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Yes, the 12 point connecting rod nuts are Oldsmobile factory equipment. From what I see of the pistons, they also appear to be factory equip. I have used the Y-block seal in the 330 series motor with no problems., Try holding the main cap bolts in place in the bearing cap and tapping back and forth on them with your rubber mallet to unseat the main bearing cap....shall probably be kinda awkward working from underneath unfortunately. Good luck!
Yes, the 12 point connecting rod nuts are Oldsmobile factory equipment. From what I see of the pistons, they also appear to be factory equip. I have used the Y-block seal in the 330 series motor with no problems., Try holding the main cap bolts in place in the bearing cap and tapping back and forth on them with your rubber mallet to unseat the main bearing cap....shall probably be kinda awkward working from underneath unfortunately. Good luck!
Thanks for all the help! Using the bolts as levers I was able to get the cap off. Pictures below. That seal is a lot smaller diameter than I had envisioned. Hope I can get it out of there. Sneaky peak is delayed in mail due to weather but should be here today. It looks like maybe there are small horizontal seals next to the thrust groove from the factory?
Minor scratches in main bearing?
Last edited by getmygoat; Jan 20, 2024 at 09:43 AM.
I have a drawer full of dental picks. They kinda/sorta want stupid money for them - makes sense I guess if you're actually using them in a dental office. But, if you have a nearby flea-market, you can pick them up for ~$0.20/piece. You might be able to find similar devices in plastic.
I have a drawer full of dental picks. They kinda/sorta want stupid money for them - makes sense I guess if you're actually using them in a dental office. But, if you have a nearby flea-market, you can pick them up for ~$0.20/piece. You might be able to find similar devices in plastic.
No seals in those slots that are perpendicular to the crank. That's just accumulated muck.
Thanks for the info. Helpful!
Finally got timing cover off. Looks like original timing chain in very good shape. No cracks in nylon. I'm inclined to leave it. I need to bound this project somewhere. Will likely need to replace intake gasket next... this looks ok for another 30k miles (car has 50k original miles (unconfirmed but appears that way)? Does have a little play in the chain but I assume its average for 50k miles. This isn't a race car.
Looks like original timing chain in very good shape. No cracks in nylon. I'm inclined to leave it. I need to bound this project somewhere. Will likely need to replace intake gasket next... this looks ok for another 30k miles (car has 50k original miles (unconfirmed but appears that way)? Does have a little play in the chain but I assume its average for 50k miles. This isn't a race car.
Wow. Just don't see original nylon & chain in such excellent condition. I'd say that's far less than normal operating wear @ 50K miles. That car was babied. I wouldn't touch them.
BTW, anyone know where I can buy the gasket that goes between oil pump and bearing cap? Doesn't seem to be available except on ebay need to buy 5 of them for $30.
BTW, anyone know where I can buy the gasket that goes between oil pump and bearing cap? Doesn't seem to be available except on ebay need to buy 5 of them for $30.
Now I see from prior threads that there is no gasket from the factory. Guess I can avoid that $30 for 5 copper gaskets - although it does sound intriguing!
Now I see from prior threads that there is no gasket from the factory. Guess I can avoid that $30 for 5 copper gaskets - although it does sound intriguing!
I was struggling to identify which gasket you were referring to because I don't recall replacing or finding a gasket when I replaced both my oil pump & main bearing seal.
You have the timing case open. That cam gear LOOKS OEM. Do not trust it. The nylon is COOKED/BURNED. Replace it now - and consider it CHEAP insurance! You can get both gears and chain for <"C-Note."
Starting to lose confidence that I can get the old seal out. Tried grabbing with a pair of small needle nose plyers, just comes apart. I pushed from the other side with a punch, compacted the seal down some (like you would do using Oldsmobile's recommended method. I'm pushing pretty hard and not moving the seal so I assume even if I got a good grip on the other side it still might not move given the amount of force I'm already applying when pushing it.
Just to confirm - have people been able to get the seal out by just removing the one rear cap? Wondering if I should just pack it like the service manual says before I damage the seal too much.
Last edited by getmygoat; Jan 26, 2024 at 10:16 AM.
Nope, even out of car, I had to loosen all the main caps. I actually bent a round file to tap the old rope seal out. The Ford 292 seal went in like butter, the AMC seal is more difficult to install.
Hey all, just figured I'd provide an update on this project. I was stuck on getting the old seal out but a mechanically inclined neighbor who works at the Toyota engine plant around here came over and saved my butt. I received a "sneaky pete" in the mail but I couldn't get it to dig into the seal. I tried pounding the seal out with a punch but that just mashed the seal deeper into the groove. He came over and in about 10 minutes was able to extract the seal with the pete. The handle of the pete actually broke off but he was able to use vice grips and pull it out (pic below). I was happy.
Today I installed the new seal. Figured I'd show you guys some pics to see if there is anything obvious wrong but I put the lip of the seal toward the front as shown and lubed the seal with oil/grease. Offset the ends a little. Threading the seal up into the block side was tight and a little bit of the backside of the seal did peel off as I forced the seal up but it didn't see enough to worry about.
Now in the process of buttoning up things. I put the bearing cap on and oil pump on. There's a lot that can go wrong with the oil pan seal so trying to triple check everything there. Thanks again for all your help thus far!
Use a straight-edge along edge of oil pan, ensure its level/straight before it goes back on. Apply a very light amount of sealant, just enough to be tacky enough to hold the seal in place while you install the oil pan. Do NOT use more sealant than necessary it will cause the seal to slide right out when you begin to tighten the small bolts. You don't need gobs of seal. Apply just a little more sealant around each of the corners. I learned the first time the hard way. Just saying.
Hey all, just figured I'd provide an update on this project. I was stuck on getting the old seal out but a mechanically inclined neighbor who works at the Toyota engine plant around here came over and saved my butt. I received a "sneaky pete" in the mail but I couldn't get it to dig into the seal. I tried pounding the seal out with a punch but that just mashed the seal deeper into the groove. He came over and in about 10 minutes was able to extract the seal with the pete. The handle of the pete actually broke off but he was able to use vice grips and pull it out (pic below). I was happy.
I'm going to assume you're in Huntsville, because you are otherwise in Buffalo, West By God Virginia! Toyota engine guys know their ****.
Wow. Just don't see original nylon & chain in such excellent condition. I'd say that's far less than normal operating wear @ 50K miles. That car was babied. I wouldn't touch them.
I actually had two 76 350's with near perfect nylon cam gears and acceptable stretch. Both in the 130,000 mile range. Honestly, for a US made timing set is $25.99 from Summit, their brand, just do it.
I actually had two 76 350's with near perfect nylon cam gears and acceptable stretch. Both in the 130,000 mile range. Honestly, for a US made timing set is $25.99 from Summit, their brand, just do it.
That's remarkable in the grand scheme - and, I understand the point of cost (I like double rollers).
Just a quick update on this project. Started it up on the weekend - and yesterday crawled under. It was running maybe 10 minutes.. has a drop of oil on the flywheel cover and another on one of the bolts.
Rats. Looks like its going to still be leaking. Will drive more this weekend to see how bad it is. Discouraging as it was a lot of work to swap that seal under the car.
