Hi guys,
as mentioned in the Newbie section I'm currently trying to
get my Olds engine (cast nr. 395558) up and running.
I noticed that the camshaft eccentric that drives
the fuel pump seems to be missing.
I read somewhere that this eccentric is important also in
case you use a electric pump.
Before I unbolt the complete front cover I'd like to hear your opinion if
an eccentric should be installed.
I took a pic with my endoscope-cam from the inside that
show the camshaft end.

Thanks in advance for your answers.

 

I do not see the reason to have the eccentric if you will be using an electric pump.
Apparently, your motor was apart and it was running an electic pump then. They figured it was not needed and left it off. Weight savings of 1oz or so...
That's my conclusion...

If you want to use an mechanical pump again, you will need to add the eccentric.

 

The eccentric does space the nose of the cam bolt closer to the front cover to minimize cam walk, and it serves as a washer under the head of the bolt. It looks like your cam bolt has been chewed and the end is rolled over.

 

EVERYTHING looks chewed-up in that picture -
I'd be tearing that down and checking it out before that cam bearing walks into the timing chain!!

 

Thank you all for your answers.
I will remove the timing chain cover and have
a closer look what's going on there.
I have to get some tools like a puller for the
harmonic balancer, so this will take some time.

Be sure I will post new pics here, to get
opinions what should be changed or repaired.

Thank you all

 

Hi all,
I finally managed to remove the timing chain cover.
Attached are two pics showing the camshaft end.
It seems that the fuel pump eccentric was replaced
with a large washer and for me as a newbie it doesn't look wrong.
I have a new pump eccentric and also a new bolt kit for the camshaft
that includes a bronze button (DMR-5740).
Now I have a few questions:
1. Do these pics confirm that everything or something is chewed-up?
2. Can I continue with the current solution - or should I add the eccentric
and the new bolt?
3. In there anything else I should check with removed timing cover?

I'm very happy to hear your comments.
Thanks in advance for all your help !!

 

The end of the bolt does look a bit chewed up. What does the back side of the timing cover look like? That washer is WAY too thick and I believe that's why the cam bolt is chewed up.

 

Put the engine back with new parts so it matches the way it left the factory.
All the parts are there for a good reason, the bean counters at GM wouldn't sanction spending more than necessary to make it work properly.

Roger.

 

Hi svnt442, all,
the back side of the timing cover has a clear round mark where the bolt
hit the cover. I measured the washer and the washer is about 0.04
(1mm) thicker than the eccentric.

What makes me wonder is, that if I use the
Dick Miller Racing (DMR) Camshaft thrust button kit with the included bronze button I would have the same height as I have now.
According to DMR there should be around .004 to .005 clearance from the front cover and that's roughly the clearance I have now??

Should the cam bolt never hit the front cover, or serves the cover
as a guidance to restrict camshaft moving?

 

It all looks like it was working fine to me. You may have removed the cover for nothing, unless of course you wanted to run a mechanical fuel pump.

At least you will have piece of mind that there are good parts in there, and new gaskets.

 

It's designed to rub on the front cover, but the thicker the spacer it between the gear and the bolt, the harder it will be pushed into the cover.

 

My suggestion is use an eccentric. It is very hard and the tang helps hold the cam and timing gear where they belong to each other. Just had a cam dowel pin shear from only having a washer on the front of the gear. Luckily it did a slow shear and parts (ie pistons and valves)didn't hit (whew!!). Use the eccentric!

 

X2 remember It worked well on the original engine

 

Hey,
thanks a lot for all the responses.
As I already have the fuel pump eccentric and the new bolt kit,
I will use it
Do I have to somehow block the gear from turning or can I simply unbolt it?
I will replace the thick washer with the eccentric and use the new bolt
together with the bronze button - I assume I won't need a washer under
the bolt then?
Does anybody have the torque specs for the camshaft bolt and for
the crankshaft - balancer bolt at hand?

I already have a new split timing chain cover, but I need a new water pump
as the old one is leaking - I like the Tuff Stuff 1504NA chrome - and it has the correct length
I keep you up to date..

 

Ok,
I finally decided to keep the things as they are.
I measured the distance from the bolt to the front cover with a feel gauge and
with the gasket in place and the distance is about 0.004 as it should be.
I installed a new split front cover and the new water pump.
The balancer gets a new repair sleeve and will be installed the next days...

Thanks for you support.