I'm shooting for a 1st start this afternoon and want to verify the correct procedure. But first; I dropped the trans pan to change the filter and gasket so it was empty. I filled the torque converter as much as I could while still being able to install it upright (normal position). I put about 3/4 of a gallon of Dexron in and the stick reads way over-full. I'm assuming it needs to run before I'll know the proper level? Same question for the power steering fluid and antifreeze. So while I'm breaking in the cam (idling it about 2k rpm?) I should be running around topping off fluids?
Now, for the procedures....

1. Charge the battery (which I'm doing now)

2. Put gas in the tank (will 5 gallons be enough?)

3. Prime the engine

4. Fill the float bowl with a squirt bottle of some kind

5. Keep the fire extinguisher close

6. Take a deep breath and cross fingers

7. Start it up and immediately turn the curb idle screw up to around 2k rpm for about 20 minutes

8. Watch all that beautiful paint burn off

Is it okay top stab the distributor at 10 degrees btdc with the rotor pointing at the #1 tower or do I have to start at zero? It's just a clearance thing but I can work it out if I need to.

 

Though it may offend your sensibilities, it's also just fine to pour a few ounces of gas into the primaries and give it a crank (with the air cleaner screwed on tightly) - she should start up and run long enough for the fuel pump to fill the bowl.

5 gallons of gas should be a lot more than enough.

I'd keep a timing light handy and the distributor slightly loose, so as soon as it starts to run, you can take a quick reading of the timing and give it a twist to get it close to right, then you can mess with it more later.

You do have an oil pressure gauge and a temperature gauge connected so that you can keep an eye on things, right?
This is the time that you need them.

You've squirted some oil in the cylinders and all over the place, right?

Can't think of anything else right at the moment.

Tell us how it goes!

- Eric

 

You might vary your engine speed occasionaly during the cam break-in period. Just don't let it fall to idle. Good rtime to check for small leaks (water, oil, etc.). Re-tighten your valve covers after break-in.

 

To me you look like your on the right track. I use just water when I do the first fire up, just incase you have a leak, not as bad and messy as antifreeze. I also have a big box fan to put in front of the car to help cool. I would keep the timing where it is. I also like to have another person around, to watch the gages, and keep the ideal up, and change it a little up and down, above 2K. Also with two, you can check and change the timing. Also check that tran right away, if the convertor was completely empty, you will probably need more, and you should have it handy and able to put it in right away. Good luck, always scary on first start up. I also have the basic hand tool layed out and in easy reach if needed.

 

You are doing this in a well ventilated area aren't you?. Exhaust gas is highly toxic and was a popular method of suicide in pre catalytic converter days.
You seem to have the basics covered and others have added useful nuggets of helpful advice.
Don't worry about fine tuning the engine until you have completed the initial running in, if you have the timing and carburettor close to where it should be the engine will start easily enough, and you are simply getting everything to bed in and settle down.


Roger.

 

I think you have it covered but wanted to wish you good luck.

Concerning the trans, run the shifter through all the gear detents (for a moment) before finalizing the level of fluid. I too suspect you'll need a good deal more fluid.

 

We need Video!!!!!!

 

I know nothing about this... I just thru a post in here to cheer you on !!! Put-er-ther and wish you the best of luck for your hard work.

 

How about pulling the distributor and spinning the oil pump? Get her good and lubed!!!!

Craig

Edit Oops missed #3! your on it! I just did this about a month a go! Give er hell!

 

Rats, I'm afraid I missed my chance for today. I got called to town. And then I realized I don't have a pcv hose. Dernit, nothing close enough to fit. 1st thing tomorrow though, I promise

Eric-chanic, are you saying I should squirt oil into the spark plug holes besides priming it? I didn't know about that one.
And the gauges, I don't have any, no. Are we talking about the kind that mounts inside the cabin or is this something external and temporary (and hopefully inexpensive)?

1. Timing light I have handy. So 10 degrees btdc is cool?
2. Small (and large) leak detection - good advice (crossing my fingers I don't need it).
3. Vary engine speed above 2k - check
4.Water only and box fan - check
5. Tools handy
6. Ventilation? I don't understand....
7. Run shifter through gears - good one
8. VIDEO! - check
9. Priming - already part of the plan - check

Thanks for the good juju everyone. I can't wait to see how I did.

 

Water only ??? Why you doing it without coolant and adding water pump lubricant ? Jus askin Mac.

 

I do it with water only because antifreeze is expensive and toxic. If there is a leak, I just lose water and don't have a poisonous substance all over the place.
I don't use water pump lubricant because the plain water won't be in long enough to warrant it (it's mainly to help the seals remain pliable over time).
I drain and fill with my choice of coolant after the break in.

 

Let er rip, I agree with most all the other suggestions. If you have some time I'd order in a bottle of this, add with 4 qts of whatever oil your using. Some car dealers stock it. Change the oil and filter soon after break in.

 

Everything looks good to me. Don't forget to double check all hose clamps etc. When I broke mine in, the night before, I got a phone call while installing the lower radiator hose. Well, it took awile and decided to call it a night. Next day on start up she took right off and after about 10 minutes, POOF! Off she came. What a mess with antifreeze. Water only sounds good after that. Anyways, fixed the clamp, re filled the radiator, and continued on with the break in. Been running great for going on 5 years now.

 

That's what I'd do. Well, if I'd had the heads off, I'd have wiped the cylinders with oil, but if I hadn't, and if the engine had been sitting for a long time, I'd give it a squirt in each one and turn it over a few times.
Can't hurt, might help to break up some fine surface rust.


