1980 350 rocket build.
#1
1980 350 rocket build.
Ok so I have a bone stock all original 1980 350 rocket engine and I'm trying to figure the best way to build a mild street build. She is going to be my daily driver and I want to go to the drag strip maybe 4 times a year. So since I know I dont have the knowledge or even know where to start I was hoping someone wouldn't mind helping me out.
#2
Smog heads and windowed main web block are going to be your limiting factors, but shouldn't be hard to get some respectable performance out of your "last 350". Cutlassefi among others can help you develop a combination that works and delivers. He's in Florida and knows what he's doing.
#3
As said, weak block and heads. If you can find a 76 and earlier block is best, especially once machine work is involved. If you insist on building it, get the 3A heads crack checked. Former member Captjim confirmed it wasn't a myth. That and Ebay had a pile of NOS 3A heads for sale a few years back. All the later "A" heads have terrible, restrictive exhaust ports and a 1.5" exhaust valve, other than the 260 head. They will need some porting and W31 valves. Early 330/350 heads are the best bet with W31 2"/1.625" valves and bowls opened. There are hone to fit pistons from CP that with the 3A heads and Mahle with early 330/350 heads, both in a 4.065" bore size. But your block needs minimal wear for them to work. If you don't plan over much over 300 hp or 5000 rpm, your current block should be fine.
#4
As said, weak block and heads. If you can find a 76 and earlier block is best, especially once machine work is involved. If you insist on building it, get the 3A heads crack checked. Former member Captjim confirmed it wasn't a myth. That and Ebay had a pile of NOS 3A heads for sale a few years back. All the later "A" heads have terrible, restrictive exhaust ports and a 1.5" exhaust valve, other than the 260 head. They will need some porting and W31 valves. Early 330/350 heads are the best bet with W31 2"/1.625" valves and bowls opened. There are hone to fit pistons from CP that with the 3A heads and Mahle with early 330/350 heads, both in a 4.065" bore size. But your block needs minimal wear for them to work. If you don't plan over much over 300 hp or 5000 rpm, your current block should be fine.
I would look for a different block but it's the one that came in my 1980 olds and she ran great till she got parked do to the transmission going out. Also dont plan on any more then 300-350 hp. I will definitely look in to the valves and heads. Thanks for the information
#5
Smog heads and windowed main web block are going to be your limiting factors, but shouldn't be hard to get some respectable performance out of your "last 350". Cutlassefi among others can help you develop a combination that works and delivers. He's in Florida and knows what he's doing.
#6
Talk to Mark, that is a no brainer. Get him to build it. He will no doubt have core heads around. I would question the crank once pushing 350 hp as well. Honestly early heads mildly done, Mahle pistons and the right cam will get you there. Are you planning on headers and dual exhaust? It is 30 easy HP. Also upgrade to a 2000+ stall converter in the trans as well. Especially if you are leaving the stock 2.41 gears. Good luck.
#7
Talk to Mark, that is a no brainer. Get him to build it. He will no doubt have core heads around. I would question the crank once pushing 350 hp as well. Honestly early heads mildly done, Mahle pistons and the right cam will get you there. Are you planning on headers and dual exhaust? It is 30 easy HP. Also upgrade to a 2000+ stall converter in the trans as well. Especially if you are leaving the stock 2.41 gears. Good luck.
#10
I see you have an ultra rare 1980 442. And I can definitely understand the significance of keeping it's original engine.
Wanting a 75% increase in power is also understandable for late 70s early 80s vehicles. However that's a big ask of Olds engines after 1976. Unless you have a professional who knows it's inherent weaknesses build it...
On the other hand basic bolt ons and a nice tune can get you sorta close to 300 gross HP but nowhere near net. I'm talking headers, true dual exhaust, high flow cats, advance the timing, high test gas, and an open air cleaner. Your talking around 220 HP net if engine is healthy. Now to see and feel every bit of that power. You'll want to swap in a high performance 200-4R and 3.73 rear gear and your ride goes from running high 16s in the 1/4 to high 14s.
I believe your 442 is the lightest rwd version of all time. 220 HP net at 3300 LBS curb + driver with that set-up makes for a fun street performer.
P.S. because your engines specs are torque dominant. You may be able to see similar performance gains with a 3.42 rear gear and your stock transmission.
Wanting a 75% increase in power is also understandable for late 70s early 80s vehicles. However that's a big ask of Olds engines after 1976. Unless you have a professional who knows it's inherent weaknesses build it...
On the other hand basic bolt ons and a nice tune can get you sorta close to 300 gross HP but nowhere near net. I'm talking headers, true dual exhaust, high flow cats, advance the timing, high test gas, and an open air cleaner. Your talking around 220 HP net if engine is healthy. Now to see and feel every bit of that power. You'll want to swap in a high performance 200-4R and 3.73 rear gear and your ride goes from running high 16s in the 1/4 to high 14s.
I believe your 442 is the lightest rwd version of all time. 220 HP net at 3300 LBS curb + driver with that set-up makes for a fun street performer.
P.S. because your engines specs are torque dominant. You may be able to see similar performance gains with a 3.42 rear gear and your stock transmission.
#11
I'm in Bradenton....you need a block? Mark already has dibs on it...maybe you can convince him otherwise. haha. I've got a .030 403 block, too...and a set of 7A heads... Also have a 3.27 Mustang axle that will fit right under that G body of yours....
#13
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; November 24th, 2021 at 06:05 PM.
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