mike623

Also would the nitrous be safer since your only using it when you need it, unlike the boost which happening everytime you drive it?

InfoJunkie

X2 unless you want to do a rebuild sooner than expected.
Nitrous will give some extra power at the track and still leave the driveability and milage on the street. More power leads to more expense at the track to run consistant.

InfoJunkie

Grand National was turbo charged. Bonneville SSEI was supercharged. Both very safe vehicles. No nitrous does not blow up as in F & F. They are all safe if used the way they were meant to be used.
Boost increases with rpm so under normal driving there is no noticable boost increase

mike623

So you think a small shot of nitrous(75) would be ok? It would be more for pleasure than track. It would just be nice to have a ace up the sleeve should the opprtunity present it self. Anyone know the proper kit for something like that? I have a stock four barrel intake with a edelbrock 600. Are they fairly simple to install?

InfoJunkie

Most newbies with an Ace up the sleeve use it every hand. Make sure you have access to a local filling station and a deep wallet(depending on usage).Also check local laws.

mike623

So what is the correct kit for my setup? And will this trash my motor?

InfoJunkie

75hp carburated kit. There are quite a few companies that make these kits and I don't want to pick a certain one. Check out the place you normally buy your performance parts for the kits they sell. Buy the part number of the cam it looks like Jegs.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...arentProductId=
This one is just a suggestion if you have a Qjet carb. This is the style of kit you need. No it will not trash your engine if used with care and installing following ALL the directions and recommendations.
Check with your local performance store if they still exist or the machine shop. They can match that price if they want to. I know I would have when I had my shop.

cutlassefi

At the rear wheels? 175.

Look online at NOS and all the rest. A 75hp kit is doable.

InfoJunkie

Get so used to talking engine HP then have to switch to rear wheels

167 @ wheels and that is just a guess no calculations involved at all.

http://partssourceinfo.20m.com/main.html

Scroll til you see nitrous systems then follow the link to get to website.

captjim

Here is a link to my mild 9 to 1 355 with cast pistons,
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=28012
I ran a less than 100 shot, 53/57 jets with an E-brock kit. No issues, can ran 12.7 at 103 shifting at 4800 rpm. Also, nitrous is all about cylinder pressure, the low Cr actually gives you more margin for error.

Nitrous is addictive, I would not consider it a great idea on a street car.

Tune what you have. Ram air may not be a factor but cold air is, free HP. Make an OAI system. Curve the dist, tune the carb, basis stuff. What are the cam specs? Did you degree it? Gear?

EDIT, I just looked up the specs on that cam. 218 @ .050 is a bit much for a small block powered heavy car with 7.8 to 1 and not much gear. I would chooses another.

You could pull the heads, mill them, then use a .028 gasket and bump up the Cr a bit. May help, depending on cam and where it is in at.

mike623

I thaught about going with under the bumper induction. It's a little late to switch the cam since the motor is already installed. I might put the 3.42 posi out of my formula in the cutlass later. As far as I know the cam was installed staight up. Will that cam work well the nitrous?

cutlassefi

No you need a dual pattern cam on a wider lobe sep for nitrous.

captjim

I agree. Generally speaking, cams with wider lobes (112 and 114) do better, otherwise you just blow the pressure out due to the overlap. Might not be much of an issue with that small a shot.

cutlassefi

[quote=captjim;232410]I agree. Generally speaking, cams with wider lobes (112 and 114) do better, otherwise you just blow the pressure out due to the overlap. Might not be much of an issue with that small a shot.[/quote]

You're right if he stays small he could probably get away with it. And that cam will give him more midrange than a dual pattern, although it's about 10 degrees too big for his comp imo.

mike623

This might just be a dumb question, if the 350 is bored .020 over does that make it 4.077? If so I am having an issue finding pistons. All I found so far are the cast dished style pistons. I am at the point now were I am thinking I might as well yank the motor back out and swap pistons.

mike623

Or are there some better heads to use to lower the compression? That way I could leave the motor in the car and swap out heads.

mike623

Sorry, I dont know what I was thinking. I meant to say raise the compression.

InfoJunkie

http://www.probeindustries.com/Produ...Show=TechSpecs

They wont be cheap. Forged, thin rings, flat top 4.087.
Maybe for your next rebuild.

captjim

Not really, but you can mill your heads down to a 60cc chamber. That along with a .028 gasket will bump Cr up a full point to 8.6 to 1 +/-. You will still have the pistons sitting down in the hole .040-.050, no fixing that.

mike623

Milling that much wont trash the heads?

captjim

Nope, you can go to 58cc, but it will require some milling of the intake and different pushrods.

mike623

If I mill the heads to a 60cc chamber will I have to have the intake matched and shorter push rods? Sorry just want to make im understanding this correctly.

captjim

Hard to say on the intake, mill the heads then see how it fits. As to pushrods, I always budget in a new set (like $70 new), most guys overlook proper rocker arm geometry.

