Finally a 442 4 me
#122
Was the shock factory in Dayton, Ohio?
So it was made in Ohio on the 23 of April, give or take, in 1970 shipped to Freemont, until 3rd week of July when it was mated to my car. So I am finding that there may be as much as 2 to 3 months lead time in parts to production for the satellite factories. Seems logical, it this the norm? What about the other plants?
So it was made in Ohio on the 23 of April, give or take, in 1970 shipped to Freemont, until 3rd week of July when it was mated to my car. So I am finding that there may be as much as 2 to 3 months lead time in parts to production for the satellite factories. Seems logical, it this the norm? What about the other plants?
#123
Hi Troy, I stopped by the shop today and took a snapshot of the sheet he has for the paint. I'm hoping it turns out close to the right shade of blue.
Last edited by tdhill01; January 13th, 2018 at 05:29 PM.
#124
Thanks Tom, I'll keep it for reference. Maybe I overlooked it, but do you know what brand of paint it is?
Are you sticking with a grey primer base, or red? Mine was red from the factory. I don't know that I am gong to insist that he uses red primer on mine. I think grey gives it a lighter tint.
I spoke to Eric Jensen on his as he said he was worried that the tint may not be right. If memory serves me correctly, I think he said when he was at nationals with his W30 that the twilight cars there all were slightly different. Perhaps, he can chime in.
Fathom and Twilight are the same mix from everything I have heard/seen.
Just for discussion purposes -
FantomWorks season 3 episode 8 "Becuase I Can " which I watched last week. They are reprinting a 70 Chevelle. Dan Shots says it's the ugliest blue he has ever seen. Of course, they show the worst pictures on the Internet. Then made his own special mix, which is too much of a purple tint to me. For a 70k price tag. That's TV.
Are you sticking with a grey primer base, or red? Mine was red from the factory. I don't know that I am gong to insist that he uses red primer on mine. I think grey gives it a lighter tint.
I spoke to Eric Jensen on his as he said he was worried that the tint may not be right. If memory serves me correctly, I think he said when he was at nationals with his W30 that the twilight cars there all were slightly different. Perhaps, he can chime in.
Fathom and Twilight are the same mix from everything I have heard/seen.
Just for discussion purposes -
FantomWorks season 3 episode 8 "Becuase I Can " which I watched last week. They are reprinting a 70 Chevelle. Dan Shots says it's the ugliest blue he has ever seen. Of course, they show the worst pictures on the Internet. Then made his own special mix, which is too much of a purple tint to me. For a 70k price tag. That's TV.
Last edited by Troys Toy 70; September 29th, 2016 at 09:25 AM.
#125
Troy, the name for the paint he issuing is call Axalta. He said it used to be DuPont but is now named this. As far as the red versus the gray he said that red was a mixture to work with the lacquer paint back then. He didn't go into any detail as to whether there was any other color than red nor how the primer color will or could change the paint color as he was with another customer and had toget back with him.
I'll look to stop by again and talk to him a bit more about the red versus a gray primer and get back to you.
I'll look to stop by again and talk to him a bit more about the red versus a gray primer and get back to you.
Last edited by tdhill01; January 13th, 2018 at 05:29 PM.
#126
FYI - "DuPont Coatings Reborn as Axalta. The founding father of the automotive paint business is being laid to rest. DuPont Performance Coatings, rooted in the dawn of the Automobile Age, now sports a new name after the completion of its $4.9 billion sale to The Carlyle Group on Feb. 1, the companies announced Monday (Feb. 4 2013)" http://www.paintsquare.com/news/?fus...n=view&id=9105
Last edited by tdhill01; September 29th, 2016 at 10:19 AM. Reason: added reference site
#127
Troy, the name for the paint he issuing is call Axalta. He said it used to be DuPont but is now named this. As far as the red versus the gray he said that red was a mixture to work with the lacquer paint back then. He didn't go into any detail as to whether there was any other color than red nor how the primer color will or could change the paint color as he was with another customer and had toget back with him.
