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I have a 72 delta 88 350 rocket I just converted to msd hei from points its getting spark fuel ect but still wont run I had the timing mark to 0 and it still wont run I drove it 80 miles home before the points crapped out it sat for 2 years and may have a mild cam but the car is original over wise
Last edited by 72delta88; Oct 2, 2016 at 02:08 PM.
I have a 72 delta 88 350 rocket I just converted to msd hei from points its getting spark fuel ect but still wont run I had the timing mark to 0 and it still wont run I drove it 80 miles home before the points crapped out it sat for 2 years and may have a mild cam but the car is original over wise
Welcome. First, what do you mean by "the points crapped out" and did you change the whole distributor as a result? Are you SURE the points were the problem?
If so, chances are you have the distributor installed 180 degrees out of phase.
Welcome. First, what do you mean by "the points crapped out" and did you change the whole distributor as a result? Are you SURE the points were the problem?
If so, chances are you have the distributor installed 180 degrees out of phase.
the points were burnt to a crisp and the dizzy was stuck in the block it had a ring of corrosion around the basre it now has abrand new hei distributor controlled by a msd street fire
Last edited by 72delta88; Oct 2, 2016 at 04:09 PM.
Reason: not enough info
I'll add, is it wired for full battery voltage? You understand you can't use your original timing settings? Which distributor did you install? I'm assuming that your using the MSD 5520 box?
it was 180 out I corrected that and it tried to start the battery is so low even jumping it didn't work I tried it without the msd5520 and it still wouldn't start its the assault hei that's like 53$ on ebay yes its wired for full 12v at the battery and at the key as per msd manual
I'll add, is it wired for full battery voltage? You understand you can't use your original timing settings? Which distributor did you install? I'm assuming that your using the MSD 5520 box?
Run a jumpre wire directly from the positive battery cable to the HEI batt terminal and start the engine with the key. To turn off you need to disconnect the wire and then turn the key off. Set your initial timing at 16* BTDC and fine tune from there. With a stock or relatively stock engine the box really is overkill.
Run a jumpre wire directly from the positive battery cable to the HEI batt terminal and start the engine with the key. To turn off you need to disconnect the wire and then turn the key off. Set your initial timing at 16* BTDC and fine tune from there. With a stock or relatively stock engine the box really is overkill.
tried it ive gotta get the battery charged tomorrow its not gonna stay stock for long that's y I wanted the box its getting heads cam intake and headers over the next 4 months and I wanted the rev limiter
To be honest the distributor doesn't care where #1 is wired as long as the rotor points to it at the right time and the firing order is wired correctly.
To be honest the distributor doesn't care where #1 is wired as long as the rotor points to it at the right time and the firing order is wired correctly.
thanks so much I tried the points 1 it didn't work for the hei I used the hei pattern and that's when it tried to start
Eventually you'll run out of broken things to fix.
the carb was gushing gas after shut off its roached and it was 75 degrees out and the car was running at 225 and climbing and it got gas in the oil and the temp was in stop and go traffic
Last edited by 72delta88; Oct 3, 2016 at 06:53 PM.
75 degrees out, how did it even run? I once had my Olds about 20 degrees advanced after swapping distributors, noticed it was a hard restart. Probably the needle and seat stuck from old shitty gas.
the carb was gushing gas after shut off its roached and it was 75 degrees out and the car was running at 225 and climbing and it got gas in the oil and the temp was in stop and go traffic
The carb. "gushing gas" means that the float is stuck.
Nothing to do with roaches.
You may want to rebuild it.
225° in stop and go traffic could be a stuck thermostat (since we know things are stuck), or an obstruction (or blocked radiator), or a bad fan clutch, or a missing fan shroud.
Fuel in the oil is because of the stuck float.
You need to go through this engine one thing at a time. (And if the points were a problem, you'd have saved yourself a few days by just replacing them, rather than installing a whole new distributor and ignition system).
i had a engine builder whos friends with my dad go through it the carb is gone the body and base were corroded and warped the radiator is clear I'm thinking its the thermostat or fan clutch no one around here had the right set of points and i prefer the msd hei for reliability even after a good cleaning the carb looked like the bottom of the il river and the distributor was wore out ( the carb water pump dizzy fan clutch and thermostat are original
75 degrees out, how did it even run? I once had my Olds about 20 degrees advanced after swapping distributors, noticed it was a hard restart. Probably the needle and seat stuck from old shitty gas.
the temp out was 75
we cleaned the carb the day i bought the car turns out the body and base were warped
i had a engine builder whos friends with my dad go through it the carb is gone the body and base were corroded and warped the radiator is clear I'm thinking its the thermostat or fan clutch no one around here had the right set of points and i prefer the msd hei for reliability even after a good cleaning the carb looked like the bottom of the il river and the distributor was wore out ( the carb water pump dizzy fan clutch and thermostat are original
Which also probably means your timing chain is original too. MAW do it since your only a few bolts away when changing the water pump.
Forgot you mentioned that earlier in the thread. Then I would suspect the water pump was replaced also.
I'm going to start with the thermostat and fan clutch the carb going on it is a holley 4 barrel 600 cfm vac secondary on a 4-2 adaptor till I buy an intake it idles well at 750 and drops to 600 in gear
Last edited by 72delta88; Oct 4, 2016 at 08:13 AM.
thanks everyone for the help ive got the car running perfect I changed the radiator and carb now it idles at 975 in park 750 in gear with the timing at 8 degrees before tdc it will chirp the tires when I mat it it just wont burn out when its power braked but it runs amazing and temp is 185 in stop and go traffic
Last edited by 72delta88; Oct 15, 2016 at 04:37 PM.
