Arrowstorm

Howdy guys. I finally got around to getting back in the engine bay of my 72 Vista Cruiser to address a broken oil dipstick tube. I had previously tried to JB weld it back in place, but it broke off at the flange and the epoxy just didn't work AT ALL. In fact, luckily, none of it is stuck to the block or anything like that.

First, I plan on trying to tap a screw into the remainder of the old dipstick tube because I REALLY do not want to have to drop the oil pan. I have heard a few people do have success with this. But how do I do it? Literally, try to find a screw that is slightly wider in diameter and sort of screw it in and yank on it? Maybe employ the use of a slide hammer?

Secondly, I dropped the starter and disconnected the exhaust pipe to pull the hedders out and noticed that my brand new exhaust gaskets were shot. The outer edge of the gaskets were alright, nice and solid, but the middle two holes for the 3 and 5 exhaust banks were like swiss cheese and burnt. What could be causing this? I tightened the hedders down pretty tight last time I replaced the gaskets due to an exhaust leak. But last time, the gaskets had a break in almost the exact same spot.

Could that be just a bad gasket, or perhaps a bad choice in manufacturer? I usually go with Fel Pro.

And lastly... quick question. A new starter for this car is only $46. Should I just go ahead and replace it while I have the old one out? No telling how old it is, and there's really nothing wrong with it, except MAYBE some slow starts every now and then. What's your thoughts on replacing a part "just because you can"?

Thanks,

Buz

TripDeuces

I've heard of using the screw method but another idea is to use a stiff metal rod with either a small bend at the end or a notch like a knitting needle on the end along with a slide hammer. That way you are grabbing the bottom of the tube and pulling it up.

Arrowstorm

I thought about that, too. However, when this first happened, I tried with a metal wire to confirm that I could even get to the end of the tube and couldn't really feel the edge.

I confess, though, that I was half-assing it because I was hoping to just JB weld the thing and be done with it. THIS time, however, the exhaust is off and I have relatively free access to the block, so I'll perhaps try that method first.

Thanks!

joe_padavano

The broken dipstick tube is all too common. I use a slide hammer. Takes about 30 seconds. Just had to do this on a friend's 70 Supreme a couple of months ago.

I made an adapter for the slide hammer that is simply two bolts welded head-to-head. One bolt screws into the end of the slide hammer, the other is a large sheet metal screw that threads tightly into the stub of the dipstick tube. Screw it into place and a couple whacks with the slide hammer and you're good to go. Epoxy will NEVER stick with all the oil and paint there.

Arrowstorm

Yeah buddy! Lol. Learned that first hand!

distributorguy

The burned exhaust gasket is a spot that's not clamping tight - from a warped manifold. You need to get the manifold repaired in order to keep it sealed up.

You can also coat a tap with grease and tap threads into the dipstick tube. The grease will hold the shavings if you're careful, and it applies less force than forcing a screw into the tube. This should make removal (via the slide hammer method) even easier.

Arrowstorm

The hedders are only 2 years old. How can they be warped? It's not a manifold. Is there a way to maybe double up on gaskets or see if they make a thicker gasket?

I have the hedder off, so I'll run a straight edge on it to see what's up, anyway.

joe_padavano

What brand of headers? They were likely warped from the factory. Run a straight edge across the sealing surfaces. If it's not flat, no amount of gaskets will help. File it flat.

Arrowstorm

They are Hedman shorty headers. But yeah, I'll run a straight edge on it today and see what I can do. The other side is perfectly fine.

distributorguy

Hedman is owned by Holley, who also owns a couple other brands. They are notoriously warped when new, from the welding process. Just went through that a couple months ago. A local machine shop with a large (semi-precision) belt sander quickly surfaced them for me. Don't assume any mass manufactured new parts are made properly.

Arrowstorm

Right. So... I was able to use my tap and die set to tap into the old tube where it snapped off at the block. With a little patience, I got a thread down about an inch and a half and got s screw down in there. I didn't have a slide hammer, so with a picklefork and a 2lb hammer, I lightly tapped the underside of the head of the screw and the old tube came out no problem! I was rather proud of myself.

Put a straight edge on the header and it is definitely NOT true. My uncle is a carpenter and lives right next door and he said I can use his bench sander to true up the mating surface on the headers, so that should be right as rain as well.

No opinions on getting a new starter though, just for the hell of it?

Thanks!

Buz

joe_padavano

I prefer to handle that 800 lb starter as little as possible, so whenever I have one out, I rebuild it. Don't know if I'd trust a cheapo rebuilt. I just replace brushes, starter drive, and solenoid when it's out. You may also want to consider one of the Moroso quick disconnect starter harnesses to simplify it the next time.

distributorguy

Rebuilt starters are suspect at times. New starters that are that cheap are even more suspect. Use what you have, if its working. Joe's wiring adapter (pictured) makes life SO much easier!

Arrowstorm

Boy! Getting that dipstick to fit into the block with headers in place is really tricky, huh?!?! Jeeez. Don't suppose there are any pointers out there other than "you just gotta finagle it and work around it", is there?

I did, though. With much difficulty. After careful positioning, repositioning, dropping and picking back up and positioning again, I was able to angle it just right, tap on the end of the tube with a hammer, angle it just right again, and it went right in.

I was able to use my uncle's belt sander to sand the mating surface of the headers true. I can't wait to fire it up to see if it worked!

I've decided to just re-install my old starter since there was nothing really wrong with it. I just cleaned it up with some brake cleaner. I was thinking of hitting the cables with some cleaner as well before I put it back. That couldn't hurt anything, could it?

Thanks,

Buz

distributorguy

That'd only hurt if the starter was full of brake cleaner when you fired it up. It evaporates quickly, and leaves virtually no residue, so its a common choice in my shop!

I prefer the metal Fel-Pro exhaust gaskets with headers - they do a decent job and are a little forgiving. Thanks to a tip from Joe P, I'll now add a dab of Walker Acousti/seal to those:
https://www.amazon.com/Walker-35959-...ct_top?ie=UTF8