So, the original 350 in my 72 Cutlass needs a timing chain. I should have done this when I had it in for service with the water pump off, but I was broke at the time with all the other cost involved fixing the A/C, etc. What do I need to watch out for, and can I do this job by myself?

 

You can probably do this. But none of us know your knowledge level as well as you. A factory service manual is a real plus here. This is actually several little jobs in one.

Here is some things to watch out for;

Your gonna need a dampner tool to remove and re-install the harmonic dampner.

You are probably gonna need a gear puller to get the crank timing gear off. Not the same puller as above.

I would suggest a timing cover gasket set. This will have the front cover crank seal and the front oil pan seal as well as the cover gasket. Might as well install a new thermostat too.

The timing chain cover might be a little difficult to get off and back on the dowels protruding from the block. You might need to loosen the first few bolts of the oil pan.

Notate which bolts go in which holes, put them right back where they came from. I think there is a spacer used in conjunction with the timing tab. Don't lose it or forget it.

Install the new chain and gears just like the old one was. Note the location of the dots. It might be a good idea to align the dots at tdc on #1 before dissasembly for reference.

Don't forget to re-install the fuel pump eccentric on the cam gear.
Don't forget to re-install the oil slinger.

It would really suck, if you forget those things Have fun!

 

Try this link

 

Thanks for all the help so far!

When I go to buy the chain/gear set, will a Comp Magnum double roller set for Oldsmobile fit right in, or should I buy something OEM spec? I don't want to have to do this job again.

Also, is there a special socket I need for turning the crankshaft? Comp mentions some kind of brand-specific socket in the directions they have for installing the chain/gear set on their site.

 

That chain will work just fine, and of course a factory style will too.

When installing any double roller chain there is an outside chance that the chain will rub on the fuel pump arm. If thats the case, simply file/grind the holes in the fuel pump to shift it over a 1/16" or so, then tighten it up. No big deal.

 

If you get the type w/three notches on the crank gear, the 4 degree advanced position will give you some more low-end power, and it's FREE!!
I know GM started retarding cams during the 'polution years' but I don't know exactly when.