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So ive set my eyes upon a 1985 oldsmobile toronado, according to the seller, it has no problems whatsoever with the exception of the vinyl roof, or the lack thereof. Im just curious what you guys could tell me about this car and if there are any specific things i should look out for. Ill be heading out tomorrow morning to take a look at her. Ill throw up a few pictures of it in a moment.
Sure. The front drive shafts, being attached to the wheels that turn (as well as rotate), have Constant Velocity Joints (as opposed to U joints) at two places on each shaft, which are just past the tips. These tips are splined and plug into the transaxle under the engine and the backside of the front hub. They look like little black accordion boots because they are covered with a rubber boot that holds the grease. If these tear, they leak, and you might have to replace the whole shaft, which is more of a pain than expensive.
could you please explain what exactly the CV boots are?
If you have to ask this question, then you should not be relying on your own inspection skills to evaluate their condition. Spend $20 and take it to a mechanic for a lookover. It would be well worth it.
Could this be what you guys speak of? I would clarify myself as ignorant, not incompetent. I just dont know all the terms and stuff yet. I am only 19, so please forgive me. I am interested in learning all of this myself so any and all information is appreciated. Anywho, i would imagine these are in good condition?
Also, could someone inform me of what engine this is? The lady who sold it to me didnt know much about the car, it was her husbands and he passes away which is why she sold it. It handled an hour and a half drive on the highway quite nicely and did great around town.
Most would have had a 307 or some 80s years had 252 CI 4-barrel Buick V6s. Hard to say on engine based on color. Somebody could have got loose with a red rattle can or it could have been replaced. Look between intake and water pump and give us the numbers there, and we can tell you what's in it.
Far as I know, GM didn't pain any engines red or orange in 1985.
Looks to me like someone took a spray can to the valve covers and oil pan.
Question is, why was the engine apart enough that they were able to do that?
Now that I've seen that picture, I agree.
- Eric
According to the woman that sold it to me, her husband bought it from Florida because he needed a few body parts to restore another one that he was working on but liked it too much to tear it apart. He was in the middle of replacing the vinyl top before he died less than a month ago. Im assuming he probably tore the whole engine down and did that himself through restoring it. I picked it up off of her for only 650, so i cant complain. It runs so smooth i cant tell if its still running while stopped at a light. The only thing i could possibly say about how it runs is that it squeaks alittle when you start it, other than that its clean as a whistle. Alot of the hoses and doohickys have makeshift lables on them and are numbered, also assuming he did that when he was pulling it apart
And also, what can be done about the vinyl top and its roof rust? Im fairly sure its not a good idea to just slap another top on there with it the way it is.
I can't see anything you could do with that roof that doesn't involve Bondo, Gorilla Hair, and POR, but I think you could get a few years out of that car through extensive use of all three. If the appearance bothers you, then a new vinyl roof on top of the mess should make it pretty.
I can't see anything you could do with that roof that doesn't involve Bondo, Gorilla Hair, and POR, but I think you could get a few years out of that car through extensive use of all three. If the appearance bothers you, then a new vinyl roof on top of the mess should make it pretty.
- Eric
We dont have any jinx machines over here, but ill work on that soda haha
Would that end up causing more rust damage over time? Im assuming its no easy task to replace that roof..........
Looking at the top of the roof, it's not as bad as the trailing edge, and you may have enough metal to weld patches over the holes, and then grind them flat, but to me, that looks like a job for POR and fiberglass mat.
The trailing edge of the roof is a total loss. In 30 years, some collector might want to remove the rear window and interior and painstakingly rebuild that section, but, as I say, you'd be certifiably insane if you tried to do that to that car now, considering its minimal collector value.
That roof is completely destroyed. There is nothing to save.
You can do anything you want to it, with no loss whatsoever.
There is no way to replace it, for any person who is sane.
- Eric
Thank you for the advise, until i can get a replacement vinyl top, is there any suggestions you guys have had personal experience with on keeping the rain out? I saw you mentioned something like gorilla hair or PQR earlier?
I'd grind down to bare metal, or something that resembles bare metal, then paint with POR, then, at the same time, because paint and fiberglass will only adhere to POR during a brief time window while it's half-dry, I would stuff Gorilla Hair into those rust holes above the rear window, then apply fiberglass mat and resin over pretty much the whole bare roof area.
Next I'd skim coat with Bondo and grind to shape and smooth.
Next I'd paint with a sealer.
Finally, I'd install a new vinyl cover when you are able (won't be perfect, for instance, it won't be properly installed around the rear window).
Won't be pretty, but it's the best you'd be likely to get in your circumstances.
I'd grind down to bare metal, or something that resembles bare metal, then paint with POR, then, at the same time, because paint and fiberglass will only adhere to POR during a brief time window while it's half-dry, I would stuff Gorilla Hair into those rust holes above the rear window, then apply fiberglass mat and resin over pretty much the whole bare roof area.
Next I'd skim coat with Bondo and grind to shape and smooth.
Next I'd paint with a sealer.
Finally, I'd install a new vinyl cover when you are able (won't be perfect, for instance, it won't be properly installed around the rear window).
Won't be pretty, but it's the best you'd be likely to get in your circumstances.
- Eric
Thank you my friend, seems as if ive got a project on my hands. Also, while were on the toronado topic, the passenger side front speaker seems to be working, but very faintly at that. Its got some static coming through and seems muffled as well as all of the cig lighters dont work. Obviously i did check the fuses to no avail, but before i go taking stuff apart is there anything i should know?
