Flex plate to torque converter

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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 07:02 PM
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Flex plate to torque converter

Hey folks,
I might have a lot of questions between now and tomorrow afternoon when I have my engine back in, so my apologies.

My flex-plate to torque converter "matching them back up" marks didn't survive the build. Will the assembly be unbalanced if I don't get it right? I figure I have a one-in-three chance
Old Jun 6, 2014 | 07:07 PM
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Naah. Don't worry about it.

- Eric
Old Jun 6, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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It won't matter what position you put it in. The flexplate is balanced with the rotating assembly and the torque converters are balanced individually. They are exclusive of one another.
If you really think about it it makes sense. Otherwise you'd have to balance every drive train with the engine it was going with as a unit. No manufacturer is going to do that on a mass production line.
Old Jun 6, 2014 | 07:43 PM
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I thought I had read, some eight months ago, that I needed to be careful of this.
Thanks guys. One less thing.

How about spark plug boots to header flange clearance? I liked the looks of the right angle boot, cut them to fit perfectly, and voila, they're right up against the header flange. I can get maybe 1/4", 1/8" in a couple of spots. Live and learn.
Old Jun 6, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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Start all of the bolts before tightening ANY of them

Beware of too-long bolts
make sure you have a matched identical set
oh and the thread may be 10mm or 3/8, so TEST FIT THE BOLTS FIRST.
Old Jun 6, 2014 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Macadoo
How about spark plug boots to header flange clearance? I liked the looks of the right angle boot, cut them to fit perfectly, and voila, they're right up against the header flange. I can get maybe 1/4", 1/8" in a couple of spots.
The originals were straight, and I think those work the best.

- Eric
Old Jun 6, 2014 | 07:55 PM
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You are probably remembering a thread on 371-394 engines that are externally balanced and need to be matched up or bad things will happen(vibration)...Tedd
Old Jun 6, 2014 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Octania
Start all of the bolts before tightening ANY of them

Beware of too-long bolts
make sure you have a matched identical set
oh and the thread may be 10mm or 3/8, so TEST FIT THE BOLTS FIRST.
3/8" actually. I've tested fitted them like 10 times. Thanks Chris[?]

Originally Posted by MDchanic
The originals were straight, and I think those work the best.

- Eric
I thought there might be clearance issue with the AC box. All the straight boot wires I looked at seemed really long. Oh well, I'll make them work for the time being.

Originally Posted by Tedd Thompson
You are probably remembering a thread on 371-394 engines that are externally balanced and need to be matched up or bad things will happen(vibration)...Tedd
That's entirely possible Tedd. I'm just glad I don't have to worry about it.
Old Jun 6, 2014 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
The originals were straight, and I think those work the best.

- Eric
But doesn't it look purty this way?!

[IMG][/IMG]
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 03:28 AM
  #10  
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Yes, but the whole point of the right angle boots is to avoid big loops of wire like you have there, on engines of a certain Division where the spark plugs are buried in between the exhaust manifold flanges:



- Eric
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 04:58 AM
  #11  
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Well sure, I know that now! I originally thought the boots would come out a little further, enough to clear the head. Then I was going to run them nice and tight under the valve covers. Like I said, I'll make due for now.
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 06:41 PM
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I have that same style right angle boot and just point them as needed for the wires to clear.
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Fun71
I have that same style right angle boot and just point them as needed for the wires to clear.
Yup, pretty much what I'll have to do too. I'll decide later if I want straight boots.
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