. This is just an overview of the way to look at the problem one step at a time.

- Eric

 

ok so i got it at TDC on the compression stroke and removed the cap and the rotor was about 3/8's of an inch past the #1 wire. pulled the distributor and reset it to dead nuts on and it is still running like complete garbage. i i'm going to completely remove the distributor and see if the gear is loose or missing teeth. i'm probably going to order an HEI if this is the case.

 

Thanks MDchanic ill go through everything as soon as it cools back down Thanks a bunch for all the help you've given me on my Olds "journey" lol. i also found out my brother has a dwell meter so that should make things a big easier. even though the wires are brand new i will check them one by one. and go from there again thanks a ton!

 

Your best bet is if you know someone with a SUN machine in the back of their garage -
Hook it up to that puppy and watch the traces. You'll see if you've got any problems with plugs, wires, distributor, coil, or mixture.

I had a '72 Skylark convertible once that just hadn't seemed quite "right" lately - maybe the power was off - it was hard to tell. I hooked it up to a buddy's SUN machine, and we immediately saw that I had not one, but two bad wires. I swapped them with junk ones I had lying around, and it was like I had a new car. Just pulling the wires off hadn't revealed the problem, because they were only leaking when cylinder resistance was high (at open throttle / high load / high combustion chamber pressure), but the SUN machine showed it right away.

- Eric

 

i only have one car buddy and i gotta wait or him to be out of service in august..he's got a lift in his garage but no SUN lol, i did however have access to one at a trade school i went to when i was 16..maybe i should see if my old shop teacher is still around. we also had a dyno

 

your symptoms sound like what my old 72 coupe 350 rocket was doing one minute running like a clock the next start up it ran real bad and funky spitting poping ect it turned out I needed a whole new distributor the bearing inside the shaft was worn and wold miss fire to a cylinder on minute and the next it would fire correct try removing distributor hold lower shaft with one hand and see if the guts wobble with the other I replaced the distributor and she ran like a clock again this was around 120 thousand miles and sounds like what ur car is doing?

 

If it's a clogged carb, an easy way to correct it would be to rev it to about 4 grand, and put your hand over it, 'til it almost dies, rev it up again, and do it again - maybe 5 times. Should clean it out.
A filter that clogged wouldn't let the engine run at all!

 

Poor mans tuneup:

*First pull all the spark plugs, check for damage/ wear. If they are still pretty good, clean, regap, and reinstall.
*Check all the spark plug wires and make sure they are serviceable.
*Make sure you have a clean air filter, blow it out from the inside out with compressed air, but don't damage filter material.
*Make sure PCV is functional, clean if neccessary.
*Inspect all vacuum lines and meke sure they are connected and not split, broke, etc...
*Change fuel filter.

After all this then perform the following:

Start with resetting dwell at 30, get your timing back to 12-14 btdc like it was. Make sure your timing is not drifting and is steady (with vacuum adv disconnected). Reset your idle speed, and recheck timing.

Next check vacuum adv. Raise your idle to 3000 slowly, note timing with vacuum hose disconnected, plug your vacuum hose back on to the advance and make sure it goes another 12-15 deg btdc. If that checks good then all your distributor functions are probably ok.

Next make sure your idle speed is correct again. There are 2 screws to set idle mixture. Turn the left all the way closed. The engine will stumble and run like crap or stall. Then open approx 1.5 turns. Repeat the on the right it should do the same thing. If it does not then your carb is dirty or malfunctioning.

If everything is ok then fine tune the adjustment by turning the the right mixture screw out until the idle speed starts to drop. then turn the screw back in until you reach the highest idle speed possible and then turn in 1/8 of turn. Repeat precess on the left screw. Then reset idle speed. Keep going back and forth until the engine smooths out

This out to get you running decent!!
Good Luck!!

 

i check the distributor again and its fine..set points with a matchbook cover(only thing i have ATM) put everything back and it didn't change(again lol) i'm going to set the dwell and leave the distributor alone. plugs are good, wires are good, vacuum lines seem good so far(ill double check them out of paranoia) air filter is new and clean, fuel filter is new..but i suspect the filter because i think i might have run my car low yesterday and possibly got some tank gunk? ill replace the filter asap, the only thing i did different yesterday was notice my car was about 1/2 quart low on oil so i added 1/2 quart and then not even five miles later it doesn't want to run im lost and now without a car lol oh the joys of being 23, broke, and having a '65 DD its one hell of an adventure!

 

Well if you reset your points then your timing has changed. Should not be enuff for the engine not to start. The oil also would not prevent your car from starting!

As far as the broke thing and an old dd we've all been there! LOL!
Good luck.

