My car is stock motor with AC and was wondering if I would see any benefit from a cold air intake. I am currently considering this one on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECTRE-728-...dWLQYV&vxp=mtr
I figured I should be able to fabricate some sort of scoop similar to what was offered on the w30 between the headlight housing.

 

Its always good to get fresh/cool air into the intake verses the hot air in the engine compartment. I see a lot of those at car shows.

 

I've seen kit's like this where they replace the highbeams with the intake part of the tube. They also make a chrome bezel from the headlight housing for it to make it look nice. I can't remember for the life of me the name of the company but think they are based in Canada.

 

The rule of thumb is that you get about 1 HP increase for every 7-10 degree reduction in inlet air temp. Assuming you're normally sucking 160 deg underhood air and get 70 deg outside air instead, that's potentially 10 HP. Of course, that assumes the carb is properly jetted for the denser air and the air doesn't heat up while passing through those long tubes. Real world increase is probably closer to 5 HP.

 

I personally do not like those kits. I find them cheap and tacky. I plan on making my own set up using the top and bottom of a normal open air cleaner unit with an insert that would look less bulky and would let me use the factory style outside air induction tubes used on 69 and older oldsmobiles along with the spun aluminum air bells spectre sells. Also chrome is a horrible adition to the kit as it holds heat. It should be a satin or flat black to dissipate it much better.

Essentially im making a 3 inch tall insert to fit where the air filter element will fit. then im buying 4 inch oval exhaust pipe for the snorkel intakes. You butt weld the 3 inch wide band then cut the dual ovals for the oval pipe where you please then weld that in.

The cloth style ram air tubes cost 80 bucks through the parts place.

i bought these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9789/overview/

i bought this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-239434b/overview/

and all im making is the insert and using a 9 x 3 air filter in the center.

 

If you are intrested im getting geared up here soon to make a few i could make you one for free weld it all up and you just pay for the shipping. Im doing this for the hell of it and hopefully some guys like it enough to where i could sell them for a small fee. I just got done making my template and i just gotta pick up some sheet metal and the oval exhaust pipe.

 

Sounds great to me, I will hold off on this and would greatly appreciate it. I go to a decent amount of cruise nights here can always pass your info on.

Chris

 

Its colder than heck here so getting stuff done is not always easy but now that i got my templates done i can move forward and make my Jigs so i can wrap the sheet metal and weld it to shape. Hopefully by the end of the month i can have something whipped up. The whole idea with my concept is to make something that gives the owner the option of how to plumb it. instead of a kit im simply selling the corner stone and the owner can go from there. I personally like the cloth style tubes as they look good are factory style and dont look tacky. I also dont like the bulkyness of the kits out there I want something that looks good under the hood. and is functional and not generic so to speak.

 

Ok here is a sneak peak. Just got done fitting the templates. Since this is poster board it wont be a sturdy as sheet metal so please disregard the slight uneveness.

 

http://www.ramairbox.com/

 

We have a winner! Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most...

 

If I was to do it, it would be this one. I like the inline filter design, nice and clean.

 

Personally the ram air box is too bulky and the other one posted it too modern for my like.

 

My brain couldn't pull it up either, but I remembered where to look it up.

 

I don't know if it is the best system for the cost. All i know is i used one on my 1970 442. Gain in ET was a tenth. The car still has the air horn in the head light socket ready to install should i want to use it. The way i set mine up can be installed in less than five minutes. The car is in my album in action with ram air in use.

 

Dunno if this should be in it's own thread or if it fits here, but which would be better. Ram Air Intake from the front of the vehicle or Cowl Induction Intake from the base of the windshield?

 

You'll probably get some different opinions on this. I chose the base of the windshield. It seems like it should be a bit more boost at speed. But it can be a bit more difficult to plumb depending how the vehicle is equipped.

 

The real answer is, it depends on the car. The angle of the windshield, shape of the nose, and a whole host of other factors can affect the pressure distribution around a shape. There is no hard-and-fast rule here. The wind tunnel is the final arbiter.

Of course, what happens AFTER the air inlet is often an even bigger effect. For example, air pressure may be higher at the grille, but if long convoluted tubes are needed to get the air to the carb, the end effect may be less desirable than a short duct to the base of the windshield.

In any event, the inlet temp reduction is usually far more of a factor than any "ram" effect.

 

Exactly. I have actually seen true "ram air" cause carburetor problems. Also, while the HP gain may be minimal, it is "free" HP and I do believe also can improve the crispness at part throttle, which is where we do almost all of our driving.

 

To tell the truth the i am not in favor of cowl induction as a way to get cold air. My 67 has a cowl hood and looks okay but i wished i had a forward scoop. I have already said my seventy is ram air.I think the cold air option may give you a little. I don't know if it is worth the effort.I have never had ram air cause a carb problem but have ran in to swarms of bugs at night racing that clog filters. May flies are the worst. Grass hoppers suck also.LOL

 

Joe that is my thinking and i think a forward hood scoop is the way to go and forget about ram air.

