Today I noticed a steady stream of coolant leaking from under the dash on the drivers side. Any ideas on where the coolant could be leaking from. I have attached pictures of the leaking. This is for a 70 Cutlass Supreme 350 w/AC.

Thanks,

 

More than likely heater core is rusted out and causing the leak.

Fast fix, remove heater hoses from water pump and at the firewall in the engine compartment and cut one hose in half and use one of those pieces of hose to connect to the out put nipple on the water pump and connect the other end of the hose to the input nipple on the water pump and make sure the hose doesn't kink off flow.

Or you could just go to your local parts store and buy those little hose block off caps but they are only good for about a year.

The fast fix method is best when this happens to you out on the road somewhere and there are no part stores open or in sight. This is always a good reason to carry an empty washer fluid bottle along with ya at all times in the trunk.

 

So let me see if I understand this properly since im not that savy wrenching on cars. So im disconnecting the heater core hoses at the firewall and relocating the heater hose thats connected to the water pump to ?? , have a look at the picture I just attached.

thanks again for the help.

 

Yes, just take either hose and follow that red line you drew in the second picture to connect it to whichever place it wasn't connected before.
You can leave the other hose connected to the heater core if you'd like - you can even connect it to the other heater core tube if you want to.

The tough part, of course, is replacing the bad heater core.

- Eric

 

Thanks Eric for clarifying this.

 

Also how much time does this give me until I decide to replace the heater core.

 

Until it gets cold out.

- Eric

 

HAHA,, nice

 

Keep in mind one hose is 5/8" and one is 3/4", so the fit will either be loose or tight, depending on which one you move. Also, avoid putting much stress on the heater valve at the back of the engine. If it is old, fatigued, or very rusty, it could break on ya.

Therefor, i would prefer to move the 5/8" one from the heater valve and connect it at the water pump. Remove the long 3/4" one completely. Use coolant to lube the inside of the hose and outside the connection of the water pump and you should be able to coax it on (providing it is long enough (I think it will be)).

 

Thanks for all your help guys I really appreciate it.

 

Wait till the fall to replace it

I drove a car in the winter with no HC. It was only 20 degrees driving home from work, but with moving, yeah I won't be doing it again

 

I have mine bypassed right now cuz of a leak, I just run the hose coming from the waterpump right to the inlet on the back of the engine. I just completely removed the shorter hose that normally would go from the firewall to the inlet on the back of the engine. It's been like that since last summer:-). Of course, my car is a summer toy, not a daily driver. So I don't need heat....

 

We meet again...THAT'S FUNNY!!!

 

Any reason why the heater control valve vacuum hose would start to leak after doing the heater core bypass.


thanks again.

 

Just because it was time.

Do you mean that water is coming out through the vacuum line (and going through the A/C controls and into the engine)?
Or do you mean that the vacuum line won't hold vacuum anymore?

Either way, time for a new valve.

- Eric

 

Theres coolant leaking out of the vacuum hose, and leaks on to the intake and down to the floor.

 

You'll need a new valve - about $25 from your local parts store.

If you were going to leave the heater disconnected, you could just replace it with a piece of hose nipple.

- Eric

 

If you plan to leave the heater disconnected, simply insert a plug in the heater valve hole and a cap on the water pump. Factory heater delete cars did this with no problems.

 

So I replaced the heater control valve and I noticed that the vacuum hose on the back of the valve has a tear in it and needs replacing. Any one know where i can find a replacement.

thanks

 

Can you just cut it shorter?

- Eric

 

I tried cutting it but the nipple on the valve is to large to allow the cut end slip over. The original hose had a larger openening then tappers off.

 

Thats because it was stretched over the nipple for so long. If the new valve has the same size nipple as the old valve, cut the hose a little shorter, dab a little water (or hairspray) on the nipple (to act as a lubricant), and shove it on! Hairspray will allow it to slide on easier and will help glue it in place also.

 

To prolong the life of your heater core, it is a simple modification to install manual valves on the heater hoses so that during the summer months, you can manually turn off water flow to the heater core. Then replace the heater valve on the manifold with a simple nipple and viola! When winter hits, you open the valves & turn on the heater...

This is of couse what you do AFTER you replace the heater core

 

HAIR SPRAY ?!?

I just spit on it, and it works fine.

My wife would KILL me if she caught me with her hair spray working on the car!

Unless, of course, you mean you've got your OWN hair spray...

- Eric

 

Rob: "Er, uh...its for the potato canon! Yeah, potato canon, that's it" lol!

 

Thanks again guys. I just ended up forcing it on. Seems to be working now with no leaks.