 

well it starts just fine, it just runs so rough that the engine rocks side to side from idle up through 3000 rpm, i've checked every vacuum line and put everything EXACTLY the way it was before my car did this and its still garbage, i've replaced the fuel filter now, about to try my old condenser and see if that changes anything, and going to try ANOTHER coil and see what happens.

 

With the rocking back and forth, it REALLY sounds like some cylinders not firing...

- Eric

 

i pulled off each wire like you said it they all made the idle slow down, could it possibly be something internal? time for compression testing?

 

I'm really thinking the points are not firing right or maybe an igntion wire is burned thru and grounding somewhere.

Coil going bad?

I saw something on Muscle Car last week about converting a points disturbitor over to HEI with an Accel kit. You still need a coil with this kit thought

 

well i'm going to replace the distributor with an HEI..should i go with the ebay cheap-O special for $60? or go to my local junkyard and pull one for $40? i went last month and found a few late 70's oldsmobiles in there with HEI's but i was dirt poor just looking around to cure boredom LOL i thought maybe the GM part would be better but for $20 more i can get the brand new no name one

 

I'd find the problem before replacing parts...

- Eric

 

Maybe a hairline crack in the cap?? Or 2? They can be hard to see.

 

The one symptom that no one has addressed is the increase in temp. Could you have:

a) Blown a gasket and leaking cooling fluid into a cylinder?
b) Damaged a piston or rings when you got on it?
c) Damaged a valve?

I would check cooling fluid levels and color. Also a compression test all around.

 

thats a start

 

i'm trying but with my little knowledge its very hard to determine what is and isn't bad, the auto parts store next to my house doesn't care if i buy and return parts all day because i've been going there for 12 years so it actually makes it easier to just buy and try new parts to determine if certain things are broke, but i'm slowly checking literally everything on this car..actually started thinking that it sounds like i'm getting low voltage and yesterday when i shut off the car the battery made some funny noises..like fizzing sounds..it sounds stupid but could that be it? ill hook up a meter to it now.


ill go get a new one now just because they're so cheap and having extras doesn't hurt.


no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, ill pick up a compression tester what should they be at?, how do i check for a damaged valve?

 

It sure sounds like a vacuum leak or a carb issue. Did you do what I said with the idle mixture screws? Turn each one in all the way while its running and see if the engine runs really rough and wants to stall and then back them out 1 1/2 turns to smooth it out and then adjust for highest idle speed by turning them in a little at a time.

 

A clogged PCV valve will cause it to run like carp also.

 

did it but nothing, although i just went out there to check voltage at batter, alternator, coil, and regulator but its all good, BUT when i sat in my car my idle went up and i didn't touch anything! i got up and it lowers, sat down again and it went up 500rpm..should i try connecting a hose to a gas can and see if its the lines from tank to pump? or possible the pickup in the tank? i'm ready to take it in to my dad's friend's shop

 

So when you turn the idle mixture screws on the carb. all the way in, it has no effect on idle speed or anything?

 

In my experience, the ONLY way to set idle mixture screws is with a vacuum guage!
Highest reading wins!!

 

In re-reading the posts, could you have a bad float??

 

check your engine to firewall ground.

 

oh it changes, i just set it with your instructions!


ill have to get my hands on one and see the difference.

don't think so

will do

 

HOLY **** think i found it or what? haha 5222946e.jpg

i pulled my breather while running and out of the corner of my eye i saw in the hole that there was a rocker arm not doing anything.. which just so happened to be the one that's busted! HA i think i might have improperly tightened that set because it was making a very slight click but once i tightened it the sound went away until it just broke. now i noticed my car has a few of these 64143f81.jpg and some of these 8a7029bc.jpg which are proper for #4 heads? and will this b6be0277.jpg from my #2 heads work till my parts come on tuesday?

 

never mind about the last one lol i see now why they wont work.

 

Well THERE'S your problem!

 

NOW you can go out and replace parts .

- Eric

 

The 3 piece ones are replacement parts. Nothing wrong with using them.

 

yeah now i feel stupid for wasting peoples time


heck yeah! woo i get to spend my money on new tires now

Thanks! i'm going to just pick them up from Napa tomorrow rather than order them from Kragen..they always screw up my orders lol


Also if any of you guys are ever in the San Fernando Valley here in socal drinks are on me your information will no doubt make my car run smoother, longer, and faster. something that is priceless for me

 

Well it's O'Reilly now (guess where I work) and If you were close enough to come talk to me it wouldn't get messed up.

 

man if i was i would, i had to order a dipstick for my 350 six times before they finally got it to me...when i tried to order one for my 330 which they said was the same for the 350 they failed 4 times. it doesn't help that they don't speak much english they couldn't understand that even though the motor from my car was from a 72 everything else was still '65

 

Hmmmmm, and to think there were no noises to lead us to that!!! Who'd a thunk it, LOL !!!!!