84 Cutlass Cailas 3.8l v6 -- advice please
84 Cutlass Cailas 3.8l v6 -- advice please
I've been maintaining my Aunt's 84 Cutlass Calais (full instrumentation) since 1996. She actually had a shop exchange the engine in 1992 with a rebuilt short block. I never knew for sure until just recently, but I think from the numbers, that the block is an 83, (25506397) and the heads are 86-87, (25518445). Unfortunately when the lower radiator hose sprung a leak and boiled over, a few weeks ago, she just kept on driving, another 3-5 (city) miles. I went and added water, followed her home the last 2 miles, and changed the LRH the next day. She didn't drive anywhere that week, until the following Sunday. She made her usual 17 mile roundabout (stop n go through city streets) trip to see my mom and they drove to several stores locally. It was when she left that evening (5:45 and 102) That she called to say her car was making an "awful sound" and was "hard to start" (water filled cylinder) to pull in the garage. She blew left side head gasket at #5 cyl. Also "warmed" the motor pretty good. Towed it to my house. I had the heads redone and put it all back together, along with all new gaskets, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and belts... But I'm not out of the woods yet. I'm thinking the rings may be gone. I'm not sure though, I didn't run it/drive for more than about 10 minutes the night I finished and then one short test drive (2 miles) that next morning at an avg. of 35 mph. One other thing. I replaced the lifters (which didn't have much of a crown but were I believe "Okay") with lifters meant for a 350 Chevy. A friend assured me that these new unused lifters, he wanted to give me, were compatible. This thing smoked pretty good on the short test drive, but not really when idling (rich). Another issue during all this is that the oil sending unit is going to need replacing. I had 0 oil pressure reading at first start, but found the lower hose pushing against the oil pressure sensor's wire. The gauge then showed 30-40psi at 1500 rpm. There is also "tapping" sound coming from the #5 cylinder which "settled down after idling the first couple minutes each of the three times I've started it. I'm really hoping its because of installing the wrong lifters and not something else. 
So, I have an intermittent oil sending unit, the wrong lifters, (350 chevy and NOT 3.8l 3800 v6 231ci), a tapping sound at/or below #5 cylinder,... and a pretty good amount of what I think looked more like white, than blue smoke, bellowing in the rear view, the one time I test drove 8-10 minutes/2 miles.
I know I need to replace the oil press. unit. I'm going to have to pull the intake and install correct lifters. The reality of it all, is that I don't have the time or the money, (unfortunately neither does my Aunt) to have all this done at a professional repair shop. that's why I took a shot at the top end of this motor hoping... Obviously, I'm not a professional mechanic. If I have to pull the motor for a full rebuild It's going to be a long difficult endeavor. Right now I'm looking for advice as to what (other) things I should do and in what order, considering all I've just mentioned? If it has to be done- I have access to a hoist. I'm going to get back in the ring with this thing Friday the 25th. I'll definitely replace the oil pressure unit. Blue Devil last resort. Just need to "undo" wrong lifters first. I don't want to run this engine any more than necessary Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Johnny (JD)

So, I have an intermittent oil sending unit, the wrong lifters, (350 chevy and NOT 3.8l 3800 v6 231ci), a tapping sound at/or below #5 cylinder,... and a pretty good amount of what I think looked more like white, than blue smoke, bellowing in the rear view, the one time I test drove 8-10 minutes/2 miles.
I know I need to replace the oil press. unit. I'm going to have to pull the intake and install correct lifters. The reality of it all, is that I don't have the time or the money, (unfortunately neither does my Aunt) to have all this done at a professional repair shop. that's why I took a shot at the top end of this motor hoping... Obviously, I'm not a professional mechanic. If I have to pull the motor for a full rebuild It's going to be a long difficult endeavor. Right now I'm looking for advice as to what (other) things I should do and in what order, considering all I've just mentioned? If it has to be done- I have access to a hoist. I'm going to get back in the ring with this thing Friday the 25th. I'll definitely replace the oil pressure unit. Blue Devil last resort. Just need to "undo" wrong lifters first. I don't want to run this engine any more than necessary Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Johnny (JD)
Last edited by Johnny99; Aug 23, 2017 at 08:11 PM.
First thing, do a compression check. If all the cylinders are within 15% or so of each other you probably - but not definitely - don't have ring problems.
What you almost certainly do have is emulsified oil left in the engine. A spell of highway driving to get the engine right up to its proper temperature might vent out the water, but i'd change the oil & filter again anyway.
After you've put the right lifters in of course.
Here's hoping you don't find anything serious - good luck!.
Roger.
What you almost certainly do have is emulsified oil left in the engine. A spell of highway driving to get the engine right up to its proper temperature might vent out the water, but i'd change the oil & filter again anyway.
After you've put the right lifters in of course.
Here's hoping you don't find anything serious - good luck!.
Roger.
Last edited by rustyroger; Aug 26, 2017 at 01:28 AM.
Thanks, CRUZIN 66, but I've already "thrown my hat over the fence" so to speak, having the heads rebuilt... This car was driven very gently and seldom over last 10 years. Just not sure, how hot It got. Trying to avoid pulling engine- "shade tree style". I think Rustyroger's thoughts about this are spot on. I Will find out this weekend when I pull intake and pop in correct valve lifters. That is, if tropical storm "Harvey" doesn't squelch my plans. San Antonio, Texas.
Thanks, Eric. Dude, that engine you have is an inspiration! I bet the weather must be great now where you are. I'll be sure and update with what develops!
Roger.
The Buick motors have worn timing cover/oil pump issues. The 3.8 is also big time underpowered in those cars. They are not nearly as reliable as the later 3800 motors. A Buick 350 is a nearly direct swap most do, to get out of it's own way. I wouldn't put one in without a new timing cover and oil pump assembly.
First thing, do a compression check. If all the cylinders are within 15% or so of each other you probably - but not definitely - don't have ring problems.
What you almost certainly do have is emulsified oil left in the engine. A spell of highway driving to get the engine right up to its proper temperature might vent out the water, but i'd change the oil & filter again anyway.
After you've put the right lifters in of course.
Here's hoping you don't find anything serious - good luck!.
Roger.
What you almost certainly do have is emulsified oil left in the engine. A spell of highway driving to get the engine right up to its proper temperature might vent out the water, but i'd change the oil & filter again anyway.
After you've put the right lifters in of course.
Here's hoping you don't find anything serious - good luck!.
Roger.
Johnny
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