Looking for a recommendation for book on tuning EFI systems. Anyone have a suggestion?

Rodney

 

Good question. Does the FI Tech only allow tuning from a lap top or just the hand held? There is much more for Holley on their actual software than the in vehicle hand held. For example, you can add things like a 4L80E in the hand held but only do the basic. Cutlassefi tune hand the trans locked out on the tune he did for me. I was able to marry my 4L80E to his tune with their V3 software with the laptop plugged in place of the hand held. I didn't mess with their shift tables, don't know enough about it. I changed the WOT shifts, 4000 rpm for now and adjusted the lock up parameters for my gearing and tire size.

 

Very mixed reviews on this. A general consensus is that most fi tech systems have been replaced with a carb or a holley sniper (some like the fitech, some like it until they don't).
They're are different varieties of tuning fitech (different versions of hand held-and some have different calibration updates, you can also use a laptop version-most common for fitech is "procal").
Some issues with fitech are: primitive fuel and ve maps, product support, injectors sticking open, ecu failures, temp sensor failures and installer/user issues
MOST COMMON, (I should say most common unresolvable) issue is a tip in lean hesitation that can rarely be tuned out
fuel ve table or maps- fitech fuel map does not allow for a very detailed driveablity adjustments compared to holley or factory system. The "power adder" upgrade on the hand held does help. Procal software helps too but many have been disappointed by it
Contamination in the fuel system is a nightmare
A book isn't really necessary as each brand has a lot of how to videos and pdf instructions. If you get lucky and the particular system you receive works well with YOUR combination, you're golden! If you have tuning or QC issues, life will be hard. The learning curve will be hard but if you put the time into MANY adjustments and fuel learn/ve tables, it can work.
I build a qjet on one of my 69s with a 455 and a 240@0.050", drives like a ***** cat and makes me shake my head at a complete $$ fitech system.

 

My Sniper Quadrajet journey started with the Holley manual, I spent hours on my laptop attempting to dial in the Sniper, never got it perfect, so I hired Andrew B , projectgattagom@gmail.com, this guy is a genius on EFI, and great to work with.
my .02

 

I've heard of Andrew from Pro-Touring.com; it seems there are few tuners out there that know (or want to know) the FiTech systems. I'm tempted to replace the FiTech with a Holley Sniper2 just to have access to good tuners to help me with fine tuning. I've not had significant problems with the FiTech although the idle is has gotten more rough since my first start up 4 years ago. Initial start-up had a smooth idle with 18-20" of vacuum; now it's much rougher and vacuum is only 10-12". It's also running very rich (according to the plugs) even though the hand-held doesn't indicate a rich condition, and the throttle response is pretty sluggish. I've purchased a new O2 sensor and a wideband meter to verify the EFI readings; just gotta find some time to get in the garage.

Rodney

 

It’s most likely sluggish BECAUSE of the rich mixture. Check for exhaust leaks.
Don’t do the Sniper 2. For a few bucks more you can get the Terminator X, a much better system, for a throttle body.
I'm factory trained on Holley and I won’t do any Snipers anymore. A lot of tuners won't.

 

Mark:
It looks like the Terminator systems start at $2315; that's a whole lot more cash than the Sniper2 kits which are around $1100. Am I missing something? Another question, can I run a dead-ended fuel system with the Terminator? I currently have a Rick's resto-mod tank with a late-model Camaro LS3 in-tank fuel pump with a venturi bucket, running through a Holley 10 micron filter. It's simple, quiet and enough flow to support 400HP; which is perfect for my needs.

Rodney

 

You are trying to eliminate a 500.00 dollar carb with a 1100 dollar aftermarket efi system. You get what you pay for. My advice, get yourself a good electronic ignition like a Progression ignition or a good MSD and top it off with a quality carb. Once it is dialed in you will be money and time ahead.

 

I get the price difference. But when one doesn’t work right, what’s that worth?
And use the Corvette style regulator. It’ll mount back by the tank so it doesn’t heat the fuel. But yes you will need a return. That just works best.

 

Gary:
Going back to a carb is definitely on my short list of solutions, and one of the reasons I purchased the wideband. I'm not sure the Camaro LS3 fuel pump I currently have in the tank is the best choice to support a carb. I would need to add a regulator and return line to my fuel system and a relay to power the in-tank pump. Seems like this would move a lot of fuel back & forth from the tank to the engine compartment potentially heating up the fuel.

Rodney

 

Yeah, for the price, I should have went with my tuned and easily adjusted Qjet and Progression ignition with my AEM wideband. Would have spent the Terminator X Max money on aluminum heads, if I were to do it over. I have Holley's high output EFI 450 LPH in tank module which has an in tank bypass. The new Holley sensor, $202 on sale😥, shows 63-64 psi steady. Mark's tune was finally getting where it should be but I thought a battery clamp upside down was a good idea on my battery disconnect. Another thing I should have done was a brand new wiring harness for this 50+ year old car. I had a fire and still have some gremlins, even after gutting a bunch of stuff. I did add a MSD capacitor inline with the Mallory Hyfire box. Either way, lost the tune, which was finally seeing high 12's, low 13's WOT with 35 to 36 timing, instead of mid 12's and 31 or 32 WOT. Still not fast but good part throttle and decent WOT. Maybe the half hour drive with the new sensor? Mark's tune is conservative but so much better than the Holley generic tune, would stall 5 times often on cold start. It is still fussy first start, likes to stall or almost, then a block in, it runs perfect. Will see if actually seeing the correct fuel pressure from the sensor was the fix. Driving it one final week to work, a couple of blocks in a real city. Winter is almost here, so time is limited. It may take it on a long drive to learn again.

 

Back to the original question, the guys at HP Academy (hpacademy.com) have some really good courses. Most is general knowledge, but they have a few product-specific addendums. I don't think they've done much with Holley products however.