Awesome. Glad you found something to work and get your lamp driver fixed again.

The pinout on the C1384 is indeed 1)Emitter 2)Collector 3)Base (ECB) where the 2N5551 would line up the same as the OEM. Which is 1)Emitter 2)Base 3)Collector (EBC). Know the pinouts and any differences as mentioned.

So with this list, we should have components on the card of:
(from top to bottom in the picture above)
10Kohm resistor, 5% tol.
3.6Kohm resistor, 5% tol.
16Kohm resistor, 10% tol.

C1384 or 2N5551 old style NPN amplifying transistor.

270 pF capacitor, 100vdc, Y5S heat rating (based on B 271K oem number). Close equivalent- Vishay capacitor part number D271K20Y5PH63L6R

Diode- Going out on a limb here and use a general purpose 1N4001 1A, 50v diode should function well. The factory numbers don't cross anything I can find. (The 1N4001 is also a good choice for the magnetic field diode for the electrical connector on the 80s A/C compressor connectors.)

 

Hi friends,

Only today I got to test the repaired circuit. Bulb is dim because I used a drained-out battery.

Here's a video (link below)


Circuit diagram. Touching the terminal with the probe replicates what the ECU does internally at G.

On the module

A - not used
B - 12V + (positive) of battery
C - Probe connected to 12V battery - negative, touches this terminal (see video)
D - connected to 12V battery - (negative)
E - connected to 12V bulb (use low power dash indicator bulb). Other side of the bulb is connected to 12V + positive of battery
F - not used