Hello everyone,

I'm getting my old 442 back on the road after setting about 35 years, so lots of replacements going on. I had to replace my 2 four barrel "AFB's" since they wouldn't rebuild correctly and replaced them with two Eldebrock 500cfm's that seemed to do OK. Had a guy set them up that professed to be carb guy, but not sure, anyway, Car was starting when cold OK, but not real good, but would start good when warm. Took to garage for a clutch, when it came back it didn't want to run, seemed like idel problem. So I reviewed the Eldebrock how to and set the idle - fuel and air per instruction and it started better than ever, and runs smoother, but, it's real Bi#$* to start warm. I'm think I have enough fuel and air, maybe timing? why start cold good, run good, then after warm It don't want to play nice-staring wise??

Ok, let the opinions begin........... you guys always seem to have the answers!!

Thanks "Sixtyfour"

 

Well let's start with what ignition system your running and what your tune settings are? You also did not mention if and how you cleaned your fuel system since it sat for 35 years. How are your carbs set, I'm assuming the rear is the primary carb.

 

Well yep, all new fuel tank and gas lines and fuel pump. so most of the stuff redone, and the carbs are brand new eldebrocks...1405 I think. But, today I was online researching and got a tech at eldebrock to agree there having problems with engine heat on shut downs with hard starts and I ordered two wooden carb spacers to arrest the heat. Also spoke with a friend and he has heard of it as well, seems like ethanol based gasoline evaporates or something during initial shut down and the carbs absorb the heat into the base. the half inch wood spacer they sell I guess fixes the problem, I know it sounds like BS, but for fifty bucks I'll give a try

I'll keep you posted, several people I have spoke to swears it will fix it....so?? I'll bite I guess

 

Hey Oldcutlass!,

Problem seems to be fixed with the addition of the wood spacers that Eldebrock makes. It seems after some research that ethenol is affected by "Boyle's Law concerning volume&gas pressure constants. The vapor pressure of ethenol permits it to vaporize at lower temps than the original fuels. Hence when it gets hot the fuel is disapated in the newer eldebrocks and has to be replenished, hence the long crank times after setting when hot. But after the phyisics lesson, it seems to work OK now......... go figure. Guess eldebrock makes an extra $50 bucks off me

Thanks - Sixtyfour

 

Not saying that this does not fix your issue. Down here, I know of a handful of people who run this setup without the isolators with no problems. It gets plenty warm here during the summer months.

 

I'm surprised the Tech didn't mention float level settings. With the ethanol blends the float level should be slightly lower then what you'd set it at with real fuel. They may already be set if they are new but cant hurt to ask/check. The symptoms would be lousy idle & hard starts when warm due to fuel peculating into circuits it not supposed to be in at idle or hot restarts. Or the fuel is just boiling off. More prevalent in a Q-Jet set with period float level settings using ethanol blends just thought I mention it as it applies to all carbs. Does that intake have a heat riser crossover? If so plug it off if cold weather starts are not a concern. The more heat you can wick away from the carbs the better! The crossover block offs and carb insulator solved my hot start problem. I also wrapped the fuel line up to the pump.