Also, the driver side power seat doesnt respond though i can hear some sort of reaction when i click the controls in specific directions. I think its spinning freely but i would contribute that to the fact that i broke off a large chunk of plastic by barely applying pressure. I think its just old and worn
Last edited by Northern Custom Cruiser; August 23rd, 2016 at 08:38 AM.
Except for the condition of the roof, looks like a good car,
but to make the car useable, that roof is a big factor.
If you don't already own one, get a 4-1/2" grinder and
some cup brushes to clean that top down to relatively clean metal.
If that's bondo on it now, get some 36 grit grinding discs to clean that up first.
(Be sure to wear a dust mask and safety glasses. You don't want to breathe that stuff.)
Then follow MD's advice to repair the holes with fiberglass mat and resin.
Best to MIG some patches over the larger holes if you have access
to someone who can do this.
I'd offer five hundred to help offset the costs of repairing the roof
and the new vinyl top.
No one will be beating the lady's door down to buy that car.
Last edited by 67442nut; August 23rd, 2016 at 08:47 AM.
... the passenger side front speaker seems to be working, but very faintly at that. Its got some static coming through and seems muffled...
Could be a loose connection, could be a bad output transistor.
I'd get a hold of a factory service manual and have a look.
The audio on these cars was crap from the factory, though, so your best bet's to install aftermarket components and not worry too much about it.
Originally Posted by Northern Custom Cruiser
... all of the cig lighters dont work. Obviously i did check the fuses to no avail, but before i go taking stuff apart is there anything i should know?
Could be a wire (usually orange) burned or disconnected because something had burned - these cigarette lighters and their sockets were notorious for being involved with overheating wires and dead shorts.
Originally Posted by Northern Custom Cruiser
Also, the driver side power seat doesnt respond though i can hear some sort of reaction when i click the controls in specific directions. I think its spinning freely but i would contribute that to the fact that i broke off a large chunk of plastic by barely applying pressure. I think its just old and worn
Odds are there's a peculiar specialty relay under the seat (the clicking), and three motors connected to gears by cables.
Could be bad contacts on the relay, preventing current from getting to the motors,
could be that the motor is turning, but the cable connection is broken.
You may have to pull the seat to see.
Again, a manual would be very helpful, but in this case, the basics are probably identical to what can be found in the manual for your wagon.
Except for the condition of the roof, looks like a good car,
but to make the car useable, that roof is a big factor.
If you don't already own one, get a 4-1/2" grinder and
some cup brushes to clean that top down to relatively clean metal.
If that's bondo on it now, get some 36 grit grinding discs to clean that up first.
(Be sure to wear a dust mask and safety glasses. You don't want to breathe that stuff.)
Then follow MD's advice to repair the holes with fiberglass mat and resin.
Best to MIG some patches over the larger holes if you have access
to someone who can do this.
I'd offer five hundred to help offset the costs of repairing the roof
and the new vinyl top.
No one will be beating the lady's door down to buy that car.
Thanks for the response, correct me if im wrong but i dont think ive heard from you before on this forum. I actually already purchased the car, her original asking price was 950 but a guy in Louisville was trying to talk her down lower than 700 because he didnt want to travel that far so when i rang she offered it to me for 650 and i didnt feel right trying to scrap more off the top, after all it was her, now diseased, husbands project. I feel like i got a good deal. Anyone know where to find such a vinyl top? My searching in craigslist and ebay has proved no results worth following
One word of caution on this - it's a nice car to drive around & cut your teeth on but don't get carried away restoring it & putting money into it. The nicest one in the world is prob $6K
One word of caution on this - it's a nice car to drive around & cut your teeth on but don't get carried away restoring it & putting money into it. The nicest one in the world is prob $6K
Totally understood, i dont plan on dumping any vast amount of cash into it. Id just like to preserve it the best i can, you know? Plus id like to keep the weather on the outside of the car haha
We'd be impressed, but how do you know it's not 109,507? It looks much more like a 100,000 mile car than a 10,000 mile car. The engine is clean, true, but it doesn't take much effort to clean and detail it. The paint is faded, dents here and there, etc. And then there's that roof...
You could just chop it off, reinforce the frame, and make it a convertible...
You could just chop it off, reinforce the frame, and make it a convertible...
If i had that sort of skill/money maybe..
And i dont know that its not 109507, in fact id be extremely surprised if it were only 9507. I was hoping you guys could give me some ways to check its milage on whether it does in fact have 100000 miles.
It's a wear and tear thing. Even a car with only 10,000 miles on it can look pretty bad cosmetically after 30 years if left out in the weather or neglected in other ways. But basic wear parts should still be original. Parts underneath should be original and nearly new. The car should likely still have it original brake pads, radiator hoses, fan belts, things like that.
Again, if you really are interested in this car, find an independent mechanic you trust, spend the $20 or or whatever he'd charge to look it over, and tell him what you told us. The car has been represented to you as having less than 10,000 miles on it. In his professional opinion, is this true?
Again, if you really are interested in this car, find an independent mechanic you trust, spend the $20 or or whatever he'd charge to look it over, and tell him what you told us. The car has been represented to you as having less than 10,000 miles on it. In his professional opinion, is this true?
He bought the car, Jaunty. Shelled out 650 clams. He's said this several times.
He's not asking for purchase advice. It's waaaaay too late for that.
so when i rang she offered it to me for 650 and i didnt feel right trying to scrap more off the top, after all it was her, now diseased, husbands project
You're a nice guy, but, frankly, you should never take this into consideration. A car should be evaluated on its own merits. If this lady was your mother or something like that, maybe it would be different. But if she's a complete stranger, who cares what her story is. Business is business. Pay what the car is worth and only that. Sentiment and $1 will buy you a cup of coffee.
August 21st, 2016, 09:44 PM
