330 Flush Questions
330 Flush Questions
Howdy fellas,
I have the clip and water pump OFF my 66 Holiday Cutlass. I have some ideas based on suggestions from ya'll about resealing the timing cover when I reinstall the water pump, however I would like to flush the block and heater core without having to re install the core support, water neck and pump if I can.
I dont have a clue if I can or the procedure to do it the way I mentioned if I even can. I thought I would ask ya'll and see if someone might have a link (I searched but to no avail) or a suggestion.
Thanks guys
I have the clip and water pump OFF my 66 Holiday Cutlass. I have some ideas based on suggestions from ya'll about resealing the timing cover when I reinstall the water pump, however I would like to flush the block and heater core without having to re install the core support, water neck and pump if I can.
I dont have a clue if I can or the procedure to do it the way I mentioned if I even can. I thought I would ask ya'll and see if someone might have a link (I searched but to no avail) or a suggestion.
Thanks guys
Stick a garden hose in the block holes & heater hoses and giver hell. Thats how I flush the heater cores. A lot of times the water pump pressure/flow isnt enough to extract everything from the heater core. You can do the same with the block. Get creative with rubber stopper plugs so you can seal the garden hose end to the block on one side or the other. Easy on the water pressure not too much just enough or you'll pop the core(s). Do it until it runs clear. Obviously with the cover off the front of the engine you run the risk of water entering the pan so pay attention.
As Eric said flushing is usually best preformed with the system intact before you tear it apart. I like to flush with the old parts so your not tossing contaminates at the new pump seals and T-stat. Thats why I recommended the hose method for your case cuz its already apart. Be sure to empty all of the raw water when your finished flushing. Use low pressure compressed air or a wet dry vac to extract the raw water. Once you've replace the pump, stat, hoses etc...then fill it back up with distilled water high grade coolant 50/50 mix. I like the premixed stuff. I also run pump lubricant additive. Dont use raw water to mix with the coolant.
As Eric said flushing is usually best preformed with the system intact before you tear it apart. I like to flush with the old parts so your not tossing contaminates at the new pump seals and T-stat. Thats why I recommended the hose method for your case cuz its already apart. Be sure to empty all of the raw water when your finished flushing. Use low pressure compressed air or a wet dry vac to extract the raw water. Once you've replace the pump, stat, hoses etc...then fill it back up with distilled water high grade coolant 50/50 mix. I like the premixed stuff. I also run pump lubricant additive. Dont use raw water to mix with the coolant.
Last edited by droldsmorland; May 20, 2014 at 11:08 AM.
I was thinking of getting the old pump to spin some, leaving out the new stat...get spare gaskets and put that **** back together....throw the core support back on and flush it from the top to bottom through the upper hose and the disconnecting the heater hoses and flushing the heater core separately with easy water pressure...that way sealing the timing cover back temporarily anyway.
I have never uncorked the block plugs and dont know the first thing about doing that.
I have never uncorked the block plugs and dont know the first thing about doing that.
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