I have been looking at different options for converting over to electronic ignition. I am really impressed with the PerTronix Ignitor II. Any advice/suggestions on this component.
What coil would work well with the PerTronix and any suggestions on plugs and wires. I just bought my 72 Cutlass two weeks ago. It has the 350 with Rochester Quad and automatic transmission. Thanks for any advice.

 

Basically these are points replacement units, your performance will be the same. You can use the Pertronix with both a stock or aftermarket coil. Their coils work fine. Use the stock plugs and wires. All you need to do is follow the instructions.

 

Thanks for the response. It's is great to have this forum, that car enthusiast can share info!
I'll update the forum with all of my modifications, and how they work out.

 

Just keep in mind that if you use a factory system like HEI, parts will be available at an auto parts store. If you use an aftermarket system like Pertronix, any replacement parts have to come from them (for however long you have to wait for them).

 

The ignitor 3 is the fanciest with supposed multi spark in the lower range and a setable rev limiter. I am using ther HEI module version, works fine. I had it fail under warranty, I was getting less than 12 volts. They have matching coils, Ignitor, Ignitor 2 and Ignitor 3, each one has more bolts and less resistance as the series goes up, probably the safest way to go.

 

Unfortunately that is less true every year, I think two out of a half dozen had the 4 pin HEI module in stock. I would imagine there are also very few parts stores that have points on the shelf either. The point is, I carry a trunk full of spare parts because I know few will have parts for my old junk.

 

Get the one with the most bolts, for sure...

Sorry, olds, I couldn't resist!

 

Yeah, I've had the same experience. Try getting parts to rebuilt an alternator. That's why I primarily use RockAuto these days. I also keep a stock of common replacement parts on the shelf.

 

I have been looking at these, they are kind of pricey and they also present the same parts problem Joe mentioned. but the adjustability of them make it very attractive.

https://progressionignition.com/

 

Bad idea. There's no vacuum connection (nor any MAP sensor) so these are essentially mechanical advance only. You can get exactly the same effect by locking out the vac advance canister on a stock distributor and buying $10 or $15 worth of advance springs. At least the CCC distributor uses a MAP sensor in addition to the RPM sensor to select the correct advance from the look-up table.

MSD at least has a version of this with a built in MAP sensor. I don't think they make one for Olds however.

 

If you watch the video. There is a vac connection on the bottom of the dist for load sensing. It will even retard timing under boost.

 

OK, I just read the instructions and didn't see any vacuum connection. Thanks. Still an insane amount of money.

 

I did say they were pricey. Lol

 

I have decided to go with PerTronix Ignitor II with lobe sensor. I also want to add high voltage coil. My reason for the swap is more for reliablity over performance with solid state over points. My reason for asking about what coil to use is; on Summitts website a reviewer of the Ignitor II said to make sure to use a low resistance coil.
I'm not sure what is considered low resistance.

 

Use the Flamethrower coils recommended in the instructions. You can use the .45 ohm coil pn 60104 vs 45011 .6 ohm oil filled if you want the higher voltage, you won't see much difference between the 2.

 

As stated by olds in Post #5. Which ever they sell as their lowest resistance is the item you should use. Based upon olds suggestion the higher voltage are the lowest resistance.

 

Yeah, I guess I can't go wrong with the Flame thrower 2 coil. Appreciate the advice on the resistance.

 

i used to use Petronix;, had no issues with it; but I switched back to points for the reasons Joe mentioned. I also keep a spare set of points in my trunk and really can not imagine them failing out right, like the Petronix can.

 

If I were to go back to Pretonics, and I'm not, I would order a spare module to go with it. You may go a 100,000 miles and not have any trouble or you can be like me and have it puke and quit in the most unhandy place in the word. I now carry a spare set of points in all my rigs now..... Tedd

 

Ive used pertronix in other vehicles, same as above seems like they either work fine or theyre problematic until you switch to something else.

mycar has an hei in it. If i traveled further w my car i would throw my spare hei in the trunk, i rarely go more than 50 miles from home w this car so i leave the spares at home.

 

Tedd, that is exactly what I have done. Somehow I caught one on Amazon of all places for like 20 bucks. I figure as long as I have it I will never need. A Pertronix is a lot easier to replace on the side of the road than a set of point with the distributor with those damn clips on the cap. If I went back to points I would go to a later distributor with the window for adjustment.

 

I just installed the Pertronix 11 and ignitor 11 coil. Instructions for the coil says to bypass the ballast or low resistance wire to the positive side of coil. My car... stock 71 455 in a 442 has no ballast but has 2 wires to the + side of coil. one yellow and one black. what or which color wire would be the resistance wire? Thanks!

 

The black wire is the resistance wire, the yellow is the resistance bypass wire from the starter solenoid and provides full battery voltage to the coil+ for points ignitions during cranking. You may or may not need this wire when you replace the resistance wire.

 

Unless the electronic ignition is powered from a totally separate source that provides 12V in both the START and RUN positions, you WILL need the yellow wire. Without it, there will be no voltage to the ignition when the key is in the START position.

 

The Pertronix needs full voltage not only during starting but also during operation. that is why they want you to bypass the resistance wire, which helps protect the points

 

So I need to use/leave the yellow wire for 12V start and remove/replace the black wire then for constant 12 volt when engine is running. does anyone know where the other end of the black wire is connected? On the starter? I dont want to have to remove all the electrical tape around the wire harness at and below firewall and behind engine and brake booster etc. to chase it down. Thanks you guys are great.

 

It runs to the bulk head connector on the firewall. You can cut the black wire out of the crimped terminal with the yellow and cap it. Then run a new 12ga wire from the IGN terminal at the fuse block to the coil+. Connect it, the yellow, and the red Pertronix power wire together at the coil+

 

56 was the first to use the windowed cap and everything should work just like what you have in the car now....Tedd

 

Actually I think it was 1957, in Chevys, not sure about other makes.

 

I cut the black wire. routed new wire from ignition from fuse block. Got 14 now at the coil when running! Was 10-11. Thanks! Car still isnt running correctly so more work to-do.....

 

Make sure you cap or tape up that black wire as it has power whenever the key is on.

 

Probably worth checking your timing.

 

Got 14 now while running. Thanks!

 

repositioned the Distribuer and retimed. runs great now.

 

black wire is taped good.

 

Timing set 12'. Book says 10' but with the custom cam in i....t it likes 12'. running great now. I was almost ready to put the points and old coil back in. You guys are great here.THANKS!

 

Pretty sure it was 56 for Oldsmobile as that was a popular hot rod mod in the early days....Tedd

 

Tedd, you are correct sir. Chevy did go to it in 57.

 

I'm going to try this when I rebuild the engine. Awesome control over all phases of timing.