Howdy fellas,

After a 9 year barning I need a few pointers I guess.

I am trying to fire my 53,000 330 4v.
1st- after cranking I cannot get the fuel pump to pump. I took it off, checked (it seems to work), primed it and also checked the carb filter (as well as a new inline filter, new lines. Drawing from a gas can w/ 2" of fuel in it)

2nd- new points, condensor, wires and plugs, cap and rotor are GOOD. I dressed all the connections, checked for broken obvious wires, none.

Am I missing something? I cannot think of what else is OPEN to not get any spark. I should be able to at least get it to stumble start with starter fluid and or gas direct into carb.

I have a new 40030 pump on the way btw.

Any help would be great.

 

If you had the distributor out, make sure it was reinstalled correctly. Is the firing order correct? Are the points gapped correct? Do you have power to the coil"+" with the key in the start and run position? Have you verified spark at the plug


Do you have fuel at the carb? If you look down in the carb and operate the throttle, do you see 2 solid streams spraying?

 

Well, what exactly is your problem? No fuel to the carb, or no spark (or both)?

If the pump will draw from an external gas can the problem is obviously somewhere upstream from the pump. Look for rusted hard lines, cracked and leaking rubber lines (especially the lines from the tank sender to the hard line on the frame), or a clogged filter sock inside the tank.

If you don't have spark, obviously perform the usual troubleshooting steps. There are several threads on this site that list those steps.

 

Okay lemme clarify..

I have no spark at the coil I think. I mean I just jumped it off of the intake to see a spark. ( I dont remember how to check this better)

Joe BOTH,
The lines are new from the gas can to the pump, from the pump to the carb. No obvious breaches. I am drawing gas directly from a 5 gallon can on a cinder block. Can to pump, pump to carb...No other lines involved.
Oh Joe, I did remove the ignition switch, unplug it from the harness and re-install it so maybe I jacked the switch up. I tried to search (obviously before wasting ya'll time) and didn't find anything specific I could use, Sorry.

Eric,
The fuel is direct from a 5 gallon can of new gas w/ new rubber lines and filter. New plugs, wires, points, condensor, good rotor (as far as I can tell) good cap (as far as I can tell) was only a few hundred miles on cap and rotor before barning. BTW I just installed the points out of the box. I am just trying a fire so I think it should work out of the box insofar as a quick fire up, yes?

Does this shed more light?

I dont know how to troubleshoot the ignition system other than what I have already done. I guess there must be more to it.

 

Whether your running off a can or the tank is irrelevant as long as the fuel can get to the pump. Do you have fuel spraying in the carb while looking down into it and operating the throttle? Installing new points in the distributor requires them to be gapped @ .016 or a dwell of 30.


Do you have 12v at the positive post of the coil when the key is in the start and run position?

 

You did gap the points, No?



If you had searched for "Troubleshooting Points Ignition" you would have found this.

- Eric

 

Bypass your wiring by using a jumper wire from pos on yout battery to the pos on the coil.

Henry

 

Yeah I missed that...thanks though. No didn't gap the points at all, yet. Just put em in out of the box.


Eric I aint got NO fuel. I mean no fuel to the clear inline filter so for sure no fuel squirting into the barrel's. I dont have a volt meter Eric, so I guess I should go get one. This is embarrassing dammit. I look like a noob here.

This is enough info to keep me troubleshooting awhile so thanks.

 

Do I need to comment here?

- Eric

 

No dude, you don't. I get it and thanks and appreciate the link. That is most definitely what I was looking for and somehow missed.
I know you are sick of such a redundant thread and I feel like a noob tool for having done it. Like I said, embarrassing. This ain't my first rodeo just the first since having a cerebellar stroke 8 months ago.

Again thanks,

 

First gap the points to .016 on one of the corners of the cam lobe. Then make sure your gas can is gravity feeding fuel to the pump. Then make sure you have fuel to the carb and spark at the plugs.

 

Ding Ding Ding Ding I think we have a winner!

 

Eric, the can is just stilling on a cinder block under the pump. I remember doing it this way 15 years ago to start this car after sitting 7 years.

I guess you mean I need to raise the gas can higher than the pump then?
I will set that gap and try the other Eric's tutorial for troubleshooting the ignition system. I'll get this sooner or later LOL.

I am off to Weatherford to my daughters Phi Theata Kappa induction ceremony.

 

No, the fuel pump should be able to draw from the can even if it's slightly below the pump.

 

I was pretty sure that the gas can setup
was ok Joe. I am obviously gonna need a more diligent eye when examining the car. I have a lot more rodent damage this time around than when dad and I resurrected this car back in '96.
Hey the good news is I got keys now lol.

 

The fuel pump should have no problem drawing fuel from a bucket, but sometimes it doesn't prime really well at cranking speed, so if you gap your points, get a spark, pour a couple ounces of gas into the carb and crank it up, it'll probably run fine.

- Eric

 

I just like to eliminate the chance of no fuel to the pump and have a positive flow.


If you feel you may have wiring issues, then running the jumper wire to the coil from the battery as stated above is a good idea also.

 

I am +1'ing u Eric L. I am banking that is the culprit 👀

 

I dribble a little into the primaries and then use a small funnel and pour some gas into the float bowl vent tube to fill the bowl. Filling the float bowl allows the engine to run for a lot longer once it fires and lets the fuel pump do its job.

 

I suspect you're more organized than I am.

By the time I actually found a funnel, I'd have been able to pour an ounce or two from a 5 gallon can several times.

Whichever way you choose, be sure to put the air cleaner cover back on and screw it down before you start the car - if splashes of stray gas go on fire, they can cause a problem if they're in the open, but will just be sucked into the engine and burned if the air cleaner is closed.

- Eric

 

We all have our own ways of doing it, some people live a lot safer than others. Going into details on those approaches would probably be a very lively conversation.

 

..... Yes like some would just take a swig outa the 5gal can and pfffff rite down the carb done . No I would never

 

It fired..and idled WOOT

A coil wire massage (new wire's connection sucked), Eric's tutorial and the jumper did it THANKS..

I think the ignition switch might be the culprit. The car wouldn't turn OFF....had to yank the negative cable off the battery. I read that that could be the main issue. So a new ingintion cylinder and switch....maybe.

Thanks to all the help.

Oh once I got it to stumble with that float fill up, primary prime and starter fluid the fuel pumped worked fine. Yeehaww

 

Put-r-ther... Jump in the old girl and ride her like she's all new to ya !!! Enjoyment thats what I call it.

 

The jumper wire was the culprit for it not to turn off because everything else was bypassed. Glad you got it going.

 

Awesome man

 

Oh duh...that makes perfect sense.