BB Blue 67

Hi everyone please help me if you can. I just rebuilt my 1966 rochester quadrajet. during the assembly i came to the new needle seat assembly it was different than the one that came out.It had a newer version needle but still had the two screw top it also came with a brass plug with an oring to plug up the fuel hole in the front left corner of the bowl.so i plugged the hole by pressing the plug in the hole and assembled the new style needle seat. finished rebuilding the carb,installed it on the car and started it up and while starting i noticed fuel was shooting from the top of the carb. Has anyone else had this problem? do you think its the new style needle seat causing this?

TripDeuces

I had the same problem. I used two different plugs on the one with the brass and o-ring and they still leaked. The last plug was an aluminum cone shaped piece which I drove in and covered with JB Weld. Before doing this it poured out of the carb like you're describing. Those 1st generation QJets are notorious. It runs great now but JB Weld was the only way I could get it to stop leaking. I don't really like using it but I was out of ideas. BTW: 1/8 pipe plugs are too big to fit in that little tower (that was my other idea)

Oldsmaniac

I did one of those early quads on my 66 Sfire. I followed the instructions and did not have a problem. Are you sure float level is correct and not too high?

Run to Rund

IIRC, the early Qjets used a diaphragm type fuel shut off, not a conventional needle and seat. Also, there were two varieties of floats. One had more leverage on the shut off than the other.

TripDeuces

That's true R to R. The rebuild kits now replace that set up with a traditional needle and seat but retain the seat as the factory did it with two small screws using an o-ring under it to seal. The new set up seems to work ok but the additional plugged tower on the passenger side is attached via a small transfer slot so fuel can enter it. No idea what the plan was with this but it was abandoned. Regardless, I have money that's where the leak is from.

BB Blue 67

thanks tripdeuces i am about to go remove the air horn and see if that plug has popped out,i was thinking last night that the damn plug was leaking i will let you know if that was the problem. i have some jb weld to put on top of it. will the gas eat away at that epoxy? its a multi metal epoxy? i also think i put the needle on the outside of the float instead of the inside i hope this fixes the problems.

TripDeuces

I haven't had a problem with JB weld when used in a thick enough layer. The thin layers will tend to flake so if possible drive that plug at least an 1/8inch deep into the tower. Also make it as clean as possible and roughing it up a bit doesn't hurt. Thorough drying is another key. I think the directions state 12-15 hours so go with that or more.

I'm not sure what you're saying by having the needle on the outside of the float? If you mean the wire clip holding it it does go on the outside not through the holes in the float arm. The top of the needle gets pressed down by the float arm to shut off fuel flow.

BB Blue 67

yeah thats what i meant the original needle was hanging on the inside of the float but this new one wouldnt work like that so i hung it on the end of the float. i have broke it down and readjusted the float height to 3/8" i had it at a 1/4 in. and pushed plug in a little further and took a knife and scraped down the inside to rough it and put the jb weld epoxy in there.also when i pulled off the airhorn and went to pull the throttle plunger out the gasket just pulled off the end and was stuck in the tube. is that a faulty throttle plunger? i went ahead and cleaned up the old one and used it just incase. you think i should wait 12 hours before starting to let the epoxy cure?

TripDeuces

I would let it cure at least the 12 hours, overnight would be better. I don't think using the old plunger is bad as long as it is pliable. Let us know how it works out. Just give that JB Weld time to dry.

BB Blue 67

well i just got back from a test drive and it works perfect! started right up no leaks and runs like a new car! thanks for all your help tripdeuces and oldsmaniac, i believe it was the plug that was leaking and i lowered the float an1/8 of an inch! wow it really ran good and had power too and the idle even in gear didnt miss a beat! my next projet is transmission pan is leaking. and i believe the rear main seal is leaking as well any hints or advice u can give i would apreciate.

Oldsmaniac

Good to hear, change the gasket on the trans pan and then see if leaks have stopped. Clean the area good with carb spray or solvent so you can easily see any other leaks. The original rear main engine seal was a rope seal. They now use a Ford neoprene 2 piece seal that can be installed while the crank is still in the engine.

TripDeuces

Glad that worked but I hope you let it dry enough. At least if it happens again you'll know what to do this time. Oldsmaniac has you set on the other problems. Good luck.

BB Blue 67

i know this is probably a stupid question but what transmission fluid should i use?

Oldsmaniac

Gm trans fluid is Dextron.... I think it is all the same now. There used to be ford only and the like but I am pretty sure there is only 1 choice now.

BB Blue 67

yeah i picked some up at walmart earlier it was called dex/merc for early gm and ford model vehicles. it was 15 dollars a gallon i got 6 qts. hope thats enough. thanks for your help oldsmaniac. my weekend is filled now with the tranny filter and the rear main seal. i got the rear main seal this morning its in 2 pieces of a rope wax mixture! im sure its not gonna be easy!

Oldsmaniac

You may not have enough trans fluid.... I forget the amount required for the pan but it could be 6 quarts. I would not suggest you try the rope seal as you need a special tool to install the top piece with the crank in the engine and even then it usually does not work. Do not attempt to change the rear main unless you know it is leaking for sure. The Olds BB uses the ford BB 460 and the like non rope seal. A popular brand is Fel Pro and ask for a seal for a 1973 Ford 460 engineand you will get the right one. It also nees to be facing the correct direction when installed. This is what you should use if you are going to attempt the real seal replacement. You need to be sure that indeed it is a rear main seal leak and not a trans front seal leak.

BB Blue 67

ok thanks i will take this gasket back and ask for the ford 460 gasket. are you sure that will work for the 2 speed transmission? im not 100% sure its the rear main but it is engine oil leaking and its coming from in between the oil pan and the transmission pan. and the fluid coming from the tranny pan is red.

Oldsmaniac

Just to be sure you are working on a big block Olds engine? A question...why is it mated to a 2 speed trans? If it is a 400,425 or 455 Olds engine the 460 Ford rear main engine seal is the one.

BB Blue 67

no its a 330ci 5.4 litre with an st300(jetaway) 2 speed

Oldsmaniac

There is the same type seal for the small block Olds but I am not sure what it is....