1954 Super 88 heater blower resistor

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Old August 15th, 2017, 06:57 PM
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1954 Super 88 heater blower resistor

EBay turned up a nos that was already sold. Not yet in dire need, but would like to get the search underway. Pn 3131533

thanks
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Old August 15th, 2017, 07:03 PM
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Try 2blu442 on this site , he had a 55 or 54 parts car(if anything is left) he might have what you need, worth a shot and a good guy to do business with.... Tedd
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Old August 16th, 2017, 02:33 AM
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Do you really need one, or is yours just not working right? I have the same resistor in my '56 and when I cleaned up the connections, it started working. I did not have to remove it.
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Old August 16th, 2017, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ignachuck
Do you really need one, or is yours just not working right? I have the same resistor in my '56 and when I cleaned up the connections, it started working. I did not have to remove it.
it's burnt and broken. One wire cooked off. It's in 3 pieces. Lol
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Old August 16th, 2017, 05:51 AM
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PM replied to. Yes I probably have it but need more details on where its located on the car and what it looks like.

John
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Old August 16th, 2017, 10:22 AM
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It's located inside the heater box and it looks like this: 54-55-56 are all the same.
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Resistor.jpg (2.64 MB, 65 views)
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Old August 16th, 2017, 10:49 AM
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It is accessible through a door on the heater box under the dash.
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Old August 16th, 2017, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
It is accessible through a door on the heater box under the dash.
"Accessible" is being kind, Glenn. It's there, and you can see it......
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Old August 16th, 2017, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ignachuck
"Accessible" is being kind, Glenn. It's there, and you can see it......
you can possibly pull the wire connectors free from the resistor. There are 2 screws holding it in that are on the top right of the heater box under the dash. I didn't look first, but the passenger air door should give you a view at least.
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Old August 17th, 2017, 12:52 PM
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John, what ever works for you but there are only about 6-8 screws that can be reached fairly easy( if you feel laying on your back up side down is easy anymore) and the whole air box will come off enough to expose the resistor . If corroded it may be a little difficult to remove the wires and screws without messing something up going through the little air box door. .. Your call.... Tedd
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Old August 17th, 2017, 01:37 PM
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Thank you guys, I should have come back to read this before working on the car. I pulled the engine side air box off, then realized the part needed was under the dash. I plan to dismantle the car anyway, so I started pulling the box out from under the dash. I believe I'm almost there, but today is going to be a scorcher so I'll wait until tomorrow morning to finish it off. When the handtool is too hot to pick up from laying in the sun its time to do something else for a while
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Old August 17th, 2017, 08:57 PM
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When I pulled the heater box out from under the dash on my 54 it was a pain. GM used some kind of black adhesive between the box and the firewall that makes it almost impossible to get loose. You may need a small crowbar to get it out.
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Old August 18th, 2017, 09:19 AM
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Phew, I thought "this won't take long to pull". I was a tad optimistic! But now its out. Actually I started to pry the wire forks off the piece under the dash and decided I might damage the part. So I pulled the wiring from the switch and engine compartment with the under dash box. Here's some pictures, and I do have a question. The center clip has burned the fiber piece a little. Will this part still function? Please check out the photos and let me know what you think. I don't want to ship a part to the OP that's not going to work as intended. And if you don't want it Robert that's fine, or you want to take some time and try to find a better part. I need to dismantle the car anyway. John








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Old August 18th, 2017, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
When I pulled the heater box out from under the dash on my 54 it was a pain. GM used some kind of black adhesive between the box and the firewall that makes it almost impossible to get loose. You may need a small crowbar to get it out.
re: redoldsman
yes, major overkill on the butyle... I've pulled both sides and under dash so far. Found an electronic heater bypass valve on ecklers so I'm going to go that route instead of the ronco valve.

anyway, my question on the 54 is it better to re build the dual action fuel pump? Not crazy about getting to the fuel bowl, but they are cool in a nostalgic way. All of my vacuum hoses and wiper washer hoses were missing or totally brittle so have no idea how they were routed. I'm electrifying the washer pump as well. I'm going for a driver, not a restored show car.

