Well I managed to get the Fuel pump to draw the Fuel up and into the Carb, it took a can and a half of Easy Start and jumper leads from my DD to keep the Battery alive, the Pump is still going to have it's rebuild when the parts get here, but for now..she's a runner.

And now I know that the exhaust is blowing


A whole lotta smoke, and quite a bit of steam from the filler cap.

 

F__k the MOT - Time to take 'er for a drive!

Nice!

- Eric

 

Way to go Eric lmao....

 

X2... a lot of that smoke may disappear.

 

Cheers other Eric...

I need to ask you guys about petrol, is it OK to use unleaded? Or do I need an additive?

 

I am not an authority on that series of engine, but from my experience with other engines, and considering the way you will likely drive the car, normal old unleaded of the proper octane rating should be fine.

Don't ask me what the proper octane rating is, though.

- Eric

 

Just run it on unleaded pump gas, she will last many years before problems may or may not occur with the valves. I have 20 years on a small block Chevy motor with no problems. It's good to see the old girl on the road again... Tedd

 

We here in Mayberry haven't had leaded or ethanol free fuel for about 10 years. No issues with any of our cars.

 

The smoke from the filler cap is blow-by. It may go dwon some when you run it around a bit. On the 62 88 I just bought same thing-blow-by I Just changed the oil and filter and added a quart of Lucas Oil Sabilizer. AS soon as I get plates for the car I will start driving around and see if it coats the cylinder walls as they say. Lucas makes great products so we shall see.

 

Many thanks guys, I'll drain the tank and get some fresh stuff in there.

 

Thanks robski,...tomorrow I hope I'll get the oil changed and new filter on.

 

It supposed to coat the cylinder walls and reduce or eliminate the the blow by. Great reviews on the product.....I will settle for a reduction>>>

 

When I change the oil, i'd really like to remove the pan and clean it out, anyone know if this is a difficult thing to do? the reason I ask is, when I had my Chevy C10 the only way to remove the oil pan was to pull the engine as it wouldn't clear the cross member, thus turning a simple job into a major one.
I've not had a chance to check it out myself as the weather is bad and I don't have the luxury of a garage.

 

I dont know about your question, but I would start a new thread and ask. Probably get more replies from the guys with the 50's Oldsmobiles.

 

The engine don't have to be removed to drop the pan,but if I remember correctly ,you will need to drop he steering rods,then loosen one engine mount,and Jack the engine up a bit for the pan to come off. Your service manual should give you details on exactly what to do,and it's a lot more accurate than my memory these days. Larry

 

Wow it is cool you got it going! I also think after oil is change some of the blow by will stop. Keep us update on progress and let us know when you drive her down the road!

 

Cheers Larry, I found the instruction for pan removal in the manual as you said.

Thanks wr, I will do.

 

I have a 56 with the same family engine. as far as fuel goes I run unleaded ethonal free 91 octane. I grew up with model a fords and a 53 ford with a flat head v8. the biggest thing I found with unleaded is it helps to keep it a bit on the rich side. keeps the heat down and that's what will destroy standard valve seats. Lead additive will cause you problems with it clumping and clogging small passages . if you add anything to the fuel I would recommend Marvel mystery oil. that will act as the top end lubricant that the lead use to do. you will love how the 303 pulls. great engine!!!

 

Thanks bigin.

 

A couple of summers ago, I picked up a 48,000 mile '50 88 that had been sitting since 1976. Thus summer, I decided to see if it would run.


The engine turned, so I put fuel and spark to it and it started and ran like it had never been stored. After 20 minutes or so, I placed the selector lever in drive and it went into gear. Next reverse and it worked too. I then jacked the rear up and let it shift through all the gears.


By the end of the afternoon, I was driving it around the yard (no brakes) and smiling from ear to ear! Another one saved and headed for the road!


Next year comes the brakes and other things and maybe the year after, it will be on the road.

 

This is a good story Bill, put a smile on my face....good luck with it mate.

 

The motor sounds good. It is hitting on all 8 cylinders and I did not hear any rocker arm or lifter noise. Therobski mentioned Lucas additive. Anything they make is a good product. Restore is another good product also. I don't know if you have both of these available in the UK. Here is a link to Restore.

http://restoreusa.com/

Congrats. You are moving right along.

 

Yes I was pleasantly surprised with how she sounded Red, remembering how the 454 in the Truck sounded the Rocket is a whole lot quieter.

Thanks for the help and words of encouragement.

Edit; Both are available over here...now which one to choose?

 

I think the Lucas and the Restore are 6 of one and half dozen of the other.

