Looks like a 77-80 Olds 350 with 3A heads. What are the numbers above the water pump on the block next to the oil fill tube?

 

 

Thanks for the reply is this a decent motor too build idk much about them just got the car supposed too have a 4 barrel edelbrock 600 tomorrow is that okay carb too start with

 

Depends on what your goal, this would have "windowed" main bearing webs so it wouldn't be as strong as a 76 or earlier 350 block. For reasonable street performance it should be fine. Replacing the heads with earlier ones such as #5, 6, or 7's would wake it up.

Does it run?

On the pad on the block, not the head just below the #1 spark plug are numbers that will tell the year.

Good luck!!!

 

I'm not sure if It does i was told by the previous owner it did that it had 78k miles i will find out if it does soon as i put the alternator and 600 edelbrock carburetor on it I'm not looking too make a drag car i want it too run good and sound good I want that big lop muscle car sound I want 3:73 or 4:10 gears I do know that idk about the rest a 400 would be nice but I'll toy with the 350 for now any ideal what cam hi rise intake and heads would give it the most I plan too put new valves in it and it will have long tube

 

Swap the gears first. If you're not satisfied, then stick headers on it. If you're still not satisfied, swap in a cam, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7a heads, and a Performer RPM intake.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Oldsmo...t/132860831229

Also....make sure you're running oil with some zinc in it. Valvoline VR-1 is good. Or, liqui-moli additive.

 

Thanks what cam will give it that big about too die lop

 

That's going to be a tough call. My bet is that car has a 2.56 open O axle in it. He'd be better off finding a complete chevelle axle and building that to what he wants. It will be much easier to find parts for it.

If it were me I'd start with a different engine, but that's just me. Even a 403 would be a better starting point. And it's not as simple as just bolting on the earlier heads because of the difference on bolt and dowel pin sizes. The early heads used 7/16" head bolts and a smaller dowel pin, where the later heads used 1/2" head bolts and a larger dowel pin. Machine work would need to be performed on the older heads to make them fit.

Personally I'd look for a good rebuildable 455 and go for it, but again, that's just me.

 

In the first pic there is cast letters "PMD" could this mean Pontiac Motor Division. Could this possibily be from a Pontiac of some origin?

 

As said, the worst Olds 350 made. Crappy flowing, crack prone heads and windowed main web block. That carb also is questionable, many on here have issues with them. A 68 to 76 350 is a much better starting point. Cutlassefi's 350 stroker crank, puts down big numbers without the 455 bottom end issues.

 

Yep, Pontiac was responsible for those garbage heads.

 

I'd like to suggest you try to get this engine going. Don't worry about its assumed weakness. Nobody seems to like them like red headed step children, but it could give you many smiles to the gallon. This will give you the opportunity to concentrate on other car related projects....and have fun.

 

X 2 Get it running and have some fun as you decide what you want to do. Rear gears are the best bang for the buck. Is this your only car ?
.....Just my two cents worth.

 

I also have a 69 chevelle

 

Thanks

 

X3 on getting it running first and do a compression test to get an idea of its condition. Don't give up on it just because it is a 77-80 windowed main block; but, also don't try to get a ton of power from it either. If it needs any valve work consider putting older heads on it to raise the compression and get better flow. Higher compression will support a cam upgrade, sound better and run stronger.

Forum members myself included, offer suggestions and advice but remember, it is YOUR car, YOUR money and YOUR time. Consider what we say/offer/advise and then decide what YOU want to do with YOUR car to get the most enjoyment you can out of it.

Good luck!!!

 

Okay thanks my goal is too just get it running for now but I want a 400 big block for it tha is for the advice

 

Go 455 if you want a BBO, much cheaper and easier to find. I still say a 425 ci SBO is a nice option as well without the issues 3" mains bring.

 

Okay so i traded for these wheels but the studs dont stick through far enough to would it be okay if i put longer studs in them

 

They take special lug nuts. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...81-4/overview/

 

Those wheels use a shank lug nut, you need the correct lug nuts, you do not need longer studs. Look here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...21-4/overview/

 

The studs should extend past the outer surface of the wheel for proper structural attachment. Yeah you can get away without changing the studs. That doesn't mean it's a smart thing to do.

 

The SST wheels require a specific shank lug nut that negates that requirement. They were designed to be used with factory studs.

 

Thanks for all the reply's guys so what the best distributor set up for this motor

 

The one that is in it with some tuning.

 

Try a light and medium spring with the stock advance weights. That motor is 170 hp and 275 tq stock. Do you have dual exhaust? If not, put some on.

 

Okay so I got the distributor set up good whata your opinions on the beat 700 holly carburetor

 

I just changed the plugs ac delco and acell wires with edelbrock breather how do I adjust the timing in detail pics would help I'm new too the whole carb set up thanks guys

 

How did the colour look on the old plugs? Your carb may be on the rich side and the stumble you are seeing may be the non adjustable secondary air door on your Edelbrock, Carter AFB clone 625 cfm carb.

 

There were good I think the stumble is were the timing needs set I just dont know enough too do it

 

More timing, especially at part throttle will help. Just depends on what it is currently set at.

 

You need to find an "old timer" to show you. You do have a timing light, right ?

 

No but I'll get one

 

You need to find an "old timer" to show you how and a timing light. Typing on your computer with the screen shut off is about the same as setting timing without a timing light.

 

Get an adjustable timing light and a vacuum gauge.

 

Okay another question the mechanical fuel pump I have a inline fuel filter just before my carb it will prime up and run but after sitting a whyle the fuel filter is drained so that means my fuel pump is letting fuel seep out of the pump right in other words I need a pump

 

I wouldn't assume a failed pump.

These see through fuel filters often do what you describe after sitting for awhile.

 

I have the same engine in my 71 Cutlass, if you can get it running I would use it until you can find an older 350 or 455 engine but I wouldn’t put much money into that particular engine they just aren’t that impressive for power and even if you were to change say the camshaft to get more power wouldn’t be worth it, I am currently building a 71 350 engine with up grades of course then the 77-80 engine is coming out!