Looking for an excellent crankstaff shop. To cut down, stroked and balanced for Olds D block diesel. Look like, I found one. And want to have it shipped direct to the crank shop.

 

Or you could just buy one of my drop in ready D/DX billet cranks😉. Just a thought.

 

I was waiting for you to say that! I like old forged steel. I own things from the 50' and 60's that just will not die. Yes I know, old and heavy! But stronger. Will need pistons 4.155 and rods from you. The latest and greatest, maybe the ones you can not tell us about yet?? New BB Edelbrock milled to get 10.5 CR. Big roller cam, I want it to sound like four Harley Davidsons going the the road. Maybe the whine of gear drive. I wear ear plugs now when I drive.

Sold the DX, will get D block. Did not pay to work the lifter bores on DX. Need help in engine design. Want to assemble it myself, have most of the tools. More on the way. Build slow, careful and clean. Can say, I put it together myself!

The crank I found online. Told me late today is still at the machine shop. Save me on shipping to have done there. They been around forever. https://www.cull.ca/ They are looking for bob weight, will talk to them tomorrow. Think will send damper and flex plate. Also.

 

A 55 year old 400/425 is not stronger, by a longshot. My billets are about 20%, stronger, 10+Lbs lighter and so on. And are already internally balanced.
Pistons and rods aren’t a problem though. You won’t need to mill that much off any bb head to get 10.5:1.
However don't assume you can go to 4.155 on that block. Have it Sonic checked first.

 

Just a curiosity question...
I may have missed this but, who is manufacturing these cranks?

 

They’re Chinese, 5140 Billet. Very high quality though, hardened, and the tolerances have been excellent.

 

Mark love an honest person. Responding with the actual origin of these cranks instead of just replying "off shore" says alot about your character. One of the many reasons i'll be sending my heads to you in the fall and will have you pick a camshaft to work with them. Back to the thread, I agree that the new billet is stronger than the old forgings because a crankshaft is subjected to alot of abuse over the years and it does take it's toll. My first steel 455 crank bent right at the thrust bearing after around 200 passes!

 

Cranks are subject to fatigue just like everything else in the engine. A little stress every pass and soon it becomes a stress point that will soon break. New is always better.

 

Did you get "certs" for the steel used ? Hardened to what Rockwell hardness ? Have they been Magnafluxed ?

 

I actually have their hardening process somewhere. I’ll see if I can find it.

 

I am not a drag racer! This is not a all out engine. N crank in my SB is 50+ years old. And has survive 15+ years of me. 425 crank is fine for the approx. 600 HP. D block

New is not always better. Just one example are pipe threading machines built in 50's & 60's. Still in service, running 16 hours a day. Even my old Ridgid 535 built in 1953 is still cutting and threading pipe for it new owner. Newer 535 made with plastic parts.

No doubt Mark has has change CO for the better. Heads, pistons, rods, etc. He is working on other things.

I am sure the billet crank is a great product. Guy's on here are very happy with it. Chinese can make great products. I do not want anything from China for their policies! And for the last 6 years been very careful on what I buy.

And to be honest, if I wanted to go drag racing. It would be with an LSX or RR block.

 

Is the Diesel block necessary at 600 HP? I like any well made product that a company can show is superior to stock parts. I will be using a 330 crank and this build and the next, only because I have them. I get the policy idea, as a Canadian a lot of us don't like American policies but I still support and buy US made products and we expect the same. Products from the UK as well with Canada being a British Commonwealth. Get an estimate, it will be ugly with cutting down the counter weights and the cost of all the Mallory.

 

I agree with Christian. Who knows, maybe the people in the plant in China don’t agree with their gov’t position either. I’ve sold or installed over 30 of these in the last three years. A few guys have even bought them AFTER already having their 425 cranks machined already, they’re that good. I’m just trying to offer pieces that make sense. This same crank from Bryant or Moldex is over 3K, and guess where they’re getting their raw billet from. You guessed it, China.
And yes Christian you’re right, for 600hp you don’t need a diesel block.

