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I’m building a 403 my mechanic sent picture of front of engine and a ran the numbers on balancer. I think it’s for a 307? Would this be a bad idea? The balancer came off a 403 or 350 when I brought them in. Any help would be appreciated I will post a picture. I believe the number to be 22506730 Also would belt alignment be off? Brackets of 1977 non ac engine.
Thanks, Derek
Looks like the front hub is normal 64-79 olds stuff, so the main pulley will be fine. AFAIK, the hub distance is the same on all the balancers.
It's always best to have the rotating assembly balanced, especially when using a mix of parts. I don't know that this would specifically be a "bad" idea, but I would be tempted to replace that balancer. Of course, the budget balancers (e.g. Powerforce or whatever it is) have way too much weight in the eccentric for most builds.
If you're on a tight budget, just run it. Making it better will require tearing it all down and checking the balance, with that balancer or with a replacement.
If it was balanced with that balancer then you're fine, assuming the balancer was in good overall shape.
Just make sure the timing mark is in the right place before you install the engine.
403's should use the regular "442" balancer found on the 60s/70s 350/400/455 as the parts books call out. Even the 80s 307 VIN 9 engines used it. P/N 417142. The 307Y one you have on there now obviously fits, but then you'll have to use all the pulleys for it. Not sure if it all matches up well. I've never worked on a Y engine.
The whole rotating assembly has been balanced with that harmonic balancer, I didn’t catch that until he sent me the picture. I’m going to use non ac brackets of my 77 cutlass it has the non ac water pump on it now.
I have a 403 that has the same harmonic balancer. Mine is a solid balancer. I bought a AZRacing long block (Auto Zone (:•》)
The fellow I bought it from purchased it from Auto Zone in 2006. He then went on a shopping spree at Summit Racing. He never did anything with the engine and it looks good inside. The rods clearance is. 0015 mains. 003. I plan on using the balancer. I'm considering putting it in my 1967 Grey 98. Just a driver. Good luck
I don’t ever plan to go over 5500 rpm. What balancer would you recommend? Also how much of a pain would it be to balance the new harmonic balancer?
Thanks for all the replies. This is my first total rebuild of an engine top to bottom I want to do it right.
You said your rotating assembly was balanced using this balancer so I would go with it. That's a good idea to stay at/under 5,500. As I said, I have one with the same balancer and I'm going to use it. Jmo, good luck.
you said your rotating assembly was balanced using this balancer so i would go with it. That's a good idea to stay at/under 5,500. As i said, i have one with the same balancer and i'm going to use it. Jmo, good luck.
As I said, I have a similar balancer that came with a re-manufactured 0.040" over 403. I'm about ready to install the "solid one piece" balancer. I have a few builder 403s in one of my off site buildings. I went over and took a factory "normal" hub-rubber-outer ring type harmonic balancer off an engine.
I weighed them both, solid balancer (like yours/mine) weighed 2,608 Grams vs factory normal rubber between balancer weighed 3,804 Grams. I'm going with the solid balancer (lighter) that came with the engine.
