crankshaft modifications for viton seal 72 350
#1
crankshaft modifications for viton seal 72 350
Hi Guys
Just wondering if someone can help I am going to install a vition seal kit instead of a rope type setup as per original I am aware the crank needs to be machined to do this has anyone done this and know what specs are required to complete this task
Thanks in advance
Walter
Just wondering if someone can help I am going to install a vition seal kit instead of a rope type setup as per original I am aware the crank needs to be machined to do this has anyone done this and know what specs are required to complete this task
Thanks in advance
Walter
#3
And since someone will certainly bring up the grooves machined in the crank, they do NOT need to be ground off. In fact, you WANT the grooves, as they serve to fling the oil away from the seal. Use a little logic here - if the seal ran over the grooves, they would chew up the stock rope seal in minutes. As you can see from this picture, the grooves are just forward of the seal surface, which is intentional.
#5
#7
#9
And since someone will certainly bring up the grooves machined in the crank, they do NOT need to be ground off. In fact, you WANT the grooves, as they serve to fling the oil away from the seal. Use a little logic here - if the seal ran over the grooves, they would chew up the stock rope seal in minutes. As you can see from this picture, the grooves are just forward of the seal surface, which is intentional.
you have no idea what you are talking about. The main oil slinger is the larger diameter ring just inboard of the seal. The grooves are there to allow some oil to weep into the factory rope seal, if not, the rope would burn up.
the grooves are cut so they are halfway into the Center of rope and half out(towards inside of engine)
when changing to a two piece rubber type seal, the new lip rods right in the Center of the grooves. They are not necessary on a rubber type seal but also do not affect the seals job.
here’s a pic clearly showing the larger diameter slinger at bottom of pic and the new seal lip location…right in the Center of the grooves
your pics are awful…you can’t see what’s really going on.
you have no idea what you are talking about. The main oil slinger is the larger diameter ring just inboard of the seal. The grooves are there to allow some oil to weep into the factory rope seal, if not, the rope would burn up.
the grooves are cut so they are halfway into the Center of rope and half out(towards inside of engine)
when changing to a two piece rubber type seal, the new lip rods right in the Center of the grooves. They are not necessary on a rubber type seal but also do not affect the seals job.
here’s a pic clearly showing the larger diameter slinger at bottom of pic and the new seal lip location…right in the Center of the grooves
your pics are awful…you can’t see what’s really going on.
#10
In your last pic showing the lip of the seal facing the outer direction. Seems to me the seal should have the lip facing the inside of the engine because crankcase pressure should force the seal tighter against the crank unlike the pic showing the seal to the outside of the engine allowing the crankcase pressure to blow right by the seal lip.
#11
In your last pic showing the lip of the seal facing the outer direction. Seems to me the seal should have the lip facing the inside of the engine because crankcase pressure should force the seal tighter against the crank unlike the pic showing the seal to the outside of the engine allowing the crankcase pressure to blow right by the seal lip.
no, it’s facing inward. See the #5 main bearing? It’s pointing to it
#12
In your last pic showing the lip of the seal facing the outer direction. Seems to me the seal should have the lip facing the inside of the engine because crankcase pressure should force the seal tighter against the crank unlike the pic showing the seal to the outside of the engine allowing the crankcase pressure to blow right by the seal lip.
#13
The seal is installed correctly in that photo. The crank flange is at the top of the picture. The problem is that the crank is further rearward in the block than it should be. Note how the ring between the #5 main and the seal is nowhere near centered in the groove in the block.
your pic is the same as far as where the oil slinger is in its cavity
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; May 11th, 2023 at 08:26 AM.
#14
The oil slinger does not ride cenetred in its cavity, it’s rearward. Almost touching the main housing .
here’s another shot of a stock , never apart rope seal and the oil slinger .
as you can see…it’s way rearward. All other caps still on. You can also see the grooves end half way into the rope
here’s another shot of a stock , never apart rope seal and the oil slinger .
as you can see…it’s way rearward. All other caps still on. You can also see the grooves end half way into the rope
#16
Testy! Testy! No need to be nasty! Yes, the seal rides on the grooves (and it works just fine). Yes, it is prudent to polish the journal. The only reason to machine that surface would be if it were damaged in some way and if that were the case, I would probably be looking for a replacement crankshaft!
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