frost plug problem

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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #1  
tnelson's Avatar
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onlythego
 
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: minnesota
frost plug problem

alright fellas, i got some bad news about my 77 grand prix with a olds 350, i was told that my frost plugs are done and that its going to take an overhaul to fix it. any ideas? price? any info will help, thanks guys
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:50 AM
  #2  
442garage's Avatar
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From: Goldbar, Wa. 98251
Originally Posted by tnelson
alright fellas, i got some bad news about my 77 grand prix with a olds 350, i was told that my frost plugs are done and that its going to take an overhaul to fix it. any ideas? price? any info will help, thanks guys
Can you give us some more information? Are your frost plugs rusted out, or perhaps they might have fallen out? Has the motor been replaced, and incorrect size frost plugs (freeze plugs) installed? Have you lost coolant, did your motor seize? The reason I ask these questions is I had to rebuild a motor because I lost a freeze plug and almost had a catastrophic
engine failure as a result of overheating. Determining what is going on will help us guide you in your potential engine rebuild.
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 07:47 AM
  #3  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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From: Plano, TX
If the block froze and popped the plugs, then there is a chance there could be major damage.
If they just rusted out from not running the right coolant, then the block can be well flushed and cleaned and new plugs installed.

Just because the plugs are leaking, it doesn't always mean an overhaul. The engine needs to be thoroughly checked first.
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:15 AM
  #4  
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From: Shorewood, Il.
Any freeze plug can be replaced while the motor is in the car!
Might have to pull the trans or manifolds, but it can be done.
Exception might be if they are all weak, or the system is clogged, but they're all accessible.
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:28 AM
  #5  
Indy_68_S's Avatar
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From: Central IN
Originally Posted by Rickman48
Any freeze plug can be replaced while the motor is in the car!
Might have to pull the trans or manifolds, but it can be done.
Exception might be if they are all weak, or the system is clogged, but they're all accessible.
Ha!

I had a rusty battered old 6 cyl Maverick as my first car. The original plugs were rusty and leaked. When one would get too bad, I pry it out and replace with one of those rubber expanding ones. I got so I could do it in a parking lot if needed....!
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #6  
tnelson's Avatar
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onlythego
 
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From: minnesota
i got the car out of a barn and then drove it for the summer but on way to the mechanics one of the plugs started to leak. He said it was probably from sitting around in the barn for all those years with coolant in it. He recommended basically going through the whole engine and said it would cost around $2500. im not against this figure i just want to know what you guys think i should do. i dont want to build a monster just a nice daily driver with some get up. Thanks alot guys
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #7  
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From: Shorewood, Il.
To do it right, at todays prices incuding the R+R and misc., he's probably right there!
Ask questions about cam, pistons and headwork - maybe talk to the machine shop doing the work, about a 'high performance' rebuild!
Parts prices aren't too far apart from stock!
Old Feb 6, 2011 | 05:22 AM
  #8  
MDchanic's Avatar
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From: The Hudson Valley
If you drove it around all SUMMER, and had no overheating problems, and it ran well, and you had no other complaints, then why on earth take the whole motor apart just to change a freeze-out plug?

If you want to rebuild it anyway, and just wanted an excuse, then have at it.

- Eric
Old Feb 6, 2011 | 07:50 AM
  #9  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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From: Plano, TX
Originally Posted by MDchanic
If you drove it around all SUMMER, and had no overheating problems, and it ran well, and you had no other complaints, then why on earth take the whole motor apart just to change a freeze-out plug?

If you want to rebuild it anyway, and just wanted an excuse, then have at it.

- Eric
Like he said...

If the car ran good, used little or no oil, no smoke, etc, then why overhaul it?
Have the plug(s) replaced if can be done with engine in place, and drive that thing until the engine really needs a rebuild.

If the engine must come out for plug replacement, then i would change all the oil sealing gaskets, oil pump, and timing set for prevention.

Just my view...
Old Feb 6, 2011 | 06:23 PM
  #10  
tnelson's Avatar
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onlythego
 
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: minnesota
thanks guys, i think now is as good of time as any for the rebuild. The car did seem to start leaking oil towards the end after the plug problem. he checked the cylinders and they all still have good compression but now i have to find how to make it faster. i got a old aluminum edelbrock intake and a edelbrock 650 performer carb. so whats next, exhaust, heads,bore out the pistons? I am new at this and really dont know? thanks for any suggestions guys.
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 06:46 AM
  #11  
Jesse's Avatar
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Posts: 36
Same situation

Just had my 72 cutlass convertible in for my winter mechanical fix up: All new front end bushings , rad support bushings were original as well as ball joints (still riveted) so all new front end, also had rad recored with extra tubes & had new ( remanufactired Lee steering box installed wich I recommend ) ! My mechanic said freeze out plugs show slight seepage , but not bad ! They are not rusted ! Also ever so slight leak on rear main seal rope & oil pan , though none of these leaks are excessive. He suggested pulling the motor & putting in all new seals , gaskets , oil pump & going over engine at a cost of $2500.00. The time to do it was then since I was having my 4 speed overhauled ( gaskets & seals) also new clutch installed. I decided to wait since engine is running fine right now. So the price you were quoted seems consistent to what I was told. He also mentioned that these blocks bulge somewhat under pressure ? Anyone hear of this >
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