Jautuori

I have a 1967 cutlass with a 330 in it, the left side (when at the wheel) makes a slight tick when it’s warm at idle, and maybe around 3000 rpm’s when driving it gets a bit louder. How would I go about checking the lifters? And what would actually be making the noise inside. I’ve only ever messed with valves and such on a dirtbike, I get the layout of the pushrods and everything but what is actually banging together?

oldcutlass

Ticking of lifters = loss of preload. Stock Oldsmobile valve train is preset and non-adjustable. The noise can be caused by a collapsed or worn lifter, worn rockers or bridge, bent push rod, or a worn cam lobe. The way to the lifters is to remove the intake manifold, then the bridges/rockers, and push rods. Then pull the lifters one by one and inspect the mating surfaces. Make sure you keep everything in order to go back in the same positions they came out of.

Jautuori

Would it be worth it to run some seafoam in the oil and change it before I start tearing into it? The oil has gotta be at least 2 years old.

rocketraider

Change oil and filter and substitute one quart of automatic transmission fluid, blue Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil for one quart of engine oil. Run the engine 1000 miles or so and change oil and filter again. These lubricants will clean any dirty or sticking lifters and will usually quiet lifter noise unless the noise is in fact a mechanical issue.

If there's still noise, use an automotive stethoscope to pinpoint which part of the valvetrain it's coming from. Holding the handle of a long screwdriver to your ear while moving it along the rocker covers will work for this too.

If you find worn or failed lifters, you can replace them and install the new lifters on the old cam. Make sure pushrods are clean, straight and not plugged, and rocker arms aren't worn where they ride the pushrods.

Good luck. Car engines aren't that different from bike engines, they just don't turn up as tight!

*edit* Seafoam will clean gunk out of engines too, as will an engine flush containing butyl cellosolve. The risk with these is they'll dissolve the mess and it all ends up in the pan. From there the filter can clog, or worst case the oil pickup screen will clog. You should figure on dropping the oil pan and cleaning out the sludge especially if you use the butyl cellosolve flush product.

edzolz

Why would you not change your oil any sooner than that? It should be changed at least every six months regardless of the miles.

Sugar Bear

If using SeaFoam I'd change the oil very soon afterward, it is a pretty strong solvent and wouldn't want to drive around with it in there. With Marvel Mystery or ATF I'd leave it for a while maybe a 1,000 miles or so.

Good luck!!!