I know it's been much talked about but I will ask anyways. Looking for the best option for headers on my 68 cutlass s. 350 with around 450hp. Iooking at long tubes. Anyone have any suggestions or feedback? I'm not worried about the pricing aspect. Thank you!!

 

That is very optimistic.

 

Must be a pretty aggressive Olds 350. I see the Stainless Chinese headers are available again on Ebay, around $250 very well made with very thick flanges. The passenger side fit perfect, I had to modify, heat, flattened the tube by the mount. Others have not had not had to do this with a 350. The brake proportioning valve needs moved like any other full length headers. With stock springs and 225/70R14 front tires, I have probably 6" of ground clearance.

 

Potentially interesting note-
I think Hooker Super Comp SBO coated headers have been discontinued. They still appear to be available as painted, at a reasonable price. I could be wrong but I was looking into them for a price reference and I saw “unavailable” and “discontinued” between Summit & Jeg’s.

 

I put some super comps on the 403 in my 72 el Camino and the fit well. I’d guess the fit would be really close if not the same on any 68-72 a body

 

I don't think painted is available any longer either. I got a set from the "Holleydays" clearance sale this past winter for $110

Whenever I do a stroker SBO build, if funds allow I'm going to dyno it with Hedman shorties, the 1 5/8 3901-1HKR headers I currently have, and the 1 3/4 super comps and see what the results are. I'm hoping the 1 3/4 make best power and (more importantly) fit better.

That being said, to answer the original question... I can tell you that Hooker 3901-1HKR headers fit like crap! The driver side needed beatings in 4-5 locations to fit, that's with new motor mounts. This is on a 69 Cutlass with a small block of course.

 

I worked with 2 sets of the smaller SBO Hookers and they both needed more “massaging” than any set of Super Comps I dealt with. Wouldn’t say they fit badly, just needed more help. After using one set, the second was ordered with painted finish, dinged and dimpled, then sent out for coating locally.

​​​​​​….

 

Thank you all for the great info. Yes its a very aggressive build

 

If money is not a factor !
Look into American Racing Headers (ARH).
Excellent workmanship and tuck up high with plenty of ground clearance. As others have mentioned, moving brake proportioning valve and mini starter is a must.

 

Thank you for the information!!!

 

where did you need to beat them?

 

 

Holy cow, what a mess.

 

Damn.....I don't want to do anything like that

 

ARH headers fit..

 

I think the problem is the application is wrong. I’ve used two sets of those headers and they fit perfect on F body like trans ams and 73 and up cutlass.

I have one set here that’s used and was on a 76 cutlass. Doesn’t have a dent on them.

I used those exact headers on my 2008 Engine masters 307 . From what I remember they were F body , and 73 up cutlass. I wanted the small 1 5/8 tubes and that was the only ones available

we know headers that fit a 403 in trans am don’t fit 68 to 72 A body. Hooker lists those to fit the T/A

 

Thanks for all the info, I decided to go with the Hedman headers. Can anyone please tell me what is the best option or options for a mini starter? Thanks again!!

 

Powermaster 9510 Mini Starter

 

I like the super compact style. The Powermaster 9510 or 9610 are compact and work quite well. This is the most compact starter I have found. One member had an issue with too shallow of engagement. Mine worked perfectly fine.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334963299077...mis&media=COPY

 

Thanks for the information!

 

I'm the one that had problems with that starter. The power connections (studs) stick out right into the headers! You need to clearance (dent) the header tube slightly to clear. Also the insulators around said studs are weak plastic and not heat resistant at all. Lastly, I did have engagement problems with that starter. I had to massage the mounting bolt holes to get the teeth of the starter deeper into the ring gear of the flex plate. Others have had good luck with them, but I did not. Mine is still in use after all the issues were addressed but if it ever coughs, it will get replaced with a different type. Here is a link to the thread I posted about my starter issues. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-shims-158276/

 

Yeah I trimmed the studs, were super close, the Powermaster would have needed header clearancing. I actually used the Powermaster back block with this starter, allowed better clocking. Completely perfect engagement for me, so far.