rmoths

I bought a 1972 cutlass with a 350 engine with headers.
Well on the passenger side the headers are on the frame at the front exhaust pipe. Looks like the motor mount on that side is bad, the rubber looks like it's pulled apart. Looks like the weight of the motor is on the headers. I want to buy new motor mounts, but I'm not sure if I need somthing other than stock mounts. Looks like I need to raise the motor up about half inch or so to get proper clearance. Has anyone had this problem, Will the stock mounts work or must I get special mounts for headers. Thanks Barb.

oldcutlass

When motor mounts go bad they generally split in two like you describe. I would replace the mount. You might want to check the mount on the other side also. There are different aftermarket mounts available such as poly or even solids, and if need be, you can also add a spacer.

ah64pilot

There aren't any aftermarket mounts...the only options are stock type rubber or solid mounts. I have contacted Energy Suspension in the past but they will not develop a poly mount for these cars for some reason. They have the Chevy style "clamshell" mounts but because of our one piece rubber mount and the interlocking design they say it is impractical to make.

I don't know if they're blowing smoke or it really is impossible but I've been looking for these type of mounts for years now. It seems unless you go solid you are stuck with rubber mounts and a torque strap. Or an engine plate lol!

To the OP - you can get replacement motor mounts at any auto parts store for less than $10 each side. Make sure you compare the new mount to the old mount before you try installing it.

oldcutlass

I stand corrected, and take the 5th so as not to incriminate myself for my assumption! Anyway we old-er hot-rodders used to take a standard motor mount and drill straight through it, use a grade8 bolt and a stover self locking nut to create our own version of a semi solid motor mount!

ah64pilot

I like that idea! lol! And it would still have rubber to insulate some of the vibration I might have to try that one the next one...oh wait, that's in 2 days lol! I hope...I gotta get this other 455 together, I keep getting sweat delay and OMG it's HOT as HELL disease

oldcutlass

Yeah it's been from 97 - 107 with little rain here! I worked on my buddies 61 pickup Sunday in his shop, luckily there was a bit of a breeze!

Now quit whining and get that engine back in! (my motivational talk)

ah64pilot

Oh that engine is back in:





I'm talking about putting the engine for the convertible together...it's a fairly mild build with my tried and true street combo. It's a parade car, I don't wanna get too carried away lol!

455 over .040"
KB 277's
Engle 20-22 cam
Balanced
E heads
Performer intake
Edelbrock 750 square bore carb

rmoths

Thanks! I saw adding a spacer, Not sure where to add it on the frame or engine. So if I order the stock mount it will work with the spacer added.
I'm thinking I must add a spacer on the frame mount to make this work.
Sorry, This is all new to me dumb questions and answers will come with this new car. Barb.

ah64pilot

I don't think you will need a spacer. I just changed the mounts on my silver car while I had the motor out for giggles and when I installed the new mounts it was surprising how much it changed. You don't realize it but when 40 year old mounts go bad, they sag really badly. Mine were changed back in 2000 and they were already squashed by about 1/2".

Change to a new mount first, if it needs it then add a spacer. And yes, if you did add a spacer it would need to go under the frame mount.

Steve

rmoths

OK! Thanks Steve. A friend of mine ( A Truck mechanic) came over tonight and he said the same thing. When he can find the time we will change the mount and if we can't get clearance then we will put a 1/2 in plate under the frame mount on both sides. I hope that will give us the room we need. Hope the headers are not in the way for this. Damn those headers. Thanks so much, Barb.

oldcutlass

It's pretty hard to add a spacer on the frame bracket with the motor in the car! You can put a spacer between the mount and the block, you may have to elongate the motor mount holes to do it.

rmoths

I finally got around to put a new motor mount on that passenger side.
That did the trick, I have about 1/2" clearance now. Just a pain getting out with the headers in the way, Had to unbolt the headers then had trouble getting them lined up again to mount. So one problem solved for now.
Barb.

oldcutlass

Glad you got it.

jfb

torque strap it if upgrades are in your future or use hardware store chain on the drivers side long stud to frame until about 650 to 700 lbs of torque.

Greg Rogers

I was looking at the engine in my 71 last summer and it looked tilted, And it was! I had changed the mounts when I had engine out in 97 and thought they were still new... Found out that oil pan was sitting on frame!. Anyway changed mounts and all ok again. Some one told me that all aftermarket motor mounts were made in India and dont hold up. My 65 Dodge also had saggy mounts and the headers hit on the pitman arm so I bought some polyurithane mounts for it and everything came back into alignment but what a shaker- like solid mounts-dont really like that either. I guess the answer is to change mounts every 3-4 years ....