I'll look to stop by again and talk to him a bit more about the red versus a gray primer and get back to you.
I'll look to stop by again and talk to him a bit more about the red versus a gray primer and get back to you.
Don't get me wrong, I am not saying anything is wrong with the grey primer, just couriosity asking questions. I think grey is used as the primary goto now. I know everything I saw at the body shop my car is in, was grey primer if no color was on it. I believe it does have a slight effect on the color, but probably is negligible unless they are side by side. Then you would need the same mix, paint company and conditions to know for sure. Too many variables for true comparisons.
In the end, I am just trying to note what others do, and possibly follow suit.
Oh and I changed the earlier post, it was a 70 Chevelle and not a 79.
#131
Looks great Troy, your'e definitely making me jealous with your project. Are you having the body shop paint the support and the other parts you had sandblasted or will you take that project on yourself.
#132
Thanks Tom,
I was going to paint it on my own, but I found a place to powder coat it relatively inexpensively. So, I thought I would give it a try. Plus with snow on the ground now, my painting window is limited, as my garage is in the house and has both the gas furnace and water heater.
I was going to paint it on my own, but I found a place to powder coat it relatively inexpensively. So, I thought I would give it a try. Plus with snow on the ground now, my painting window is limited, as my garage is in the house and has both the gas furnace and water heater.
#133
Great, I'll be watching for the updates as they come. I've been a bit lazy on my end and need to get back in gear to start putting my car back together. Seeing your updates and Rick's updates should give me the push/incentive I need.
#134
I understand, I think that is one of the biggest benefits to this site. It always seems there are three of four members here going through the "process" at the same time, and it keeps the other ones inspired.
So, keep up the good work!
So, keep up the good work!
#135
Events of this week.
As you all already know, sandblasted parts done on Monday.
On Wednesday, I get the call from the powder coater and powder coating is done. I went to pick it up, and here is the results.
As you all already know, sandblasted parts done on Monday.
On Wednesday, I get the call from the powder coater and powder coating is done. I went to pick it up, and here is the results.
#138
One thing I will say, and a lesson learned. Always pay close attention to parts before powder coating.
I missed some of her battle scars. I didnt see it before the sandblasting, all the time I looked at it in the garage when it was upside down. I didn't see this at the sandblasters, must have been to excited.
It is what it is now. It bottom out a couple times hard.
I missed some of her battle scars. I didnt see it before the sandblasting, all the time I looked at it in the garage when it was upside down. I didn't see this at the sandblasters, must have been to excited.
It is what it is now. It bottom out a couple times hard.
#139
#140
Looking good Troy.
500 bucks for all that is a good deal. I paid $150 just to have my core support dipped/stripped.
Looking forward to seeing the assembly!
BTW, the scars on the frame add character.
500 bucks for all that is a good deal. I paid $150 just to have my core support dipped/stripped.
Looking forward to seeing the assembly!
BTW, the scars on the frame add character.
#142
It's being built to be driven, and not a 100% factory correct; but I must admit that I am torn just a little. I would rather see that area nice and smooth. However, it is part of her heritage/ character.
I'm just thinking with the hood up and her setting there rumbling, that will be the last thing on the casual observer mind.😉🙂
I'm just thinking with the hood up and her setting there rumbling, that will be the last thing on the casual observer mind.😉🙂
#143
It's being built to be driven, and not a 100% factory correct; but I must admit that I am torn just a little. I would rather see that area nice and smooth. However, it is part of her heritage/ character.
I'm just thinking with the hood up and her setting there rumbling, that will be the last thing on the casual observer mind.😉🙂
I'm just thinking with the hood up and her setting there rumbling, that will be the last thing on the casual observer mind.😉🙂
I have a new respect for guys on this site that have put together concourse level cars. It's very difficult and time consuming.
Keep the updates and pics coming!