68Tom

Mike, to be honest, if I were you, I'd just keep the engine in there as you have it and drive the heck out it. Then, while you're still driving and enjoying your car, start compiling parts to build an engine as you want it. I'd get with either a good reputable engine builder or get with someone here on the boards who knows Olds performance and what will and will not work well together with an Olds block, intake, and heads.

You might end up making all these changes to your current engine, and because of your cam, heads, pistons, etc, it still might not run as you would have hoped, and will have spent a ton of time and money and getting nowhere.

If I had your car and my choice, I think I might build up a hot W-31 engine. This way you're keeping within the Cutlass original 350 ci. specs, but have a damn fine engine that not only sounds great, but has tons of performance.

Anyway, jmho....

mike623

Tom that sounds good. The car actually still has quite bit power compared to before I rebuilt it. I do have a question for you all yesterday I took it for a drive and got on it from a stand still and it did fine for a second and then it was like it shut it self down. It did stay running and only took a second to get back to normal. Tonight when I took the car to the gas station the oil pressure would jump back and forth from around 45 to 55 or 60 at idle. It did not jump around before. I did change the oil yesterday, it did not jump back and forth untill today. My 1970 cutlass 350 also did the whole weird deal when I floored it going down the highway the other day, it did not have the oil pressure problem though.

Thanks for all of the responses.

Aceshigh

Where are you pulling this data from to verify??

I have looked and looked and looked and every Oldsmobile viable source says 64cc.

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofhed.htm#Heads 1964 - 1990

captjim

That is because that 64cc keeps getting repeated. Factory blueprint spec might be 64cc, but the real world number is closer to 68 like Warhead stated. Every older 350 head that I have measured was 67-68, which becomes almost 70 after a valve job and bowl clean up.

Aceshigh

Kinda hard to believe all these websites and the blueprint specs are off without a legit source proving it no ??

If these "Legit" sources can't even determine the correct CC's , then God only knows how much other information is FUBAR'd.
That's not very encouraging, if it's truly the case.

cutlassefi

I've done 1 each set of 5, 6, and 7 heads in the last 3 to 4 years. All were alot closer to 68-70cc than 64cc. I cc'd them myself.

380 Racer

I have had 2 sets of 7s and a pair of 6s that I cc'd...... 68-69ccs. 442.com is just plain wrong on this.

MDchanic

If that's true, then what is the volume of #8's (allegedly 79cc's) ?

- Eric

BlackGold

When the factory specs are different than the real parts, it's usually because they were playing games with the NHRA to give their cars an advantage in the stock classes. The smaller specs for combustion chambers and deck heights allowed NHRA stockers to build their Olds engines with higher compression ratios than how they really came from the factory.

When a you mash the pedal, the car takes off for several seconds, then falls flat on its face, it's usually a fuel delivery problem. Look for obstructions, bad pump, vapor lock, etc.

When you mash the pedal and it immediately falls flat on its face, it's usually because the secondary air valve is opening too quickly, due to too big an orifice in the vacuum break (or a bad diaphragm) and/or too loose a setting on the wrap spring. Or it could be a bad accelerator pump.

Of course, a short- or open-circuit in the ignition system can sometimes be jossled loose by sudden acceleration, causing a stumble.

mike623

Just to clear something up I didnt have any bowl work done. I just had the 3 angle valve job and the heads milled .015. The heads were milled before from what the head guy said. So I am just going to assume they were cleaned up so that would be anywhere from .005 to .015 right? So assuming that the heads were 68cc to start minus a clean up of .005 which may have more, plus my .015 thats possibly 3cc to 5cc taken off which would set me from 63cc to 65 cc. And if the heads were 64cc stock it could be anywhere from 59cc to 61 cc now. I know the 3 angle valve job will add some, but not as much since the bowl work was not done right?

captjim

It just reinforces that fact that you need to measure everything. Most guys over-estimate their Cr. Read this if you want to,
http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthread.php?t=36717

Warhead

I've seen that, and it is wrong for the #5,6 and 7.
68cc's.
That is what I got when I cc'd them.
My #5 heads with 1.995's were cut .030, and they still came in at 65 cc's.
I'm skeptical about the #3,4, and D heads chamber sizes too.

Jim