Hard start/sputter

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Old Sep 14, 2017 | 10:34 AM
  #1  
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Hard start/sputter

Car has been acting up when cold. When I go to start my car in the morning it is very hard to start and keep running. I have spark, can see fuel go inyo the carb, and the starter kicks on every time, however I have noticed my fuel filter looking a little dry. Replaced filter and its looking the same. Once the car warms up (with a lot of work) it starts up right away and runs fine. The filter stays looking a little dry and I can see fuel gushing into the filter from time to time. Fills up after I shut the car off. I have replaced cap n rotor and no luck. Someone has mentioned maybe its the carb. Maybe a need a new pump? I have pulled my plug and grounded it and can see somewhat of a steady spark. It may dim a bit here and there. Any suggestions? Again the car runs and starts fine when its warmed

Last edited by Middian; Sep 14, 2017 at 10:37 AM.
Old Sep 14, 2017 | 11:18 AM
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Year, electric, manual or stock choke? Is choke working?
Old Sep 14, 2017 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by m371961
Year, electric, manual or stock choke? Is choke working?
72 350 quadrajet looks like its vacuum operated not sure how it work though
Old Sep 14, 2017 | 11:53 AM
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if your looking to change youre choke to an electric one from the hot air style they sell a kit to do so.
Old Sep 14, 2017 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
if your looking to change youre choke to an electric one from the hot air style they sell a kit to do so.
not really I kinda just wanna make what I have work
Old Sep 14, 2017 | 03:18 PM
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When it is cold, not running, push gas pedal to floor, look at choke plate to see if it is closed. The chassis service manual explains choke operation and adjustments. You do have a factory service manual ? If not, you need one.
Old Sep 15, 2017 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by m371961
When it is cold, not running, push gas pedal to floor, look at choke plate to see if it is closed. The chassis service manual explains choke operation and adjustments. You do have a factory service manual ? If not, you need one.
sputtering when warm now. Coil?
Old Sep 15, 2017 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Middian
sputtering when warm now. Coil?
choke is fine
Old Sep 15, 2017 | 12:43 PM
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When was it tuned up last? 90% of carb problems are ignition related. Are you running points still?
Old Sep 15, 2017 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
When was it tuned up last? 90% of carb problems are ignition related. Are you running points still?
yes points are less than 1k in but are autozone points
Old Sep 15, 2017 | 03:28 PM
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Do a no parts tuneup and go over your settings, dwell, timing, A/F mixture. Check for vacuum leaks.
Old Sep 15, 2017 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Do a no parts tuneup and go over your settings, dwell, timing, A/F mixture. Check for vacuum leaks.
no vacuum leak how do I adjust a/f
Old Sep 15, 2017 | 06:03 PM
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With a tach or vacuum gauge. Adjust for the highest rpm or vacuum while trying to maintain that both screws are about the same turns out.
Old Sep 20, 2017 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Do a no parts tuneup and go over your settings, dwell, timing, A/F mixture. Check for vacuum leaks.
No timing light light but wouldn't that not allow my car to run at all. Did timing less than a year ago. Checked dwell and it was at 25, adjusted, and was still sputtering and all that. Pulled plugs and they were worn to hell. Replaced and gapped to .40. Still the same... could it possibly be my fuel pump. I can see gushing here and there when I high rpm on fuel filter
Old Sep 20, 2017 | 03:08 AM
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Your timing is off since you reset your dwell, increasing dwell angle decreases timing.
Old Sep 20, 2017 | 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Your timing is off since you reset your dwell, increasing dwell angle decreases timing.
ahhh bingo what should my timing be
Old Sep 20, 2017 | 07:11 PM
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8-12* btdc
Old Sep 20, 2017 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
8-12* btdc
set timing but the mark is jumping.... and rpms are surging. Dwell is at 30
Old Sep 21, 2017 | 11:13 AM
  #19  
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I set my plugs to .40
is this correct?
Old Sep 21, 2017 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Middian
set timing but the mark is jumping.... and rpms are surging. Dwell is at 30
Is the vacuum advance disconnected? How much is it jumping? Can you adjust the A/F mixture screws to smooth it out? Set with rpm raised @1100 adjust timing and then reduce the rpm back back to idle of 600 rpm with car in drive (probably 750 in park).

Originally Posted by Middian
I set my plugs to .40
is this correct?
.040 is correct.
Old Sep 21, 2017 | 11:57 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Is the vacuum advance disconnected? How much is it jumping? Can you adjust the A/F mixture screws to smooth it out? Set with rpm raised @1100 adjust timing and then reduce the rpm back back to idle of 600 rpm with car in drive (probably 750 in park).

yes I had plugged the vacuum advance. Was jumping about 2 to 3 degrees I'm not too sure how to adjust the a/f screws but I'll look online. How often do these need adjusting? Feels like a heavy surge. Would the screws cause it to jump around that much? Maybe timing chain is jumping a tooth? Or loose


.040 is correct.
Old Sep 21, 2017 | 12:02 PM
  #22  
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I'll post a video later. I'm also hearing a clicking here and there around the water pump area.
Old Sep 23, 2017 | 04:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Is the vacuum advance disconnected? How much is it jumping? Can you adjust the A/F mixture screws to smooth it out? Set with rpm raised @1100 adjust timing and then reduce the rpm back back to idle of 600 rpm with car in drive (probably 750 in park).



.040 is correct.
can't even get the car warmed up
I prime the carb, start it, and it runs like cramp. If I try to give it gas it does out .only stays running horribly at idle. Might need a carb rebuild? Pulled fuel line to carb, had a weak flow, normalized with a nice gush only when engine wanted to start....
Old Sep 30, 2017 | 01:51 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Is the vacuum advance disconnected? How much is it jumping? Can you adjust the A/F mixture screws to smooth it out? Set with rpm raised @1100 adjust timing and then reduce the rpm back back to idle of 600 rpm with car in drive (probably 750 in park).



.040 is correct.
ok so i adjusted a/f mixture ran great for about a day and got back to bogging
someone mentioned the accel pump and also mentioned i can drip oil in there to swell the seal. choke is outta the question cause it bogs when hot now. no money for a rebuild.....
Old Sep 30, 2017 | 03:35 AM
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A rebuild kit for the carb is not that expensive and can be had through your local auto parts store. If you look down into the carb with the engine off and operate the throttle, you should see 2 solid streams of fuel spraying into the throat. If not your accelertor pump is no good.
Old Oct 7, 2017 | 04:18 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
A rebuild kit for the carb is not that expensive and can be had through your local auto parts store. If you look down into the carb with the engine off and operate the throttle, you should see 2 solid streams of fuel spraying into the throat. If not your accelertor pump is no good.
hearing a knock on left so of engine near top can you hear it? What could this be
Old Oct 7, 2017 | 04:30 PM
  #27  
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Your engine tune is all messed up. For one, the idle is too low to see anything. Did you set your timing? Do you have any friends that can help you tune your engine? Get rid of that fuel filter or up your insurance.
Old Oct 7, 2017 | 05:36 PM
  #28  
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Fuel delivery looks low, x2 on getting rid of fuel filter, have to start over with basics, have underlying problems. If you fill carb float bowl will it run?
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