I am 15 and trying to learn about engines. My dad has a 67 Olds Cutlass convertible that I work on with him. He got an extra 330 for me to learn on and I am trying to take it apart. How do I get the heads off? I took all the head bolts off and there is a strange one sticking up out of the bottom of the head with a nut on the end. Does that need to be taken out. if so how do I get if off.

 

read this entire thred...


https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ing-motor.html

 

Get a deep well socket and take it off.

 

Welcome! The 330 is a great engine, it was the first Olds engine I worked on. It should have a steel crankshaft too instead of an iron one, this is a good thing! The bolt pictured needs to come out and go back in the same hole. When bolts look different from other ones there is a reason, in this case it would have been used to mount a bracket for an accessory such as the A/C compressor or alternator. If it is put back in the wrong hole the bracket would not line up. To remove the bolt use a deep socket or a wrench on the nut if there is room to turn the bolt/wrench.

When taking items off such as rocker arms, pushrods and lifters, keep them in order so they go back in the same place. When removing pistons use a ridge reamer and NUMBER them and the connecting rods. The connecting rod caps and the crankshaft main bearing caps MUST go back where they came from.

It is good that you ask questions. Take pictures and make notes as you take the engine apart.

Wear gloves to keep the chemicals off you and eye and hearing protection and a respirator when appropriate. I wish someone had told me this years ago but we just did not know. Start now and it will become second nature.

Have fun!!!

 

Welcome to the site. I have a 330 I hope to be dropping in my car very soon

As for the bolt, yeah a deep socket will do the trick, but if you don't have one, you may be able to get a wrench around that or even a ratcheting wrech since it's in such an open location.

Have fun and like mentioned, wear your gloves and saefty glasses

 

I, too, had a 330 (powered '64 f85 Cutlass) at age 15. When I turned 16, I got my license on a Thursday and Sunday was at Cecil County Drag-O-Way running K/SA. Got a trophy my first day!
Welcome aboard and ask away!!!

 

Welcome to the site, it's nice to get younger blood interested and into the old car hobby. The 330 is a great engine to learn the basics on with a non adjustable valve train. Basically plug and play.

 

You are very lucky to have a father who you can work with. You also can read the English language and compose coherent sentences with properly spelled words. The forum has a great wealth of information. Learn how to do searches on it. If you can't find the answer just ask in a new thread. If possible, get an Oldsmobile chassis service manual which covers the 330 and read the chapter which describes the engine. There are many photos and specifications. This will help.

 

Thank you guys for the advice on the head. Now I've got the head off and need your opinion. Do these pistons look to be in re-usable condition?

 

Well, you can't tell from just looking at the crowns - you need to check the rings and the ring lands and mic. up the skirts, but, sure, those crowns look good.

- Eric

 

And I'd like to add, its a very clean one too. Not much sludge, so it had regular oil changes.

 

Look just above the motor mount on the side of the block and you will see a plug with a 9/16" head IIRC and another one just forward of it. The other side of the block will be a mirror image. Removing the plugs will drain the block of coolant and save a lot of mess later. Be sure to catch it and keep it away from where any animals can get to it as the coolant is quite poisonous and they are attracted to it.

Mark which side is forward on the connecting rod or the top of the piston and number all of the rod caps, rods and main caps before removing them. They must go back facing the same way, attached to the same rod and in the same position on the crankshaft. If this is not done unnecessary and expensive machining costs will be needed.

The ridge at the top of each cylinder should be removed before removing any pistons to prevent breaking any piston ring lands.

Great work on removing the cylinder head, keep asking questions!

 

You have received a lot of good information. I'd like to re-emphasize the importance of care in dis-assembly so any reusable parts can be returned to their original location upon re-assembly. When parts have run together for years they are quite "used to each other" and will work better there than anywhere else. So make notes, photographs, mark parts, etc., to assure that all will go back where it came from. And if you have more questions, ask the forum. There are a lot of old guys (and some not so old) here that have many years of experience.

 

say what?
Do a google search on "upskirts" and see what shows up. Lots of helpful engine building tips probably.
:-)

 

Thank you guys so much for the help. Unfortunately I am now re-assembling the engine for winter. I don't want to be busting my knuckles in the cold. In the spring my father and I will most likely be buying an engine rebuild kit. Until then I will be browsing the forum. Thanks for the help so far, I'll keep you posted on when I take apart again.

 

Are you reassembling to drive or store it?

 

I'm storing it until it gets warmer in spring.

 

I would not put it back together, just oil the cylinders and cover it up.

 

I'd grease the cylinders and other machined surfaces.

If the oil runs off of just a bit of one place, and it rusts, you'll be really PO'd.

- Eric

 

And to add to the good advice from what others have said You might wan't to hold off buying that rebuild kit till the pistons have been removed and the cylinder wall and pistons are measured to see if you need to bore and new pistons. Nothing worse than buying a kit early and find out later that it can't be returned because of the time factor....Just a thought ..Tedd

 

What is wrong with asking dear old dad ?

 

What kind of grease/oil do I use on the cylinders. I already have the heads and intake manifold back on the engine.

 

Personally, I'd use a thin skim of the cheapest wheel bearing or axle grease you've got in the back of the garage.

- Eric

 

I use Lube A Plate just because that's what I have around but most any chassis lube will work fine same as the oil, any motor oil will work. Putting it loosely back together isn't a bad idea ether, keeps every thing together and helps you remember how it came apart later when you are ready to reassemble. After all it's your first engine...Tedd