#144
Amen,on the respect for the concourse/ 100% factory correct efforts. I would drive myself nuts trying to do that. (Of course the Mrs already says I'm nuts, and that was before the build.) In the end, I respect and appreciate the efforts on those cars, and love to see them. However, I know I would never really enjoy it that way.
I just want one that if I pull up to one of those at a car show, mine looks like it belongs next to it.
Rick- did you ever get your push rod problem figured out?
I just want one that if I pull up to one of those at a car show, mine looks like it belongs next to it.
Rick- did you ever get your push rod problem figured out?
#145
Hate to say it but the rockers were over tightened. Put a new set of push rods in and everything seems to be good. I don't think there was any damage to the cam. I've had the car on the road a few times and it runs strong. Having some issues with the carb leaking down so we need to take a look at that.
#146
Good deal. Glad to hear it wasn't major. At least you are to the point you can drive it some. I'm soo jealous.
The 455 for mine may come to life before end of year. I am going to have it Dyno'd. I can't wait to hear it fire up.
The 455 for mine may come to life before end of year. I am going to have it Dyno'd. I can't wait to hear it fire up.
#150
I think the cool part is that it represents the beginning of the assembly process. I actually thought about taking chalk and marking the inside of the frame with the date.
Plus you get to put the heart and soul into the project. I can see it might have to run a few times as chassis, just to hear it. I think I know someone else that ran it that way. 😉
Plus you get to put the heart and soul into the project. I can see it might have to run a few times as chassis, just to hear it. I think I know someone else that ran it that way. 😉
#151
Well was able to find some time in the garage today. I had planned to spend most of the day in the garage, but our aerator pump on the septic tank quite working, and I had to deliver the old pump to a retired gentleman to rebuild it.
I wanted to get the front LCAs on before I turned the frame right side up. I spent more time digging for a couple of small parts that I thought I had properly labeled and boxed. The renegade little pieces finally made their appearance. I also went ahead and hung the sway bar loosely to get it up out of the way, where it wasn't getting kicked around.
I wanted to get the front LCAs on before I turned the frame right side up. I spent more time digging for a couple of small parts that I thought I had properly labeled and boxed. The renegade little pieces finally made their appearance. I also went ahead and hung the sway bar loosely to get it up out of the way, where it wasn't getting kicked around.
#152
Keep in mind, I painted the LCAs about 2 1/2 yeas ago on the Cutlass project I had originally started before it became the parts car for the 442
Well the picture didn't post right I will try a seperate post.
Well the picture didn't post right I will try a seperate post.
Last edited by Troys Toy 70; December 3rd, 2016 at 06:23 PM.
#153
I highly recommend it. If you find a leak or something that needs a little attention, it is MUCH easier to fix it at that time. This is when I found that I needed a baffle under my intake. It was much nicer pulling the intake with the engine only on a chassis.
Last edited by jensenracing77; December 3rd, 2016 at 06:23 PM.
#154
Following your lead Eric. I think you said once something like when you turned the key, you wanted it ready to go.
If I remember right, you went with the Inline tube exhaust and were happy with it. Are you still happy with it after driving your W30 more this summer?
Pictures still won't post, will need to try it later.
If I remember right, you went with the Inline tube exhaust and were happy with it. Are you still happy with it after driving your W30 more this summer?
Pictures still won't post, will need to try it later.
#155
Following your lead Eric. I think you said once something like when you turned the key, you wanted it ready to go.
If I remember right, you went with the Inline tube exhaust and were happy with it. Are you still happy with it after driving your W30 more this summer?
Pictures still won't post, will need to try it later.
If I remember right, you went with the Inline tube exhaust and were happy with it. Are you still happy with it after driving your W30 more this summer?
Pictures still won't post, will need to try it later.
Other than the water pump issue I had (one of the parts i could not test) I had no other issues after it was together. Not even a squeak or rattle.
Last edited by jensenracing77; December 3rd, 2016 at 06:45 PM.