Engine Identification help

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Old June 30th, 2016, 08:03 AM
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Engine Identification help

I have a customer that brought us a 1968 442 to add power steering. All the brackets he's gotten have been wrong. During my investigation, I wanted to check numbers on the block and cylinder heads. The block is a 396026G, which does come back to a 400. The cylinder heads is where I'm really having trouble. They are stamped 394648 which I could not find listed on the 442.com page. I don't think these are the orignial heads. I would hope that if I can properly identify the heads, than I could potentially get the proper brackets and so on. Thank you in advance for reading and helping.
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Old June 30th, 2016, 08:31 AM
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Easiest to look for large letter on heads for ID. Look near # one spark plug just to the left for letter. Stock heads would be C heads.
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Old June 30th, 2016, 08:53 AM
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Thank you for the quick reply. Confirmed these are "C" heads. Just wondering why these casting numbers don't show up on any chart.
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Old June 30th, 2016, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott183
The cylinder heads is where I'm really having trouble. They are stamped 394648
That is because you are misreading the number. 394548
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Old June 30th, 2016, 09:58 AM
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The number for the heads is actually 394548. Sometimes those casting numbers are hard to read. The "C" head was used on most '67 through '69 big blocks. In addition to brackets, adding power steering may affect the pulley situation as well.


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Old June 30th, 2016, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott183
I have a customer that brought us a 1968 442 to add power steering. All the brackets he's gotten have been wrong.



"Wrong" how? The PS pump brackets are petty much identical on every Olds motor from 1968-1990. Every single Olds V8 block from 1964-1990 will accept these PS pump brackets with no issue.

Usually problems are caused by not correctly installing the spacers as shown in the factory drawings.

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Old June 30th, 2016, 10:33 AM
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Maybe my eyes are junk??
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Old June 30th, 2016, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott183
Maybe my eyes are junk??
That really is a "5". If you were to remove the valve cover and wire brush off the paint and crud, you'd see it. This is a common problem, as the digits of the casting numbers are frequently flawed due to minor dings in the casting sand.

For future reference, when comparing Olds casting numbers to a known list, also check numbers that are close in shape - "5" instead of "6", "3" as well as "8', etc. There are only a certain number of head casting numbers and the chance that you have discovered a previously unknown casting after 50 years is not particularly credible.
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Old June 30th, 2016, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
That really is a "5". If you were to remove the valve cover and wire brush off the paint and crud, you'd see it. This is a common problem, as the digits of the casting numbers are frequently flawed due to minor dings in the casting sand.

For future reference, when comparing Olds casting numbers to a known list, also check numbers that are close in shape - "5" instead of "6", "3" as well as "8', etc. There are only a certain number of head casting numbers and the chance that you have discovered a previously unknown casting after 50 years is not particularly credible.
Thank you for the clarification. I'm sure you can see how that would appear as a "6". Thank you for the diagram also. I can see how the front bracket mounts on the wp and timing cover instead of the cylinder head. I can also see how side bracket mounts to the front bracket and exhaust manifold. I do have one other bracket, that I can not find in that picture (on the right in my picture).
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Old June 30th, 2016, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott183
I can also see how side bracket mounts to the front bracket and exhaust manifold. I do have one other bracket, that I can not find in that picture (on the right in my picture).
That is P/N 398668 (or is that a 3? ) in the upper LH view in the drawing that I posted above. Goes to the bottom rear of the pump and bolts to the side of the block. Be SURE to use the spacers shown on the drawing. I don't see any spacers in your photo.
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Old June 30th, 2016, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
That is P/N 398668 (or is that a 3? ) in the upper LH view in the drawing that I posted above. Goes to the bottom rear of the pump and bolts to the side of the block. Be SURE to use the spacers shown on the drawing. I don't see any spacers in your photo.
Mr. Joe P "you are the man". I do not have the spacers, but found your post with the different sizes listed "Rocket Science". I guess I'll have to make them or search. I am still a bit unclear concerning the washer size used between the top slide and bracket (555698). Need to make sure I have adequate clearance so the bracket does not contact the reservoir. I also need to locate the proper studs coming off the water pump and timing cover, there are just bolts there right now.
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Last edited by Scott183; June 30th, 2016 at 12:12 PM.
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Old June 30th, 2016, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott183
Mr. Joe P "you are the man". I do not have the spacers, but found your post with the different sizes listed "Rocket Science". I guess I'll have to make them or search. I am still a bit unclear concerning the washer size used between the top slide and bracket (555698). Need to make sure I have adequate clearance so the bracket does not contact the reservoir. I also need to locate the proper studs coming off the water pump and timing cover, there are just bolts there right now.


The complete kit is about $30 from Inline Tube, under P/N 14461.
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Old June 30th, 2016, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano


The complete kit is about $30 from Inline Tube, under P/N 14461.
Absolutely awesome. Can't thank you enough! I went back to my last post and added a picture of the back of the pump mounted. Does all that look good to you? Customer got the pats from PerformanceOnline. I emailed them concerning part numbers and fit, but no reply.
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Old July 1st, 2016, 07:11 AM
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Scott,

FYI, the pump you have will work, but it is not optically correct if the customer cares about that. The correct pump reservoir looks like this for a 1968:

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Old July 1st, 2016, 09:59 AM
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You need a washer or 2 on your adjuster bolt.


Rocket Science is me, I added notes regarding the size of the spacers, in case folks have to make them or figure out which is what.


That looks like a real nice comprehensive kit there, maybe the bubes are finally getting their kit together. Dirt cheap too. I have only greasy used parts.


Oh, and the reservoir in JP's pic is shaped right but should be black. Probably 37.18436572% semi flat gloss to be precise. I never got beyond the difference between gloss, flat, and in-between.
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Old July 1st, 2016, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Octania
You need a washer or 2 on your adjuster bolt.


Rocket Science is me, I added notes regarding the size of the spacers, in case folks have to make them or figure out which is what.


That looks like a real nice comprehensive kit there, maybe the bubes are finally getting their kit together. Dirt cheap too. I have only greasy used parts.


Oh, and the reservoir in JP's pic is shaped right but should be black. Probably 37.18436572% semi flat gloss to be precise. I never got beyond the difference between gloss, flat, and in-between.
Thank you sir. The customer has finally agreed to stop getting involved and let me get this done for him. I will find out if he has the correct pump as Joe pictured and go from there. Thanks again and have a great holiday weekend!
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Old July 20th, 2016, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Scott,

FYI, the pump you have will work, but it is not optically correct if the customer cares about that. The correct pump reservoir looks like this for a 1968:

Any idea where I can find one of these? All the bracketry worked out great thanks to the help I received. Here is the problem
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Last edited by Scott183; July 20th, 2016 at 07:37 AM.
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Old July 20th, 2016, 08:35 AM
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Just an update, I did find one online. P/N 20-6100 (Cardone), for anyone looking.
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