Hi everyone new here and looking forward for many tips and tricks from all veterans here.
I have a f85(65) with a 350 that i want to rebuilt and make it a little stronger/faster at the same time
The bottom end is 68 with nodular crank and lc pistons
Heads are nr.8 (79cc)
Tranny is an st300
Rear end im not sure(with 265/50-15 rear tyres it runs 65mph at 3000-3100 rpm)so i think its a 3,73 or bigger
now i was thinking
1:forged flat pistons (0,30)
2:ARP main-con.rods-cyl.heads bolts
3:Flowtech headers 1 3/4 in.
4:Comp cams magnum rocker arm kit (1.6 ratio)
5:Comp cam kit 218 int./224 exh. at 0.50 inch lift
6:Edelbrock perf.rpm intake
7:HV oil pump? (do i need it?)
8:7qt oil pan? (do i need it?)
9Oil restr.kit?(necessery?)
10: porting of heads.

max rpm 5500-5800 possible?

Any help and tips appreciated

 

Sounds like a pretty good plan, #8 heads and flat top pistons should yield 9 to 1, you may want to mill them a tad to bump up the cr. IMO, you don't need 7,8,or 9. 10 definitely! Get a good valve job and a street port job, no need to hog out the ports. Can you post the cam part #, I am not familiar with it.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K42-222-4/ its from summit

 

Any other suggestions?The car is gone be a summer-cruiser not dd .I want to be able to show that nice rear end at some bimmers and ricers,if u get my point

 

Sounds like you know what your doing. My advice would be go for it.

 

Thanks,well im a mechanic since 18 years now but ive done mostly european engines so my know-how on old V8s is some how limited
Do u know what kind of numbers (hp) can i expect from such set-up?

What about the oil starvation prob.that those engines have at high rpm?

 

Sounds like a pretty decent plan. However please take the time to consider using aftermarket rods, SBC 400 pistons and a cam other than the one you picked, something with a bit more lift. You're obviously going to get into the heads so getting a spring to fit will be no problem.

Don't need the HV pump and deep pan, restrictors are your choice. With a good balance job and springs you can run into the 6000's easy.

Did a similar combo (SBC rod and Piston), runs awesome and I'll bet it cost less to do than your combo.

 

Ok i didnt know that sbc internals fits sbo has the 400sbc the same bore/stroke? does it have that much stronger rods?

 

It won't- not without some special crank grinding-grinding the rod throws to fit the Chevy 400.
You then buy aftermarket rods, and pistons for a 400 chevy.

That is something he has done (its the least expensive way to get an aftermarket rod in it), and advises many people to do.

I like filling the exhaust crossovers with aluminum, IF you are going to run an electric choke-that's me, but not needed for a cruiser.

With your RPM limit, and planned usage, I see no reason to not run prepped stock rods, WITH the ARP bolts.
Cost will still be way lower than another set of rods, and the extra $ for the crank grind. JMO

I say ditch the ST300, and get a t-350 in it.
Or an overdrive.
NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE.
The ST300 is like running a marathon with your shoes tied together.
It will ONLY slow you down.
NO benefit.
Otherwise- a good build.
JMO
Jim

 

You're right Warhead on most everything but I have to disagree with you on the rod info. Here's the reason why for everybody.

By the time you pay for ARP bolts, press the old pistons off, press the new pistons on and recondition the rods, you'll spend every bit as much as you would buying a lighter stronger rod and going full floating if you want, no question. And if you have to grind the crank anyway why not just grind it to SBC large journal size, a difference of a whopping .023. (I'm being sarcastic). Most shops around here will do it for another $50.00. And by the way you don't use a "SBC 400" rod. That's 5.565 in length, you use a readily available aftermarket length of 6.200.

It's a great way to lighten and strengthen the bottom end and gain parts availabilty as well. Last one I did the bobweight for balancing was over 200 grams lighter per journal than the regular stock setup. You think that might be a bit easier on parts? Probably huh. Plus pistons (SBC 400, 1.425 comp distance) are a dime a dozen as well so to me it's a no brainer, especially when you're not rebuilding the original numbers matching motor anyway. Easy way to gain a few cubes too.