 

I am running a Mustang scoop, forward facing on the 88 CSC. I run the 14" open top and a 3.5" tall filter which puts it pretty tight. I wonder if blocking the heat is worth the effort.

 

Well that right there sounds like a good reason to use a rearward facing cowl induction setup.

 

They get sucked in that way too. I have that set up on my 67! When i said swarm i should have said cloud thick enough to cut it with a knife! LOL

 

Keep in mind the element, and the design of the housing on the carb, all impact air flow performance. Many cheap drop base air cleaner assemblies, and many cone filters, are restrictions.

Then there's heat soak, which negates any benefit from cold air induction. You snake large pieces of metal tubing or large housing around the engine bay and you're just complicating what you're trying to accomplish in the first place.

Those silly wiz-bang tubes with a cone filter on the end that are in the engine bay are the worst. You're just sucking hot air on top of the restrictions you add.

Those boxes from RamAirBox.com were designed to not be any type of a restriction.

And very true what Joe P stated, you have to dial the carb (and ignition) in to take full advantage of the benefits of cold air.

I've heard that even the OE w25 air cleaner assemblies are restrictive over a certain HP level/CID size.

.

 

I think the factory style tubes dont get as hot . Its a cloth like material and it can breathe somewhat ., since we are not trying to pressurize the system i think its ok to have that . I also had the thought to line the inside of that with something more heat resistant for my ram air set up but i still dont see it as a benifit . I made my fastest passes with the engine being down at 130 in the burnout box and would hit 160 ish by the time i hit the beams. The underhood temps are pretty bad in my car. when i turn on my electric fans i can feel the hot air coming in the cabin . My set up im using a flat base non drop for the air to have a straight shot in. I have taken into consideration everything that has been mentioned and and for the street i see it as kind of useless because you truly wont feel the difference imho . Who the hell races a car when its hot and heat soaked not to sound like a smartass. There is also theory that an air filter is a restriction but i did back to back runs with a flow through lid type filter and found no gains or lossses between having one and not having one on. Just my 2 cents

 

Endless info out there on the subject:

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...aner-assembly/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/pro...ests/#photo-01

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...=9032&start=45

http://psp.aquacomp.net/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3323

.

 

Absolutely true. Magazine tests back in the 1970-72 timeframe showed that simply removing the flapper door from the air cleaner adapter picked up at least a tenth of a second on O.A.I. cars.

 

Great articles and they support what i have been saying about the flow through lids. Got some ideas from them too for the ram air set up like using a sub stack possibly. Personally im not out to see huge gains but every little bit helps. Thats all im after.

 

Why what are your thoughts on the flow through lids? Some say gains, some say loss, others say does nothing. Clear as mud if you ask me. I may be losing since adding the 2 layer 14"×3.5" racing filter. I decided to oil it to help filtration. Tough size to find and 4" is too tall.

 

The loss between the flow lid and no cleaner at all was 1 hp. in those articles. i went based on track times. i ran a 14x3 air cleaner k&n and the flow lid and then made another pass with out it and saw no real change in e/t.

 

I am wondering if it is worth any power with my scoop basically feeding air on top of it. I had to trim some of the reinforcements in the hood just to make it fit. I think it is pretty tough not to add heat to any induction system under hood but I realize you are looking for any gains possible without changing major parts coppercutlass.

 

I completely understand that. It's not gonna be cool to the touch. But again feeding my engine fresh air is my objective. With all things being considered the manifold will also soak up heat everything will but I don't think the air in the ram air system will truly spend enough time in there to heat it up to the point of it being not benefit.

 

Show a picture of your hood a close up picture and one a little way away. Will need a bottom picture of hood also. Also your air cleaner set up! I have a answer if you have what i am thinking you have.

 

I will this weekend. Any positive input will be appreciated.

 

Sent you a pm. Have a good weekend.

 

Here is my set up, usually in my garage tucked away. Unfortunately the perfect storm of the Olds 4x4 burning and Dodge a knocking and needed an engine swap, means it currently has the factory single snorkel for the winter.

 

To the OP or anyone else intrested i just made the very first one. I have to re do my templates as there is a few things i would like to redesign But i think in a few weeks i could make a few. The OP gets a freebie id he is still intrested anyone else intrested i can make one for a fair price down the road but i will admit im busy with work and personal stuff so the wait might be a few weeks.

I might add the ram air tubes are the factroy cloth style 67-69 OAI tubes. The whole idea with my offering is the fact you can pick and choose the look you want instead of being suck with a pre fabbed cheap looking generic set up.

 

Very cool, Copper, what are the dimensions of that air cleaner assembly?

 

That looks really good I am defiantly interested and thankful.