Ok i have read that 69 olds 350 came with 2 option a 2 barrel 290hp or a 4 barrel 310 hp......My thing is the engine shop im talking to about rebuilding my block wants to charge 2500 dollars for an engine that produces 314 hp depending on the engine kit that i wanted to purchase....... my question is should i just go with a factory rebuild and just change cam, intake, and upgrade carb to a 4 barrel....

 

The factory horsepower ratings were fantasy numbers. They were done with a biased rating method, using a blueprinted engine instead of a factory mass-produced engine, with no accessories (alternator, water pump, etc.), no air intake restriction, and no restrictive exhaust system.

So if you opt for a "factory rebuild" you will likely end up with "real" 200 hp.

What you should do is plan out the build yourself - ask questions here, look at other peoples engine build recipes, and most importantly, determine what you will be doing with the car: daily driver, weekend street cruising, street/strip, or all out drag.

You can make a moderately powerful engine that will have good driving manners and run oon pump gas fairly easily, but you need to do some homework and put the right combination of parts together.

 

What octane gas do you want to run? I would use the Speedpro LF2321 pistons and cam in the 215+ duration AND either 2" or 2.07" intake and 1.625" exhaust valves with a minimum of opening the bowls up and springs matching the cam.

 

Absolutely true, but I'd also be skeptical of a machine shop that claims their engine build will produce EXACTLY 314 HP. Not 310, not 315, but exactly 314...

 

x2.

 

I think the 350-2 was 250 hp. The 400-2 was 290 hp.

 

Imagine that, I'm guessing then, the 73-77 Olds 350's listed as 170hp is more like 110 hp . Possibly 130hp with dual exhaust. That explains alot .

 

Yeah, good point - the 1969s were gross hp, and today it's measured in net.

 

More like 140/150 JMO.

 

This, and Fun71's = best answer here so far.

If you have someone else building the engine you might check details like do they know there should be a spurt hole in the oil galley plug at the dist'r gear area. If they do not know that, they should not assemble an Olds engine.

 

What are the goals you have in mind in terms of power (I suggest thinking of this in terms of how you want to drive it rather than a static number) and what do you want to spend? It always comes down to those two things.

If the shop is using "kits" they are, most likely, using cast pistons from engine tech or something like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...ake/oldsmobile


In the latter kit you'll notice they give a generic compression ratio of 9.6 with a 70 cc head, your #5 heads are most likely in the 64-67 range, I'd wager you aren't looking for a 10:1+ motor. In regards to the heads, I agree in having them cut for the large valves, something I regret not doing.

That 2,500 goes QUICK:
Speed pros- 400.00
Rings- 100.00
Carb- 300
Machine work- overbore, head work, assembly balance, crank cut..
intake, Cam/lifters.. you see there this is going.

 

I was referring to the 1969 ratings that were mentioned, which were GROSS ratings. GM changed the rating method in 1972 to the NET method, which rates the engine as-installed in the vehicle with all accessories, air cleaner, and full exhaust system so it is a much more realistic number.

 

I am visiting a potential engine builder tomorrow, I will add this to my list.

Ryan

 

Here are all the factory-available engines from the 1969 model year, with exception of the W-32, which was not released when this edition of the SPECS manual was printed in Oct 1968. Of course, the W-32 was really just the 350 HP manual trans 400 motor bolted to a TH400.