 

I agree with cutlassefi.. He makes

 

First and foremost, ditch the #8 heads for a much better flowing #5,6,7,or 7a. Number 6 being the preferrred the best choice because they already have the bigger valves in them. Get them Ported and flowed And a Good valve job. Then port match your intake to the ports on the heads. That is where your power is going to come from. You will want to a cam with a bit more duration @.050 like 220 -230 range and Compression in the 9.5 - 10.0 /1 Then a small stall converter like 2200-2400 range. Just my opinion. I have built a few engines in the past including 2- 350 olds small blocks .My 442 has a 68 olds 350 small block that runs mid 12's @ 5400ft altitude which equates to High 11's at sea level. that is with a Hydralic cam and #6 heads with 11./1 compression. Hope this helps.

 

I stand corrected, I forgot that the SBC 400 rod is .135 shorter.

I like what you are saying here-I am looking at doing something similar myself, especially because you get a simple full floater (ANOTHER 20 HP), plus the weight reduction.

I did not say he OUGHT to fill the heads- It's just a cruiser. WHY?

I just don't think he needs it.

Hell he does not even need forged pistons for this.
It will shred the tires, if he upgrades the trans, and if tuned correctly.

My Opinion
Jim

 

Most #6 heads do NOT HAVE THE BIG VALVES.
I've had 3 sets, NONE came with the big valves.
I have 1 set right now in my garage with 1.88 intakes.
I can get pic's for you.
Not sure if he want's to get a set shipped to Sweden, and then hunt for better fuel,
but compression is power.
You have some good Ideas for a street/strip car.
Jim

P.S. Summit sells L2320F (350 Olds) pistons for $350 a set, the 400 pistons will be around $80 less.

 

Sorry I was under the impression that#6 heads did come with the big valves. I stand corrected. But he should use better heads than the junk#8's Check the cc and have them decked to raise the compression. Mine started out at 66cc (supposed to be 64cc From Factory) They are now 62cc.

 

If Sweden is like England their premium is 97 octane. Is that correct Panos? You can get more aggressive on the compression with that available.

 

Yes we have 95,98,100 so the fuel is not a prob.The biggest problem i have right now is getting parts over here,you see if i buy parts ,lets say from Summit worth 2000usd+800-2000 p&p+25% taxes on total.I can maybe avoid that %&##% 25% if i can find some kind soul over there that can recieve the items for me and then send it here on a private basis or if i can make them write *Gift* on the package which i doubt they will,So u can see my frustation right now

For that ammount of money i can almost buy a crate engine

 

Ok now i took the engine appart,it seems that it was earlier rebuilt the pistons are 0,30 and all the journals 0,20 ,but i must go down to 0,30 because they dont look too good ,one cam bearing is literally melted and 4 pistons had broken comp.rings i really think i revved it too much

 

Check the bores, you might be able to use .030 Speedpro's. Those pistons need extra clearance anyways. Skip the restrictors and high volume oil pump. The 7 quart pan is a good idea. The rest is also a good idea. Rocket Racing is coming out with SBO H? beam rods, should be ready soon. Check out their website and contact them. Smitty at MJ performance is also another consideration.

 

Valve springs are another good idea, matched to cam. That is a XE grind? The Lunati Voodoo series has more lift to duration than the XE series.

 

Ok now i came across a komplete 455(69) that was totally rebuilt (0,30 over brand new crank and isky 292 cam) he claims about 400hp for about 2500usd here in Sweden.The engine had run for about 800miles before the guy crashed the car and took the motor out again BUT that was 14 years ago The engine is sitting since in his home with oil in it and he said that he turned it from time to time now what do u guys think? is it worth the risk? and how about the swap? i have to keep my tranny(st300) till it blows does it bolt in with the BB? motormounts,headers etc.

 

2,500 is high for an engine that hasn't ran for 14 years more like 300 for engine and trans would be right. Maybe 500. Than I would pull it a part and check everything and oil everything up and install new gaskets. You put it in with out doing that more than likely brake it. You would use your sbo engine mounts on the bbo don't need to spend the extra money on bbo mounts. You would need to by bbo headers to make it work.

 

$2500 USD (are you using euro's?) is a bit expensive for an older engine like this, depending on how much he is willing to toss in with it.
What was it from? Any more info on it?

Make sure that it is not a Pontiac, or Buick 455, and that the valve covers look like they could bolt onto your 350.

It will bolt up to that old 2 speed.

Use new motor mounts for the old engine-all bolt holes are in same place anyway.

You will have to get new headers.

