I have a 1970 olds 350 in my 84 delta now. I have to use the original carb HEI dist. and other emissions controls since i have emissions testing where i live. Well since this carb was set up for a 307 i'm assuming the secondary metering rods are not gonna allow enough fuel for the 350 when i go WOT and it'll probably bog down when i try. I'm finally putting the car back on the road in about a week and wanna get everything squared away with the engine.

I wanted to know what metering rods i should use for this motor? Its a stock 70 350 it came with a 2bbl originally (now 4bbl).

If i went to a junkyard could i just grab the metering rods and hanger assembly from a chevy 350 with a quadrajet? Only reason i say chevy is because its almost impossible to find Oldsmobile engines at the JY.

My current hanger says P in case anyone was wondering.

 

You can use secondary metering rods from practically any qjet. Chevy or not.

Keep the Stock DD rods around though for when you go to emissions.

 

Keep us informed of the swap and emissions progress - that was a good engine choice!

What you ~might~ do, right before inspection, is to pay to just have the emissions test run on it and see if it passes. Here in TX it is about 50 bucks. Reason for the madness is that if it fails, you are just out the money and the state does not know and you guverment will not play tug-a-war with your title if you cannot get it to pass in a certain amount of time.
In TX, that would be my plan of attack, but luckily here, cars older than 25 years is exempt from emissions.

 

Thanks for the information guys. I went to the JY and puled a carb off a 307 powered 86 Cadillac fleetwood for 25 bucks and changed out the metering rods and hanger for a (M) hanger assembly from a cutlass. The reason i changed carbs is because the previous owner tinkered with the original carb too much and the adjustments were all out of wack, and i figured it'd just be easier to find an "unmolested quadrajet" and start fresh. She runs great now, no more bogging and a nice smooth idle. Goes to WOT and my secondary's actually open now. So i'm happy with it.

Hopefully it will be registered in about a week so I'll keep you guys updated on how i do emissions wise. I might put on a new cat converter right before the test to increase my chances of passing, not to mention the 1 on the car right now might be shot cause my old 307 ran too rich and and had problems with the valve seals

Since i installed the HEI dist. off the 307 does that mean i should use acdelco r46sz spark plugs like the stock 307 used?

I was also told to change the r46sz gap from 0.80 to 0.65 for the 350 swap is that true? If not what should i use and what gap?

 

Use the r46sz plugs gapped at .060"

The .080 information on the fan shroud was later recalled.

Also, if you are able, use a factory catalytic converter instead of an aftermarket one. The aftermarkets don't do much. I'd go back to that Cadillac and take that too.

 

Okay cool thank you, guess I'll do my spark plugs today and get it out of the way, only have a few things left on my list to do before i can drive it down the road.

Also what should the base timing be set at? Since i am using the 307's dist. i have heard 20 degrees or something along the lines of that for this set up, but maybe 1 of you guys can shine some light on that.

I still have the cat on the car not sure if its an oem factory cat, since i had a garage do the exhaust 3 years ago they might have just used a universal.
I would go back to the JY and get the cat off the Cadillac but NJ junkyards cut off the cats and fuel tanks as soon as they get the cars in there.

So I'm gonna try to wing it and just take it to inspection and see what happens if i fail i'm gonna go out and get a new cat and see if they helps any.

Luckily as far as i know in jersey they wont try to play games with my title or anything like that if i keep failing. Last year when i was stilll driving it before the trans blew i kept failing emissions, lol i took that car in every day 1-3 times a day i would go up the road adjust the carb and then go right back and try again 1 time i got really close but never enough to pass. I was always hoping they'd get tired of seeing me and my car and just slap a sticker on unfortunately neither happened instead the 1 time the lady revved the engine too hard and blew my lower rad hose, and i had to limp home

 

I'd recommend you buy the chassis service manual for the instructions on tuning your carburetor and setting your timing.

It's an odd process for sure with the primitive computer works within.

 

Yup i was planning on getting one. I been trying to find one online for a good price from a reputable source, since I'm using a credit card for purchase i don't want that information to fall into the wrong hands