I have a noise coming from the engine, sounds like its more specific in the power steering pump pulley area, it does have some play when I wiggle it, would the noise be coming from that or the power steering pump itself, bearing? and would that cause a wigggle..

 

Can the bearing in the pump go bad and make noise? Yes.
Is that your problem? We have no way of knowing.
Typically if the bearing in the pump is bad, PS fluid will be leaking out the front seal.

 

Ok Joe I will up a video and hope it records what I'm hearing, just need help so I no what to buy so I can fix it..

Engine running:


Shows the play:

 

There should be zero play in the PS pump shaft. Of course, the easy way to test this is to temporarily remove the PS belt and start the engine. If the noise goes away, you've found your problem.

 

Ok I will do that, Just loosen the tensioner bolt on the bracket to get the belt off? I didn't get a CSM with the car, I am going to get one. So if the noise goes away, is it the pulley or the pump that would be the problem, the nut on the pulley is tight so not sure why there is play, so for being such a noob but I dont have any mechanic skills, but I wanna learn..

 

The nut simply holds the pulley on the shaft. The bearing holds the shaft in the pump body. They are unrelated.

There are THREE fasteners that you need to loosen to adjust the belt, the two bolts on the front and the one nut at the bottom rear of the pump. You need to loosen all three to get the belt off.

When it's time to reinstall the belt, use a large screwdriver as a pry bar and insert it between the nose of the pump and the tab on the bracket, between the pulley and the bracket. The photo shows the proper position of the screwdriver with the pulley removed for clarity. Use the screwdriver to tension the belt while tightening the two bolts on the front, then get the nut on the back. Failure to do this properly is why there are frequent posts about belts squealing.

 

Ok well I took the power steering belt off and still have that noise, damn..so could be the something in the fan pulley its the not the straightest, or alternator?

 

So same diagnostic process. Reinstall the PS belt. Remove the alternator belt. If the noise goes away, you've found the problem. If not, repeat with A/C (if equipped). If none of that makes a difference, remove all the belts and briefly start the engine (do this when the engine is cold). Do not run it for more than 30 seconds or so without a belt on the water pump, but if that finally makes the noise go away, it's the pump or fan clutch.

 

Don't have A/C, Man I hate being a pain in the a$$, I think the prevous owner broke the bolt on the alt bracket, how else to get that belt off?



another vid of the fan pulley and alt:

 

Loosen the bottom bolt on the alternator. Then, remove the broken bolt and fix that so you can tension the belt correctly.

 

Ok, I will try to think of something, at least the power steering pump pulley has no play in it anymore, really don't no how to go about getting the broke bolt out of there

Front and back view:

 

If you don’t have the tools or experience removing broken bolts, that alternator looks pretty old it might be easier and less frustrating to just get a new or rebuilt one. Good luck
greg

 

Yes I have a basic tool box, I do have an aftermarket stereo and subs, amps etc that came with car, what the biggest alt i can get thats plug and play?

 

You probably shouldn't waste time trying to get that broken bolt out.
Price out a reman alternator and decide.

 

Check out rock auto they probably have multiple choices or consult your local parts store
greg

 

If you search on here you can find threads about replacement arts that are plug and play w higher outputs. You will have to upgrade the wiring to accomadate the higher output.

 

Ok thanks guys. I will follow up.in a few weeks, wait till next pay day to order a CS130 and get a pigtail to do the upgrade. Then i can try to see if the proper tension makes that noise go away..if not i will carry on with what Joe was telling me..thanks again

 

Few more questions, does it matter where the plug clock position is, I'm looking at the one below, is that the right one? with the right Pigtail?

Looking at this from rockauto

Alternator: REMY 91310

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...29&jsn=3&jsn=3

Pigtail: Delco DN to CS - Part # W315CS

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/cat...hp?category=60

 

As far as alternator function is concerned, clock position means nothing. What does matter, however, is that the factory harness may not reach if the clock position is different from that of the original alternator. Rebuilders want to stock as few different part numbers as possible to reduce costs. It's cheaper for them to stock one alternator clocking instead of four and make you buy the separate pigtail to make it fit your car. I don't like it, but functionally it works. This is why I just rebuild my own.