wishing more people with these cars were in the inland northwest lol

Robert.
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Old August 18th, 2017, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 2blu442
Phew, I thought "this won't take long to pull". I was a tad optimistic! But now its out. Actually I started to pry the wire forks off the piece under the dash and decided I might damage the part. So I pulled the wiring from the switch and engine compartment with the under dash box. Here's some pictures, and I do have a question. The center clip has burned the fiber piece a little. Will this part still function? Please check out the photos and let me know what you think. I don't want to ship a part to the OP that's not going to work as intended. And if you don't want it Robert that's fine, or you want to take some time and try to find a better part. I need to dismantle the car anyway. John








at least yours is in one piece. Mine was burnt all the way thru and even melted one of the connectors of the tab. Just saw your email.
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Old August 18th, 2017, 06:33 PM
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John I was going to say it looks better than most I have seen. Have you thought of putting 12 volts to it and see if it toast or not?..... Tedd
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Old August 19th, 2017, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Tedd Thompson
John I was going to say it looks better than most I have seen. Have you thought of putting 12 volts to it and see if it toast or not?..... Tedd
Good morning Tedd. I've already agreed on a price for this part and a couple more items. I'll be shipping the parts to Robert today so he should have them the beginning of next week. John
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Old August 19th, 2017, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 2blu442
Good morning Tedd. I've already agreed on a price for this part and a couple more items. I'll be shipping the parts to Robert today so he should have them the beginning of next week. John

which works out perfect as I'm taking the week off to fiddle with ol Janice 😁
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Old August 19th, 2017, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 54oldsmobile88RW
re: redoldsman
yes, major overkill on the butyle... I've pulled both sides and under dash so far. Found an electronic heater bypass valve on ecklers so I'm going to go that route instead of the ronco valve.

anyway, my question on the 54 is it better to re build the dual action fuel pump? Not crazy about getting to the fuel bowl, but they are cool in a nostalgic way. All of my vacuum hoses and wiper washer hoses were missing or totally brittle so have no idea how they were routed. I'm electrifying the washer pump as well. I'm going for a driver, not a restored show car.

wishing more people with these cars were in the inland northwest lol

Robert.
Robert a rebuild on the fuel pump isn't a bad job and I have no major problems getting to the fuel filter bowl other than bad legs and bending, you can also get to it pretty easy from bottom side if it's on a lift.

As for as vacuum wipers go I recommend that you replace the wiper motor with a electric Newport unit you will never regret getting rid of that vacuum system. Ask around and you will hear what I mean from others..... Tedd

https://newportwipers.com/
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Old August 19th, 2017, 08:46 AM
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Tedd speaks the truth (as he always does) about the vacuum wipers. I had them on my 54 thinking I was never going to get it out in the rain. Well I got caught at a couple out of town shows and that was enough. I have an electric fuel pump so mine ran straight off manifold vacuum. The Newport unit is a bolt in unit that requires no fabrication and you can use you original ***** on the switch so it looks original on the dash. Be careful since two different wiper motors were used on the 54. The mounting screws are straight across on one and offset on the other.
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 04:52 PM
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Little things

Originally Posted by redoldsman
Tedd speaks the truth (as he always does) about the vacuum wipers. I had them on my 54 thinking I was never going to get it out in the rain. Well I got caught at a couple out of town shows and that was enough. I have an electric fuel pump so mine ran straight off manifold vacuum. The Newport unit is a bolt in unit that requires no fabrication and you can use you original ***** on the switch so it looks original on the dash. Be careful since two different wiper motors were used on the 54. The mounting screws are straight across on one and offset on the other.
well, only one working hand this week so not much progress. But i did manage to scrape and clean the "new " parts so i could get the rust inhibitor on a few coats.
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 04:59 PM
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Vacuum wiper

Originally Posted by redoldsman
Tedd speaks the truth (as he always does) about the vacuum wipers. I had them on my 54 thinking I was never going to get it out in the rain. Well I got caught at a couple out of town shows and that was enough. I have an electric fuel pump so mine ran straight off manifold vacuum. The Newport unit is a bolt in unit that requires no fabrication and you can use you original ***** on the switch so it looks original on the dash. Be careful since two different wiper motors were used on the 54. The mounting screws are straight across on one and offset on the other.
on my thunderbird, i cleaned and lubed my vacuum motor and cables, and added an external vacuum pump. My friend did it on his 58 fairlane as well. Mine actually work great except hard acceleration and hills. And then i just flip the switch lol.
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