When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I diss-assembled the engine below and have a question on head gaskets for it. It had fel-pro head gaskets on it, but the engine sat for so long some rust has developed on the steel compression ring around the bores. I bought an engine gasket kit from "Mr. Gasket" since it had head gaskets with it and was wondering what everyone's thoughts are about these.
I had them on and all torqued down until I found some sludge in the drivers side oil galley just inside the distributer gear plug. I took everything back apart and ran the block up to local shop to have it thoroughly cleaned. This is why there is witness marks on them showing they've been installed. I've been reading some head gasket threads on here and it seems that the Fel-Pro, Cometics, Mahle...are the gaskets of choice, but considering this is very tame "stock" type build I was hoping that these would work, now I'm second guessing. I just want this thing to start and move under its own power for the first time in 15 years and hopefully before they stop selling gasoline! My budget has run out months ago so if these will work that would be just great!
Anyone ever use these or have some feedback good/bad?
Thanks,
Chris
To save time typing, here is a copy and paste from a previous post with some back ground on the engine:
"OK...I'll try to abbreviate as much as possible.
I've got a 350 going in my '69 Cutlass "S". The engine was rebuilt about 15 years ago and taken with a '72 Cutlass to body shop to be restored...long story short...the original owner must have fallen off the face of the earth, because he was never heard from again. The body shop owner was closing his business, and not being able to contact the owner of the car and engine listed it on craigslist. A friend of mine bought the engine for $500 bucks and said, "here, put this in your car".
So this is where I'm at. The engine was, in fact, bored .030 over and rebuilt. I can only assume it was to go back as close to stock as possible from the looks of it. It has Silvolite .030" pistons PN#1633, which I've found to have 21cc dish for 8.4cr according to their website. The heads are 7a's and any work beyond a clean up and valve job is unknown so I can only assume the surfaces were just cleaned. It has the stock stamped rockers and what appears to be new springs with some visible shims under the spring seats. The cam is unknow as well (I actually asked for help identifying it, but probably a wild goose chase), I measured the base circle, the lobe and with the rocker ratio came up with .401 lift so I'm thinking this might have been built for a 2bbl. I'd like it to have a little more pep than this so I'd like to know everyone's thoughts. I will be putting a performer and a Q-jet on it. I really just want to get this car back on the road using this engine, but I want it to be able to get out of it's own way too and I don't know if I'll be happy with this "small" cam. I have a 350D block that I want to build with a stroker kit from Mark and possibly a single turbo in the future, but I want to get this car back on the road after sitting for 15 years.
The car: 1969 Cutlass S 200 4r trans (by CK Performance) 2500 stall (non lock-up) 3.08 peg leg Hooker SC headers/Pypes 2.5" dual exhaust 275/60/15 rear tires"
If they are put back in the same side as you put them on, they should be fine. I believe they are .038" vs the Felpro. 042" compressed, a good thing. Unless you are 0 deck or about .010" in the hole with a 66cc chamber, possible if cut, you are probably less than 8.4 to 1 compression. That should be a really good highway cruiser, even if closer to 8 to 1. The torque converter is overkill for that cam but should launch quite well. Any reason for the non lock up? Good luck.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 21st, 2021 at 06:35 PM.
I was trying to think ahead with the trans so it would fit in with my overall goals. I have a 350 D block that I plan on running some boost on in the future (like the 70 Cutlass V8TV did a while back) and CK suggested to go with the non lock up converter. I may wish I'd chosen otherwise and have thought about it since, but at the time I figured I'd take his advise...like most try to do when we ask for recommendations on here.
Nothing wrong with taking an experts advice, they know the 2004R. I discussed and changed my build ideas with Cutlassefi. My motor is a milder 400 hp/400+ ft/lbs Olds 358. I am going 3.08 posi from 2.78 open, expensive in a Type O rear. A PATC lock up 2200 to 2500 flashes at 2350 converter with just a CK high output oil pump, their shift kit, servo, a bottom feed 4L60E filter, deep pan and my home modified governor for 5000+ rpm shifts. Will see if the stock foward drum expires, I have a spare 2004R to build, if it does. At least you car will be a nice driver while building the beast. Good luck.
December 21st, 2021, 06:13 PM
My budget has run out months ago so if these will work that would be just great!