 

Thank you for the reply. I'm 95% certain that I will be picking up one of these cranks...just waiting for a few significant job bonuses to roll in, then I can decide where in the car I need to place that money.

 

As I said elsewhere here on OC. This is my last build. I want to run the **** out of it. Without blowing the bottom out. Do not want a BBO to get the 600 HP. Or band aids on a SBO. I need it to be bulletproof!!! Diesel block, built correctly does that in my mind.

Mark's crank is a beautiful piece!!! Just not for me. You can't win them all.

What the Chinese government is doing. You all can read. Or should read. Danger is not one party against another, here. Its China. Chinese don’t agree with their gov’t position either. Soon will be headed to prison camp and or never heard from again.

 

You should be able to push high rpm especially with the 4 bolt caps. I am going for overkill on what will eventually be my back up motor, pretty sure bottom end will be good for 3000 rpm over peak power. I like your car a lot, red looks really good on those cars. G bodies were where Olds actually tried to make a performance again after giving up for most of the 70's.

 

Interesting post......have one of Marks cranks in the EFI dyno motor in the other post.

Has anyone here actually lived or worked in China besides me ? I worked at a major university / state run equipment provider in China the late 2000’s
.
if you think for one minute that Chinese are not advanced you are a watching too much Tv. Sure we can all think the tech was stolen, but we moved it there and so did Europe......Go to any trade show (insert your industry here) and will be mind blown. So much local chinese equipment in all industries.

Ride the mag lev trains in Shenzen / Shanghai and other places. The infrastructure changes in just three years blew me away. We can all say bad things and I always had my guard up, but staying in the Hiltons/Marriott’s for extended durations you would not know where you were. Amazing beautiful country- just spend some time outside the tourist areas.

Had more marriage proposals than i could count on all my hands and feet - let that resonate for a bit. Point taken on the above with their own government differences. Never felt unsafe and thousands of Americans work in China. I took this job as the USA was going through the great 2007/2008 crash and only thing I could get. My wife and I are still married.....even when I was gone for long durations. I left chengdu one week before the great earthquake in Sichuan province. Let that sink in.

 

Thinking it will fine with the main caps it was born with and ARP bolts. BTR did a turbo that way. Love my car too! Its a head turner! Fast, stops well, great ride and handle like a rocket ship on rails. I do have the formula to make a Cutlass handle and stop like a Corvette from the 2010's. 90 degree turn at 55 and the car stays flat. My 84 Hurst was a pig trying to do that. Could not be happier how she turned out! Wish Olds would have produced their version of V6 turbo in G body Cutlass. Have some drawings of it someplace.

China tech in many ways ahead of the USA. So is their pollution. Best solar panels. They have come a long way from what you read in Pearl S. Buck books. I had my daughter watch The Good Earth.

 

I can’t say what i do, but paved the way for UL rated chinese solar panels coming into USA

 

[QUOTE=HighwayStar 442;1355091]Thinking it will fine with the main caps it was born with and ARP bolts.

FWIW - When I originally pulled my “as born” DX apart one of the main caps came off in 2 pieces. Crank turned fine but that put me into aftermarket steel caps and studs. Anomaly? Probably but I wouldn’t trust them after my experience. WTH, it’s only money!

Im really wasting the brawn of the DX foundation but I figured build a bullet proof bottom end and if the power is insufficient then go with a CNC/porting of the heads and intake, thin head gaskets, bigger cam and voila, a pretty big bump in power.

…….

 

Unfortunately, the pollution is absolutely terrible in China with all this manufacturing with loose rules. I just read an article for all the new technology being developed and patented for licensing in Canada are mostly Chinese and US companies, no Canadian company in the top 10, we are falling way behind.
How does a lightened 425 crank compare weigh compared to a 330 crank?