BTW! Do not plan on revving the 455 too high.
NO REASON to take a 455 Olds over 5000 rpm with stock heads.
Jim

 

The engine was sitting in a 442 (69) and the price is 2500us Dollars!Everything is about 5 times more expensive here especially olds parts (if u can find anything) thats why everybody drives with a Chevy in it (that would be my other alternate but i really want to avoid that)

 

With your positive "Oldsmobile Pure" attitude, we will just have to find you a relative here in the states that is willing to send you 175 pounds worth of scarfs, and muffins for the holidays.

Thank you for not giving up on the engine even though it is not a Chevy.

That's my opinion.
Jim in Phx
BTW, there is another guy in your neck of the woods that races these things.
He shows up quite a bit on Realoldspower.com
He may have some spare parts.
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=42983

 

Thank u very much for your kind wordsAnd yes i ve found numerious 383 drop in engines with 420 hp between 4-5 k but after i drove my car last summer i cant compare an olds with a chevy engine in the way they run and sound.The best was when i drove away from an Impala (65) with a mild 350 (380hp he claimed with alot crome etc) when we stoped and opened the hood i can never forget hes face "What the F**k is that? he asked me (look my alboum of my enginebay how it was )So hell yes i want an olds engine

 

Ok i found a nice 455 from '69 almost complete,only carb is missing.The engine has C heads(are those good?) 0,30 bore all new bearings flat top pistons mild cam and edel.intake for about 1800 usd or less maybe.What do u guys think?How much hp did this motors made back at the time?

 

C Heads are considered the "best" flowing heads and with those flat top pistons I would guess that its high compression

 

Ok thanks for the heads-up.I really dont know much about bbo but this one sound quite good.Can i expect maybe 400 hp? I think i have to be really nice to my wife tonight he he

 

Ok now i have the specs of the cam,not that "mild" as i thought

v.lift-.467 dur.-282 dur 0.50-224 lobe c.-108

rpm range 2500-6000

Isnt that a little radical? And i sure dont have a 2500 conv.(orig st300 tranny) but this engines made a lot of torgue down low Right?

 

That's pretty mild for a big block, you won't need a stall converter. The engine sounds pretty good I would say go for it.

 

X2

 

X3 sounds like your best choice considering the price you have to pay to get the Olds engine. I admire the fact that you are striving to keep your Olds all Olds. Kudos to you!!!

 

Well i was to late the engine is sold now olds engines dont exactly grow on tries down here.Now im really frustrated and out of options and summer is near.

 

What about shipping from the states. I live in Washington State near Seattle which is a port city. If we could find you a engine local I could get it to a container if you aranged the shipping. Its a thought. We can put out a call to all OLDS guys local to find one. Let me know what you think

Pat

 

Well that is very nice of u,that u guys willing at help someone u just met at the internet,im speechless Im brainstorming right now and looking all around ebay mostly,the few i asked want between 550-1300 for shipping an engine to Sweden (most companies dont know if it differs for a privat person) and i dont have any clue at all how i could fix shipping from the states.I have to ask around a little first how that could work.If i have do buy something from there it must be in good working condition without the need of machine work otherwise i dont think is worth it (as ex. they charge about 180 usd to replace cambearings here).

And Pat u seem to be an awsome guy thanks again i appreciate what u try to do

 

I am going to the local chapter meeting on the Osmobile Club of America on Sunday. I'll ask the guys there about a good running 455 and have them spread the word around and see what we can find. Hang in there

 

Ha ha thanks ur the man!

 

Are you anywhere near
Solrosvagen 2 ..
178 38 Ekero O
Sweden ?
I have a real good friend that lives there with a few Oldsmobiles. Maybe he could help?

 

Dang...85' took my recommendation!

I think he hit the nail on the head! I'm running a 72' 350 with flat tops, bored 30 over, stock crank, 7a heads, stock rocker arms and rods (although I do have roller tips in the box), Edelbrock Performer Intake, Edelbrock Thunder AVS Carb (650 cfm), pertronix dist., and Hooker Competition headers to 2.5" pipes. The Trans is the stock 350 with a shift kit and a Hughes 2100 Stall in it. My dragon is only 700 miles off the rebuild so I haven't Dyno'd the thing yet, but I took her out the other day and left one of the local Hondas scratching their heads on how my tail lights got so small so fast!!

Btw; here's the specs on my cam... Crane Cam #80452 with 272 intake/284 exhaust * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 216 intake/228 exhaust * Gross valve lift: .484 in. intake/.512 in. exhaust.

And if you can find #6 heads, I'd recommend those over the 7a. #6 had a 1.995" intake and 7a are 1.875". I believe that the exhaust is the same. Anyway, Good luck man!