OLDSter Ralph

It can be done a couple ways, grinding or machining. The bearing can be mounted a couple different ways also.
1. One way would be to mount the bearing on a tapered arbor or expandable arbor that will "lock up" the bearing outer race and ground or machined "between centers" (60 º pointed center in chuck or collet and the tail stock center).
2. Another way would be to mount the bearing on an arbor (thats running true) that is a slip fit inside the inner race with sufficiently thick "washers" to lock the outer race from turning and machine or grind the O.D.
3. Machining: You will need a sufficiently "hard" grade of carbide to cut bearing race or a ceramic. You may have to polish (sandpaper) the machined area if you have taper. The hardness of the material, requires you spin the bearing much slower. C2 or C5 grade carbide will work.

oletrux

While I have many 'passable' skills, machining is not one of them. I am in awe of those of you who do have that knowledge and skills and appreciate the education guys. Hopefully the car is at the stage this is no longer an issue. We'll see after a few thousand miles (hopefully not before).

Kennybill

Thanks for the updates and machining info (OLDSter Ralph). My Friend/machinist (started school with in 1956) passed away and most the small machine shops have gone under. The bushing type would be easier, imo. I may try to find someone to try this. Let's cross our fingers. If it works 403/350's with this type of crankshaft may become popular for manuals. Make sure you "dial" in your bellhousing.

oletrux

Well, the job is finished and after the first 25 miles all still seems well. The addition of 5th gear makes a remarkable difference at highway speed. Thanks again guys for the education.

Kennybill

Good, now take it to 6,500 rpms with power shifts to see if it holds up. NOT, just kidding. That's good to hear and nice of you for the update. Most times we never hear about the results.