 

Fully lightened 425 crank weighs about 72#. Thats with profiled counterweights, the works.
A 330 crank weighs about 57#. My small journal strokers weigh about the same, large journal ones weigh about 64#.

 

[QUOTE=bccan;1355144]I agree. No need for band aids for bottom end, hope it works over time. Ported as much as I could 7a heads with undercut BB valves. And 7111 intake, ported match myself. Was pleasantly surprised on road test after. Start to open my mouth to say WOW to my daughter as I floored it. And almost swallowed my tongue. I have no way to flow test. But, I am on the right track. Can not wait to get my hands on the new BB heads. To port heavily.

What did you do for the oversize lifter bores? Who's aftermarket steel caps did you go with?? Think for my power level, no need for 4 bolt caps.

Too bad no one say use spacers for 330 crank anymore. I did find one new in a box. NOS.

 

Bushed the lifter bores, iirc $600

Cant recall who made the caps but if I can remember, I’ll edit this. I did get lightly scolded by Bill T for getting those caps as he said they required some extra fitting time, said I shoulda bought his, he wouldn’t have had extra labor to fit them. I had collected parts for a spell without really knowing I would pick Bill T to build it, this was some years ago. He had no issues with me supplying most of the big stuff so I had no question that he was straight with me on the caps. He was very helpful when I was collecting parts as I would bounce the stuff & specs off him to make sure I wasn’t gonna screw the pooch on purchases and all my math was correct. Only Olds parts were block & crank. Still very appreciative of AllyOlds for stuffing his Honda trunk with block, 2 cranks and a crapload of parts, still don’t know how there was enough weight on his front wheels to steer upstate and drop that load @ Bill’s place!

 

Hoping main caps are good, maybe put on straps not sure they help or hurt. BBO main caps, must be good for 600 HP? Trying to remember and find my book from static and strength of material from college. Rotating mass on angle and angular velocity. Been out of school for 42 years.

Front to rear frame rails. I did not box, but I am working on a plan to beef them up on car without taking off body.

Thinking on two 1/4'' flat steel with 1/2'' SS carriage bolts with 3/4'' SS washers and 1/2'' washer/nuts every 9'' to 12''. and add attachments to rear end. Like beam stiffens. I am going for 600 HP on mine. It will twist a normal g body like a pretzel.

Had a extended frame 84 ford F350 dually with a 12' stake body dump bed. What a work horse! Built in Canada.(I was told roads in Canada are a lot harder on trucks) What they did was riveted two 3/8'' or 1/2'' flat steel. one on top and one on bottom of C frame. As a side note. A good buddy who was a line foreman for GMC. Came to see me and was all pissed off for me buying a Ford truck. I raised the bed, he looked at the frame. He could not believe the size of the frame on my Ford.

 

I highly doubt bolting a piece of .250 plate is going to give you the desired results. you would be better off boxing with .125 flatstock, it would lighter and stronger.

 

Yeah, Canadian roads sucks. A lot of shifting, cracks and pot holes due to weather changes. A lot of guys have reinforced G body frames by welding plates here and there. It also depends on whether your car was a Northern or Southern car for its life. A Northern car will have much thinner frame rails.

 

Running the long SS 1/2'' carriage bolts from bottom to top. 1/2'' & 3/4'' SS heavy washers with SS nuts. With 3/16'' or 1/4'' flat steel same wide of frame, sandwiched at top and bottom like the ford truck frame.
Basically, you treat the C frame rail as a truss with the stiffeners. Stiffeners can be made to effectively brace the web against buckling. And tied it somehow to the lower rear frame by rear control arms.

I have seem this done in buildings on I beams and large C channel. That I installed fire sprinklers in. Do not want or need to lift body off the frame. Also I have the SS hardware leftover from decks and docks.

 

 

All gone. But I’ll have std gas main cranks available in the coming months. Peyton Hunt will be making spacers for their use in D/DX blocks as well.