Hey guys, my mate bought HEDMAN headers for his 1972 350 cutty base, but I just can't see these badboys fitting, there's not much room ?

 

As long as they are the right part, they'll go in through the bottom, after you lift the car high enough.

You've got to take off the oil filter adapter and maybe move the auto trans cooling lines around a little.

On the drivers side, there is brake junction block that might get in the way, and if so, it can moved around a little too.

I don't consider this a fun project, but it can be done.

Edit...I left out, you'll have to remove the dipstick also.

 

No different than any other Olds headers. I've installed Hedmans before with the usual problems.

 

X2. They will fit ok. As mentioned you may have to make some minor mods to brake line routing, etc. For my '72 I had to remove the heat shield from the left (drivers side) engine mount & cut about a quarter inch off of a tang on the right motor mount.

 

Cheers guys, if I can get the car high enough do I need to remove the starter as well ?

 

Yes starter will have to come off as well. The whole job isn't to bad. Just a bit time consuming. End result is worth it though.

 

Thanks for the help guys.
Thought you would like to see some photos

 

Are you stalking me Beaks ?????

Benge said WTF ! about those valve cover bolts, I do agree they look a bit too poncey mate, sorry.

 

Hey do yourself a favor get rid of the stock starter go to a mini starter!! Power master is a good one and i am sure there are others.

 

Yeah - i agree, might have to with the increased CR and tight new engine.... the only problem is there a bit expensive over here

 

I'm not sure those headers will slip in with those exhaust studs installed. Might have to remove them until you get them in place

 

Gentlemen, your help is really appreciated, he,s ordered a mini starter now, the headers wouldn't bolt up properly due to clearance. So, next step is start up procedure after full rebuild, is it 20mins at 2000rpm and then change oil n filter ?? Advice please.

 

Have you started it yet?
I'm sure you know all this but make sure you prime the oil system until oil comes out the rockers, fill the float bowl with fuel, water only in the radiator (in case it leaks), fire it up, and yeah, at least 2k rpm for at least 20 minutes, maybe vary the rpm a little 2000-2500. Watch for any leaks and be ready for the radiator to burp a lot. And check the trans fluid as soon as possible after firing (I was almost two quarts low after first start). My cam instructions said the 20 minutes didn't have to be a continuous run. That was good for me because my radiator was belching out A LOT of water and had to shut it down for a few minutes.
Hopefully you have gauges. It's scary doing it blind.
Good luck buddy!

 

And you're using the proper break-in oil, yeah?

 

Hi Joe, i thought it would be worth asking you if you know of headers that would fit my '65 Cutlass with the 330 V8 engine? Dick Miller makes some for approx. US$900 but by the time they would get to me in New Zealand they would cost me something closer to $2000 with delivery,import duty,and 15% GST on top of all other costs combined.
Second question, am I right in thinking headers would be the next logical improvement on my engine which is the factory 315hp, 360 ftlbs torque version but now with 600cfm Vac Sec 4 barrel,Edelbrock PerformerRPM inlet manifold, warm cam and full dual SS exhaust system? The car also has a shiftkitted TH350 transmission
I would appreciate any comments from yourself and other knowledgeable CO members.

 

Kiwi or maybe Aussie?

 

Unfortunately the only 64-67 A-body cars that I've put headers into have been BBO cars, and that was back when headers for that application were still easily available. The Kooks and AHRs are well made and fit nicely, but at a price. I'll defer to others with experience on the fitment of 68-72 headers in the early chassis. Since every manufacturer routes tubes differently, some fit (or nearly fit) and some aren't even close.