I want more giddy up, but how?
I want more giddy up, but how?
I'm just looking to add a little HP to my 68 olds 350 engine with a turbo 350 trans.
I've been looking over some threads, but now I'm more confused. I'd just like to hear a general consensus.
I already have the Edelbrock carb on the car, but I'm thinking a manifold, a cam, and some headers will get me what I'm looking for.
So what should I go with? The Edelbrock Performer series (2711 intake, 3712 Cam), or the Performer RPM Series (7111 intake, 7112 Cam)?
Also is a valve spring change necessary with a new cam?
If I made this change, what else would I have to add?
I'm a You Tube mechanic, but on my 69 I changed my manifold with success (I think). Are these jobs I can do myself, or should I pay someone to do it for me?
Changing a cam doesn't look that bad...on You tube.
Thanks!
I've been looking over some threads, but now I'm more confused. I'd just like to hear a general consensus.
I already have the Edelbrock carb on the car, but I'm thinking a manifold, a cam, and some headers will get me what I'm looking for.
So what should I go with? The Edelbrock Performer series (2711 intake, 3712 Cam), or the Performer RPM Series (7111 intake, 7112 Cam)?
Also is a valve spring change necessary with a new cam?
If I made this change, what else would I have to add?
I'm a You Tube mechanic, but on my 69 I changed my manifold with success (I think). Are these jobs I can do myself, or should I pay someone to do it for me?
Changing a cam doesn't look that bad...on You tube.
Thanks!
May get more bang for your buck with gearing if you currently have tall highway gears (2.xx), especially around town. A 3.42 rear end and shift kit really wake up my car with a 350. Still not too bad on the highway with around 3000 rpm @ 70mph.
Yes - Everything is stock.
I want to leave the gears alone a this point, primarily b/c of funding.
The other caveat is I don't have the car, and I've never even seen it. It's getting restored right now in AZ.
The previous owner bought it from the original owner, and he said the oo bored it out and had it rebuilt, but not recently, but there's no paperwork on that claim.
My problem is I don't have possession of the car, and I won't until June. So I'm thinking too much!
LOL!
I want to leave the gears alone a this point, primarily b/c of funding.
The other caveat is I don't have the car, and I've never even seen it. It's getting restored right now in AZ.
The previous owner bought it from the original owner, and he said the oo bored it out and had it rebuilt, but not recently, but there's no paperwork on that claim.
My problem is I don't have possession of the car, and I won't until June. So I'm thinking too much!
LOL!
If you change your gears, make sure you buy a new gear for the speedometer cable, otherwise your speedometer will rear crazy high.
There's already a 4bbl edelbrock carb on it, but I don't know what choke is on it and I wont until I get the car.
Hmmm. Now that I think about it I wonder if there's a 4bbl carb running on a 2 bbl manifold?
I'm going to hAve to call them
Hmmm. Now that I think about it I wonder if there's a 4bbl carb running on a 2 bbl manifold?
I'm going to hAve to call them
I think I'd be prone to wait till I had the car before making any earth shaking changes. Too big a cam without a high stall torque converter and a higher numerical (aka lower gears) rear gear set-up can destroy the bottom end and cause the car to be very lethargic and the gas mileage will also suffer.
An Edelbrock Performer RPM is the best all around manifold if you want to run it hard at least occasionally. The carb size important too. If it's a 500cfm it may suffer on performance too. The springs need to be checked to see if they are still suitable with the cam you chose. If your lift is increased too much it can bind the springs and bend or break pushrods, etc..
If you are doing it yourself, which is my preference, be sure to work with a good shop for your machining and they'll help you design compatible components. Just throwing parts at an engine can be counter productive.
Have fun!
An Edelbrock Performer RPM is the best all around manifold if you want to run it hard at least occasionally. The carb size important too. If it's a 500cfm it may suffer on performance too. The springs need to be checked to see if they are still suitable with the cam you chose. If your lift is increased too much it can bind the springs and bend or break pushrods, etc..
If you are doing it yourself, which is my preference, be sure to work with a good shop for your machining and they'll help you design compatible components. Just throwing parts at an engine can be counter productive.
Have fun!
That's good advice Rich! I did plan on waiting before I got all crazy on it.
I didn't know that you'd have to get a sturdier torque converter if you changed your cam. It makes sense though, and it sounds like something out of my league.
I didn't know that you'd have to get a sturdier torque converter if you changed your cam. It makes sense though, and it sounds like something out of my league.
Jag - Below is a link of the ad and tons of pics.
This is all I got right now...
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/201...-olathe-ks.php
This is all I got right now...
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/201...-olathe-ks.php
It looks to be a good candidate. Are you good with the tools? I would encourage people with an interest and not enough knowledge to sign up for auto shop classes at your local city college. These can be inexpensive and allow you to use the shop facility and equipment with supervision to let yoou find out how to do it. I took all the shop they had in CA at Saddleback College in the early 70's and got to bore my own engine, etc.. I have used this knowledge often to have fun with my toys and occasionally it saves my neck :-)
Have fun with your toy.
Have fun with your toy.
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