 

So I ended up ordering 12SI version, 94 amp, the custom cruiser 86/87 year from rockauto, where the fan blades? the pigtail for the cs130 at qualitypower was over priced, 35 for the wire but wanted 60 to send it to Canada lol, yeah like I'm gonna spend over 100 bux on a wire in an envelope, so went with the 12SI since the amps are close and the pigtail for the12Si is on amazon for 35.00 and I have the free shipping for prime..

Rockauto, (alt, cor, tax, shipping, exchange) 128.00 Can to the door, my local partsource wanted 107.00 before tax and a 25 cor charge, so probably would have cost like 150.00 locally so 20 bux stays in my wallet.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=38409&jsn=260

 

Ok so I'm gonna carry on with this diagnosis today, have my alt, pigtail. When I upgrade the wire on the alt to 8 gauge can i use a wire from an amp kit since it cheaper than buying a roll of 8 gauge, crimp ends, shrink wrap etc. the wire is blue from an amp kit and is rated for an amp way more that 94 amps, not the red everyone seems to be using..also what size of nut and bolt is used on the alt adjusting bracket

 

Idk about the amp wire the last amp I put in w the boss wire kit on Amazon had a large diameter primary wire, but it was flexible like cooked spaghetti and not al dente like a large diameter wire is typically. Also it was hard to solder.

i would try to find either some legit wire online or my local ace/ truvalue hardware stores carry different wires and you pay by the foot.

 

I'm just gonna crimp and heat shrink it, I did look up online and 8 gauge is 8 gauge no matter how you slice it lol, copper does have some flex to it, its probably just the case that makes it stiffer..

Well looks like it back to the drill press and easy out option, the bottom bolt broke, so had to remove the bracket, on my way to my buddy's to borrow his tools..

 

Wow things are not going that good for me lol, after getting the damn bracket drilled out, half a case of beer later, had the wife pick me up and I got back to installing the bracket and new alt..after everything was hooked up I fired the car up and the belt looked a little sloppy and the car amp gauge was only 12 volts so I knew there was something not right, so I loosened off the bracket bolt on the alt and the alt dropped to the valve cover and it started to short, 1 I forgot to put that plastic cap over the wire and BAT bolt, 2 I forgot to remove the battery power. 3 probably shouldnt have been working on the car drunk, So of course the wiring harness was on fire, ran into the house and grabbed the fire ex and back outside to put it out. Don't really now how much damage I have done now but the harness is fried, probably fried the alt, looks like some other wiring off the horn relay is fried, the oil sender wire and little plastic hose melted so yeah it was a bad day

 

You could have had the car fall on you or roll over you or lost fingers, limbs or eyesight. The only thing being drunk is good for is you won't feel the PAIN from injuries right away.

 

Ok I got everything fixed back the way it was before all the bad happened. New ends installed on the main wiring harness, new 8 gauge to Alt, new 8 gauge to the horn relay, took the Alt to a shop had it tested, he found 72 amp on it so no way rock auto sent me the 94 I ordered, more like the 78 I'm thinking, and he also showed me a broken brush so I had to have that replaced, so It cost me an extra 50 bux to have the Alt re clocked to 3, and replace the broken brush. Just didn't want the hassle of re boxing it and sending it From Can back to Rock Auto cause I didn't get the 94 amp I paid for and to top it off the sent me one with a broken brush, getting one with the 9 o'clock position was my fault. So I'm going to try and get back on track on the original problem and get this noise figured out, Next item for me to try will be getting a new water pump, hope changing that goes right lol.

 

Just me but I would have just drilled out the broken bolt same size and used a new threwbolt and a nut with a lock and flat washer. If nothing else it would have let you know it wasn't the alternator.

You can still use Joe's advice and remove the fan pulley and see if the noise goes away on the water pump. Just a thought.... Tedd