brianbeez67

Pulling the 330 out next week have the lift already, want to know what you guys think is the best/safest way to pull it. Transmission will be dropped out later. Carb plate? Chain on heads?
Thanks

joe_padavano

Bolts in shear into the accessory bolt holes in the ends of the heads. Use an engine tilter.

edzolz

This ^^^^ With big washers on the bolts to keep the chain from pulling through.

olds 307 and 403

Grade 8 bolts aren't the worst idea either, had a grade 5 bolt break, good thing the motor was a foot in the air. The leveler with the hood removed is best method unless you don't have help to remove the hood. Remember to support the front of the trans with either a floor jack or something like a ratchet strap and a long bar if the car needs to be moved.

Sugar Bear

What is the reccomended bolt grade for this and is the fastening point stronger if the bolt is tightened to clamp the chain to reduce bending of the attachment hardware?

Thanks,

joe_padavano

Always tighten the bolt against the chain to avoid bending loads. If necessary, use spacers between the chain and the head of the bolt to ensure the chain is clamped against the head. I've used sockets for that occasionally. Grade 8 is preferred, but Grade 5 will be fine so long as you aren't bending it. Gr 5 bolts are 75 KSI shear ultimate, Gr 8 are 91 KSI. For a 3/8" diameter bolt, that's about 8,000 lbs in shear for Gr 5 and 10,000 lbs for Gr 8. A single Gr 5 bolt could lift your whole car with margin if you ensured it was only loaded in shear. Once you start bending the bolt, however, things go downhill in a hurry.

edzolz

I purchsed a set of swivel load hooks from McMaster Carr. Relatively expensive but when I was doing a lot of engine lifting they were the best.

brianbeez67

Thanks will look into a tilter, thanks Joe

brianbeez67

Joe just bought the tilter you suggested, should be pulling the engine next week, Thanks guys

oldcutlass

If your planning on pulling the transmission in the near future, why not pull them both at the same time?

brianbeez67

First engine pull ever and by myself at that, the whole front end is off and will stay off for engine return. Trans will just roll out the front. That’s my novice plan. Hope all goes smooth. Thanks guys

oldcutlass

That makes it even easier to pull and reinstall both at the same time while still attached to each other..

Sugar Bear

If you will need to move the car around later remove both the engine and trans at the same time, unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate before removing the assembly. It's doable later but easier now. Whichever way you proceed, after unbolting the converter push it back into the transmission and note the gap between the flex plate and the converter. Upon reinstall you need the same gap or the converter isn't seated and it will damage the front transmission pump when bolting the engine and transmission back together.

Good luck!!!

oldcutlass

You don't need to unbolt the torque converter to pull both engine and trans. as a unit, you do need to do it if your pulling just the engine.

brianbeez67

Not understanding what gap you are talking about. With the stock converter seated on the trans shaft, where is this gap coming from?

joe_padavano

That's what he said - that it's much easier to unbolt it with the drivetrain in the car than when 800 lbs of engine and trans are swinging above your head hanging from the engine hoist.

Toocool

If you are leaving the trans in the car a carb plate works very good. You shouldnt have to tilt the engine much so there is no need for a tilter.

Sugar Bear

After removing the torque converter bolts, the converter can be pushed backward approx. 1/4". Push it backward and note the distance that it is from the front edge of the bell housing. When reinstalling the engine, the torque converter must be the same distance back into the transmission, if it isn't bad things happen when trying to bolt the trans back to the engine e.g., broken front pump in the transmission, cracked bell housing and/or a damaged torque converter. If you get a sense of where the converter is now you will know if it is seated properly when you bolt the engine and transmission together. If the engine and transmission don't mate flush without bolts the converter is not seated.

Hope this helps and good luck!!!

brianbeez67

Thanks, I will measure that space prior to un-bolting.