Blowing out exhaust gaskets
#1
Blowing out exhaust gaskets
I have been blowing out the gasket between the engine and the aftermarket header on one side. I just replaced it today and within a few miles of driving it blew out a section again. Any ideas for a fix?
Engine is a 350 in my 68 cutlass holiday coupe.
Engine is a 350 in my 68 cutlass holiday coupe.
#4
Maybe you could try a set of Remflex gaskets, I've had them on my 76' 350 with hedman headers for a few years now with no problems, although my low compression 350 likely couldn't blow out any gasket haha. If Hi-temp rtv that Nealey mentioned works well, that would be much cheaper than the Remflex gaskets.
Eric
Eric
#6
Make sure you scrape off the leftover gasket. Use a razor blade and go over the ports on the heads and headers. I apply a coat of Hi Temp RTV on both sides of the gasket. I haven't had a leak yet. Good luck.
#7
From what i was told i think Joe P also posted this before!Factory had no gasket.
#8
Another vote for Remflex, they make divider and non-divider ones FYI.
YEah YEah Yeah make sure both sides are clean, I took a big file and files a bit on both sides to see high spots, then wrapped 220 grit sandpaper around file to clean up surface, cleaned with acetone squeaky clean.
Mine were blowing out at the bottom, took the remflex and used the big file again to take off a little material at an angle to make more narrow at bolt up holes, to make it tighter at the bottom..
note only torque to 20lbs, usually 5 less then stock so you do not over crush... no goop added.. not convinced RTV would hold up under constant hi temps Remflex tout 3000 deg temp spec..
recheck torque values after 1st heat cycle, then after a month, then after a year. to make sure...
Look at mopar 440ci. guys posts...
Now all OK after SEVERAL,FREQUENT, ONGOING, WOTs!!!!
YEah YEah Yeah make sure both sides are clean, I took a big file and files a bit on both sides to see high spots, then wrapped 220 grit sandpaper around file to clean up surface, cleaned with acetone squeaky clean.
Mine were blowing out at the bottom, took the remflex and used the big file again to take off a little material at an angle to make more narrow at bolt up holes, to make it tighter at the bottom..
note only torque to 20lbs, usually 5 less then stock so you do not over crush... no goop added.. not convinced RTV would hold up under constant hi temps Remflex tout 3000 deg temp spec..
recheck torque values after 1st heat cycle, then after a month, then after a year. to make sure...
Look at mopar 440ci. guys posts...
Now all OK after SEVERAL,FREQUENT, ONGOING, WOTs!!!!
Last edited by FStanley; November 6th, 2016 at 02:22 PM.
#15
It goes back to what I said about the flanges. The cast iron manifolds are very stable in regards to warping and they didn't see the need for a gasket. With the thin flanges on most headers they tend to warp very easily.
#16
What ever you think. I used RTV as mine are not warped.Mine was checked before i installed them heads and headers. After Joe P said what he said i could find no reason to use a gasket and create a warped condition/ leaks. Metal to metal is more stable.JMO
#18
Maybe you should try it. Just remember i didn't buy a paper thin header.I also ended up with a set of headers that had been sealed with RTV. I didn't think anything about it till Joe P started talking about the factory not using gaskets.These were the Jerry Worblewski headers that i am talking about. These were on the tube chassis car that i now own.
Last edited by wr1970; November 7th, 2016 at 01:58 PM.
#19
#20
#21
With the 3/8" flange, RTV is no problem especially on Sanderson headers, as that is how they are designed. The cheap, thin flanged headers like Flowtec, I needed double gaskets after the first engine swap or there was seepage when cold.
#25
On cheap headers, the Summit Copper gaskets leaked. I bet if I coated them with high temp RTV, they would have sealed. I had that issue with stainless mls collector gaskets, coated them with Copper RTV, all good.
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