I'd go out and get a $20 set at the local auto parts store, temperature and oil pressure at least, though they often come in sets of three, with a voltmeter.
In my own case, I keep my eyes open at flea markets, and whenever I see a set more or less unused in the package, I grab 'em for $5-$10, that way I've got 'em if I need 'em.

And, no, you don't have to mount them, just hook them up in the engine compartment, so you can see what's going on as you fiddle with it.


That's where I'd go - probably a bit advanced, but it will run well at idle and stay cool.

- Eric

 

Good luck Mac!

I have been following your motor threads since you started because my own motor is being rebuilt (by my mate at his restoration business though) and it also will be fired up for the first time any day now.

It's a nervous time!

 

The garage doors are wide open, or it's on your driveway.


Roger.

 

Doug at Carcraft?. They do a good job there.
Incidentally a small car club (Tec Warriors) meet up for breakfast at The Cabin café opposite Carcraft most 2nd Sundays, not guaranteed in the show season though.




Roger.

 

Good Luck!!!

 

Guess the winky face didn't make the flight over the pond...


Also, though it is certainly not recommended to tune your car in a sealed room, I have never heard of anyone dropping dead from CO poisoning while working on a car.
That's usually caused by malfunctioning or improper home heating equipment.

- Eric

 

1.) Keep a lot of water on hand and ready to pour. When we started mine initially, there was lots of air trapped in the cooling passages, and the radiator nearly ran empty. A waterhose would be better. 2X on using plain water, you can drain it later to add anti-freeze, not a big deal.

2.) Make sure your carb is dialed in. This is not a time to be adjusting the idle mixture screws, especially while you are monkeying around with the initial timing. In hindsight, it would be a good idea to drop the carb on a working engine to be absolutely sure it doesn't run lean or flood.

3.) I ran expensive Royal Purple break-in oil (mineral based). Probably overkill, but at a minimum you need to be running the Lucas break-in additive (make sure it's not the normal Lucas oil additive, the containers look similar, or you might wipe a cam).

4.) Have 'competent' friends around to assist, give each one a job (like filling water, watching the tach, holding the video camera, etc...). If things go south, stop the engine, spend some time collecting thoughts, then try again.

Good luck!

 

Just an added thought. I always fill an empty radiator and engine on the intake inlet after removing the water neck and thermostat. Then top off the radiator. Has been working for me for 30 years and never have ran low on coolant during break in. Of course it always will take a little more after as it still will have pockets, but not an air lock per say. Good Luck!

 

Wow, I think Mac's list is getting pretty long about now ............

 

I will take all this into consideration when I get all the water leaks fixed
Thank you everyone!
Oh, and yes, the plan is to start it in the garage with the doors and window open but, if I find the time, back it out about ten feet after I get the idle up and top off the fluids.

 

Guess I missed the wink .
There have been accidental deaths recorded from people starting their cars in a closed garage and apparently while waiting for the engine to warm up have fallen asleep or more likely been overcome by fumes.
Certainly coroners verdicts of suicide have been recorded on people who have done it deliberately.


The point is co is toxic, not just an asphyxiant like co2. It enters the bloodstream and prevent red blood cells from functioning properly.


Roger.

 

It actually permanently bonds to red blood cells, unlike oxygen, which binds in the lungs and is released in the tissues, thus permanently making them useless, but is also does other damage to the body's cells, unrelated to the red blood cell damage.

However, if you are conscious, it takes effect slowly, with plenty of warning signs, such as headache and fatigue - unless you get tired and decide to take a nap in the back seat without turning the engine off, it's unlikely to get a chance to harm you while you work occasionally on your car (frequent daily exposure, like working in a shop without proper ventilation, is another story).

Now, having it enter the area while you're already asleep, or staying there intentionally, are a different thing.

- Eric

 

I could see someone with morning sleepiness starting the car and laying their head back "to rest" while it warms up and simply falling asleep. That's not how I operate. I sleep until the last possible moment and then race around like a mad man until I'm at work (usually an hour or two early so I can get work done before classes).
CO is additive, yes? A little each day can build up until one is ill?

 

What's your schedule knuckles? Is it coming up soon? I think I'm looking at Saturday for a first start. That is if it doesn't leak this time

 

This? Lol, do you forget a link, Eric?

 

Lucas is what's in there. And yeah, it's the break-in not the regular.

 

Here's the link, sorry:
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?partnumber=EOS

 

I totally agree with filling with H20 for the initial start. I thought I had been so carefully there was no way anything would leak. Guess what? Brand new thermostat was a POS. Car ran hot on break-in and puked antifreeze all over the floor. PS pump had been replaced but developed a leak around the cover. Turned out these were small issues but they sure interrupted what I thought would be a flawless break-in. Good luck with yours

 

Thanks Eric. I'm covered for zddp for now.

Yup, learned my lesson. Straight water this time

 

Hey, what about the the vacuum advance, hooked up for break-in or no? I'm assuming I can't really mess with the timing until I bring it off of cam break-in high idle anyway.

 

Yeah, it should be hooked up.

You want the engine to be happy.

- Eric

 

Happy engine = happy Mac

What's a good starting point for idle mixture screws? I've been doing a lot of searching and there are a lot of different answers. I'd rather go with info I trust. 2-3 turns out for starters? Then in or out for strongest vacuum? (I realize it won't make a difference during break in).

 

I'd start with 2 out. It won't be super important at this stage.

- Eric

 

Thanks Eric

 

2 turns out as the idle a/f mixture screws only effect idle quality. Once you crank the rpms up to 2500 your out of the idle circuit on the carb.

 

Yeah, I at least read that much
Would you guys suggest manifold vacuum or carb for the dist. vac can?
Sorry, I'm getting close and I'm nervous