 

You have many good suggestions. Here are mine. The engine sounds good. Don't worry about the smoke and vapors to begin with. Dropping the pan is not a comfortable job. If it's not really necessary, avoid it. Do an oil change with proper oil if it hasn't been done for a while. If the engine has a filter, put a new one. Use a well fitting 6 point wrench on the filter. Be careful with the gasket. Don't scrape it out with a steel tool. The housing's base is aluminum and it can be gouged. Fresh fuel is always preferred. Non ethanol is best, but the engine will tolerate some ethanol. If you hear knocking the octane level is too low. I use "premium" in my '55 (91 or higher). Yours is a bit lower compression and may do well with lower octane. The U.S. and Europe may be using a different octane rating system, so your numbers may differ some. If you drive it be sure the transmission and rear end are full. It seems like things are coming along nicely.

 

Thank you Ozzie, my only reason for dropping the pan was over concern that there may be a lot of sediment in the bottom, I've got no evidence of that as such, i'm just sort of basing on the fact the rest of the car has been so neglected...Example; the spark plugs were loose and some seized and rusted, the leads cracked and split, I also suspect the brake fluid reservoir is empty as the pedal is going all the way to the floor and the dipstick in the reservoir is seized and wont unscrew (my next job)

But i'm easily talked out of a big job, so i'll just do the oil change and filter for now...lol the unleaded fuel here is 95 Octane or Super unleaded at 98 so I'll drain the tank and get some fresh juice in there.

 

For future reference, just remember that your 95 octane is 89 octane over here, and your 98 octane is 92 or 93 octane over here.

- Eric

 

It may be that you are correct about the sediment in the pan, but try to verify it before taking off the pan. Inspection of the filter housing, probing through the pan's drain, and looking inside the rocker covers all might provide clues as to what's in the pan. If you have one of those inspection cameras with a probe small enough to go through the pan's drain, it might tell a lot. Sometimes getting a leak free oil pan, after remove/replace can be a challenge.

 

Bugger! I got your answer after I drained the remaining fuel and put the cheaper 95/89, I replaced the old filter with one of those corrugated paper ones, and I discovered that the hole in the top of the filter wouldn't slip over the little post bit at the bottom of the pump, and now she's back to not starting.
Eric, the fuel that came out of the tank was clean, but red in color...is that the color of US gasoline or do you think there's an additive in there?

I was under there today Ozzie and it's pretty wet and mucky with oil, it's leaking from the gasket at the front main seal and a little from the back, so I think i'll need to take it off anyway to replace the gasket.



I also managed to get the brake fluid reservoir dipstick un-seized, and the thing was empty, has been for a while by the looks of the dried up crap on the end of the dipstick, I topped it up with Dot 3 and the brake pedal started to respond, but they need bleeding.

 

that fuel may have had stabil in it or marvel oil. its hard to tell without smelling it if its bad. at least for me. As far as the pan removal goes its really an easy job. I would recommend doing it. I replaced the cam, lifters and timing set in the car. the top end wasn't horribly sludged up. a few months later I had an oil leak from the front cover at the oil pan. when I pulled the pan the oil pick-up was almost totaly blocked. I soaked it in gas for a couple days and then finished cleaning it with brake cleaner. I did all this with the engine in the car. I was on my back with jackstands holding the car up. it takes some time and you will need to pull the oil filter housing off to make the back bolts more accessible. mine is a dual exhaust 324, so if you are single exhaust I think you will have to pull the crossover pipe. I also don't know about your car and having to jack up the front of the engine. mine is a 56.

 

X2 on the red fuel, it may have had an additive added. If it were bad fuel it would smell like varnish.

 

When I was just a "Pup" my brother bought my neighbors 53 88 for me. He was in the Army one his way home from Fort Riley and the 303 cam apart. For $35.00 dollars I started learning and took the car apart. Eventually it was hauled off to the boneyard. So here I am today 50 years later still hobbying with Olds...... Lots of memories, I got my first kiss from a girl in the front seat! Im on the road for work now but I have a picture of that car on my desk top at home.....

 

As a dirty old man I would like to see a picture of the girl in the front seat.... Tedd

 

Heck we were 12-13 years OLDS-puppy love. ( in the front seat not the back, it was exploritory Ted). This was in Milwaukee in the middle of winter too. I was trying to warm up.

 

she was very beautiful like a Daryl Hanna type

 

If the filter is dimensionally correct otherwise, that hole at the top could be carefully enlarged if it is close.


O.K., but if you have to remove an exhaust crossover pipe which has been on there for many years, it might be best to split the attaching nuts where it connects to the manifold instead of breaking off the studs and having to remove the manifold to extract the broken studs (which sometimes results in having to remove the cylinder heads to extract the broken manifold bolts). It's so sad that the manufacturers don't put anti-seize compound on their exhaust fasteners or use less corrosive fasteners. BE CAREFUL!

 

Moms don't count...

 

Thanks Bigin.

So should I put an additive in there again, will it start easier or run better etc?

LOL

Daryl Hanna types are very welcome...

lol

 

So should I put an additive in there again, will it start easier or run better etc?

I wouldn't at this point, get it tuned and running correctly and then if you want to add something you can.

 

OK, cheers Eric.